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Checking Axle/Bearing End Play

Started by flhs90, January 19, 2009, 06:10:33 AM

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flhs90

I followed the Service Manual when installing new tires on a 1990 FLHS and wondered other than the correct torque specs and following procedures outlined in the manual is there and easy way to check end play without the dial guage pictured in the manual?
Bearings and races were checked, looked smooth as new, upon inspection,  repacked.
Just wanting to be on the safe side of things.
:beer:
1980 FLH80, 1990 FLHS, 2006 FLSTS<br />Western Oregon

Norton Commando

In order to be, as you say: "..on the safe side of things" you really need a dial indicator. If you haven't changed bearings or spacers, the end-play is the same as it was before you repalced the tire.   

You can get a rough indication of end play by simply pushing/pulling the wheel after torquing the axle. No movement could indicate that clearance is too tight.
Remember, you can sleep in your car, but you can't drive your house.

JohnS_Rosamond

In order to check end play, the bearings have to be clean and dry (not greased), and you have to have the wheel on something that imitates installation (i.e., on an axle with spacers installed and the axle nut tight.)  I put the axle in a vise and have some extra spacers that allow me to tighten up the axle nut.  I put the axle in 90° to the vise.  Put spacers on the axle, put the wheel on (with disc brake side facing down), wheel must have the bearings and inner wheel spacer installed, put more spacers on, put on and tighten the axle nut.  Now put your hands in between the space between the vise top and the brake disc.  As you make a fist, or pull up, you'll get a sense of how much movement is present.  A dial gauge is not a "must", but if you don't have a sense of what 0.005 feels like, then you really gotta have a dial gauge.  I would be willing to bet that you're wheel is probably fine.  Very few people mess with the shim pack in the wheel (well except for the time that I caught my father adding shims to the pack) - he was trying to add a few to "tighten it up".  But we got that worked out.
John S,

stroker800

  I use a set of tapered cones that are threaded inside....i assemble with threaded rod with points facing in to center of hub..Tighten snug ,,then I measure end play with an indicator....As stated earlier no grease,,,this is the easiest trick I have picked up...of course you need shims on hand..
Dave

flhs90

Norton 850, John S., Dave:

Thanks for the great information and explanation on how I can check in play.
This time we did not replace bearings or races. Upon inspection they were found to be "smooth" as new ; meaning bearings and races.
Cleaned and repacked; good to go until next tire change or next 10,000 miles.
This ol FLHS 1990 has turned out to be a terrific ride. We are getting some mid day temps in the middle 50's inland here in Western Oregon and 60 along the coastline. Makes for excellent riding conditions until we really do warm up.
However morning temps are in the low 30's ; icy roads in shady corners.

You guys have a great day. I learned a lot and that keeps me safe and enjoying the Harley.
1980 FLH80, 1990 FLHS, 2006 FLSTS<br />Western Oregon