transmission tops

[Little Al]

Really gearing (pun intended, lol) up here to get some parts

I have a ratchet top tranny in excellent condition for my '54. I would like to go to tank shift (I think). A good buy (if the price stays low enough) is ending tomorrow on the correct lid but I was looking in the parts manual and it seems like a lot of stuff will have to be changed and I'm gun shy to take the plunge so I have a few questions:

1) are the tank shift tranny internals available (V-Twin, other aftermarket sources)?

2) shift drum, forks, etc. that need to be swapped, if they are available, a major tranny job or basic? I have a fear of splitting cases and opening trannys, lol

3) if the parts can be had easily, and it's not a major opening up of the entire tranny, can I count on you guys to guide me through it?

tranny is currently sitting on my kitchen table but I've been afraid to open her up!

Thanks!

[CraigArizona85248]

Little Al,

The only thing you should need to convert your transmission for hand shift is a completed hand shift transmission top.  By complete, I mean you need the top, the shifter drum, the lever the linkage attaches too, etc.  You can use your existing shifter forks and all other transmission pieces.  Changing out the top is not that difficult.  It helps to have the tool to align the sifter forks, but I've seen guys do the job without the tool.  I'm sure the knowlege base here can help you through the swap if you get stuck.

-Craig

[4DWUDS]

Don't forget you will need the foot clutch pedal and linkage. The shift forks can be adjusted without the tool (been there, done that), it is a lot easier with it though. Don't forget to remember which hole the tranny breather screw came out of.

[CraigArizona85248]

The breather screw goes in the hole circled in green in the photo.  If you already have a vent in your transmission (circled in red in the picture), you don't need the breather screw and you can use just a regular 1/4x24 screw.

[Little Al]

Well now I think I might actually understand. The shift drum (which I knew by the parts manual is different) sits inside the top, not the tranny box itself. so if I bought the below top on eBay I'd still require all the other parts right? Those are the parts I'm concerned about finding.

[4DWUDS]

Don't want to rain on your parade but I think it will be harder to find and more $$$ for all the little parts to make the top complete rather than finding a complete top to start with. That is a good clean top you got, I don't see any problems with it (broken corners,cracks, clutch arm wear spots)other than needing more stuff to go with it.

[Little Al]

Thanks, i needed that, like I'm not already winter blued enough! lol

I think you might be right, I was looking in the parts manual and I think I'd need to find the shifter drum & rod the shifter gear & spring and the shift lever and all the fastners and stuff to install it all into the top. might be the search of a lifetime finding all thos original parts if they ain't repo available, although it looks like NOSParts has it all.

well it's gonna be a freezing Friday night so I can plop myself on the couch and cross reference everything and see if everything is available and the cost, set a limit on what I'll spend on the top on eBay and be ready to bid or not. the auction ends saturday.

Thanks guys for the advice. I'll let you know how it works out.

btw, anyone have an idea what a used complete top goes for so I can have an idea of a limit?

[4DWUDS]

I sold 2 of them I had last year and IIRC they went for around $100 a piece. Complete and in fair condition. One had a broken corner, One had a cracked screw hole. Look for one that's broke but has the parts you need.

[JamLazyAss]

Don't want to rain on your parade but I think it will be harder to find and more $$$ for all the little parts to make the top complete rather than finding a complete top to start with. That is a good clean top you got, I don't see any problems with it (broken corners,cracks, clutch arm wear spots)other than needing more stuff to go with it.

Al,
This is 100% the correct way to go.
You'll save money, time, and headaches.
4DWUDS (By the way what does that stand for??) is right on target with this.
Good luck!

[4DWUDS]

JamLazy, I spend a lot of time camping WOD (way out der) so,
4= For
D= The
WUDS= Woods
A little ebonics helps. I had a personalized plate also for my jeep, that's now on my camper, Yea getting a little soft in my later years.

Did ya get the key bracket yet ?

Now back to your regulary scheduled programming.

[JamLazyAss]

"A little ebonics helps."   

Yep, got the bracket. It was about 3 degrees out the day it came.
If it could talk, it would have asked to go back I'm sure.
My son saw it and wants to arm wrestle me for it.

Lots of ice flowing past the house on the river.
Can't imagine how the folks felt in the Hudson yesterday.

Anyhow, there's no problem keeping the beer cold. When are ya stopping? Bring Mr CraigArizona with ya too.
Thanks again,
See ya...

[Pzokes]

That top that you posted the picture of is the style that you want for your year bike:  Round top with no neutral light.

[Little Al]

it's still pretty cheap on eBay. if i can get it for a song I'll take it then eventually find a bad top (cracked, broken, whatever) for the guts. worst case I'll have an extra, as long as it's cheap!

I checked out NOSParts, they do have everything I need but all those parts cost a bit over $250, the drum alone was $150

I'll see what happens, ends Saturday and currently only $19

[Erichill]

Little Al, If yoy are not trying to be 100% original you can still do tank shift with ratchet top.  Your gate on the tank would need to be smooth (not notched), and the throw may be a little longer. I have this on my '48, and it easy to shift, and finding neutral has not been a problem for me. Though I still always have foot on clutch at lights.
I made my gate from scratch, but you could cut out the top of an existing gate, and braze in a new top with just one long slot for linkage. 
Eric

[Little Al]

well, against the good advice I received here (so I'm stubborn, lol) I bought the tranny top off eBay. Got it cheap so no big deal. It has the everything except the drum and drum shaft.

I saw, but missed, an eBay sale for a cracked top with a good drum. I emailed the seller to ask if he'd relist since it didn't sell and what the part numbers were and I'm confused. He gave me a top number of 34809-52 and a drum (cam) number of 34016-52. I can find NO reference to these numbers anywhere. he says their stamped right into the cam and cast into the top.
my parts book (49-57) shows the cam as 34010-36 and top as 34804-36

can anyone confirm for me that these are valid numbers and they'll fit my '54 tranny?

I'd like to use the drum and shaft only in the top I already bought, which is correct for my year, without the neutral switch as Pzokes pointed out.

[Pynzo]

Check those numbers carefully cause some of these drums are for 3 speed with reverse bikes! -52 numbers are most likely ratchet lid drum and shafts.

[Pynzo]

I dug through my stash and came up with three handshift lids.
1 is complete and marked 33-35 inside and has a drum marked 2243-36,
2 of them are bare and marked 33-49 on the outer back edge. one of theses two is NOS and has 34804-36 written on inside.
I know the drum # 2243-36 is a 4 speed cause I ran a jockey shift using this top for a couple of years.
I have a complete set of guts with cam #2243-36 available- make me a good offer and it's yours!
Depending on the shift gate used on your tank, the shift lever on the lid will have to point up or down.
34010-36 is the new part # for 2243-36 four speed shifter cam.
34011-39 is the new part # for 2243-39 three speed and reverse shifter cam.

[Little Al]

Pynzo,

you're a little late, already bought a cracked top with the confirmed correct drum.

I now (will) have everything I need for the tranny.

on a mission now for the front end...