Screwed up Removing Inner Cam Bearing

[tinkerman]

Hey Folks,

Just started to put the top end back together on my evo and when I was pulling the cam bearing I never had the puller in far enough (should have rotated the crank a bit and got the crank pin out of the way)and chipped the inner lip of the bearing.  Man am I pissed with myself.

Managed to find most of it but likley have half a doz small peices about the size of a comma (,) in the crankcase. Just wanted to check here before I pulled the engine to split the cases if I had any alternatives. It's just a time thing really as I have had the primary drive completely off before so I am thinking I would rather take it apart and flush evrything out rather than worry about it.

Do I need any special tools to split the cases or is it fairly straight forward.

I'll just keep kicking myself in the ass until I get  few replies back.


Tinkerman

[lasmittys1]

 You will only need to pull the gear side of the case from the crank.I don't think you will need to remove the pinion gear. I do think you will need to remove the oil pump drive gear, on the oil pump shaft.

[ClassicRider2002]

I am not sure if you have a "digital" camera or not.....but this could be a really educational "THREAD" if you supplied photos with what is going on....just an idea.....

Now you are talking about the B138 needle bearing right that sits in the cam case....that the end of the cam shaft goes into, and why should you "......have rotated the crank a bit and got the crank pin out of the way....."? I am a bit confused by that.....your case should have been empty and you simply used a tool to pull the bearing out.....

Regards,

"Classic"

[tinkerman]

Yup, the B-138 Bearing. I was replacing it as part of the top end rebuild. In hindsight when I put the puller into the bearing it wasn't in far enough and the lip on one of the fingers of the puller caught the edge of the bearing when I expanded it instead of going in behind it.

When I removed it and looked into the case through the torrington bearing, there was the crank pin in plain view. I believe this stopped the puller from going into the case as far as it needed to. (using a bearing removal tool from George's Garage) I rotated the crank 30 degrees or so which moved the crank pin out of the way and then there was lots of room. Put the puller in and pulled the bearing no problem.

Then when I inspected it I realized I had chipped the bearing on the first attempt. Bascially created another half days work for myself assuming that I need to pull the crankcase out of the frame and that I don't need anything in the way of special tools to do this.

What kind of photos would you like... of the bearing? the damage would be difficult to see as it is quite small. Or of the crank pin through the bearing

Regards,

Tinkerman

[bigpete1]

it has to come out of frame to split cases ,you can eith take pinion gear off or take oil pump drive gear off to get case apart you do not need to take sprocketshaft side off flywheels to cleanout if you want to take  sprocketshaft side off you will have to use apress or there i a tool that bolts on to area where the 4 bolts for primary are and pushes sprocket shaft out ,hope this helps pete   

[tinkerman]

Is there a gasget between the case halves or just a sealent?


Tink

[bigpete1]

just sealant ,pete

[Norton Commando]

Perhaps you could pour a bit of solvent into the crank case, slosh it around and dump it out? This would save you from having to split the cases, which can be a real pan in the arse.

[86fxwg]

Iv seen this done before, weather i agree with it is debatable.A buddy did the same thing you did.He asked me what i thought and he being a cheap ass i told him he could drill a 1/8 hole in the right case half, pipe tap it and flush it thru the bearing hole.This was 8 years ago and 60.000 miles, still Fine.


     Dave

[tinkerman]

Right on guys,

I gave it a break for the day as I was fed up with such a silly F%&Kup. That cam bearing housing is pretty brittle stuff like most bearings and I expect the bit I am missing is in peices. I did think about flushing the crankcases but without visually checking them out there is know way of knowing if it is all out.

For peice of mind I am going to strip the damn thing down and split the cases. The bits if they are in there have to be stuck to the right flywheel or duwn in the right hand half of the sump so I will make a point of not spreading them all over the place by keeping the right side of the cases tipped down when I get it out of the frame.

I will take one last look with a big magnet on the shop floor and bench before I start to stip her down bit I am pretty sure it is in there. Oh well, all in the learning curve I guess , at least I will get to know the bottom end of the engine... not that I see any value in that at the moment.

The only bright thing in all this is that I have a bit of time, no riding weather up here in the NE until May at least so it's not like I am in a panic for the bike.

Tinkerman

[Norton Commando]

You could flush out the crank case with it turned upside down and be more or less assured the bits would fall out.

[Jimbo]

hi...6 rollers from old cam bearing i'd lost into th crankcase were all located either on th right flywheel or down right hand side of sump.....spent seemingly a lifetime running a small powerful magnet down th outside of th rightside crankcase to th bottom of sump....wot i found is that it drew th rollers to th right hand out edge of th bottom of flywheel...so by rotating slowly...one by one brought all 6 to th top & small gap on right side of front jug hole between right flywheel & case (front jug off)....used a stick magnet to pluck from gap.....sorry, hope that makes sense... got a hangover fom hell

[tinkerman]

No sweat guys,

Took the cases out of the frame, split them apart and cleaned it out good. I was concerned that just by flushing I wouldn't know if a small peice of metal was stuck in the right side crank bearings or hung up somewhere else. I found about six or seven little bits more or less like this ('.": .',) like I expected. Used a magnet to check all the oil and flushing fluid. Flushed it a couple extra times after the initial just to make sure there was nothing hanging and spun the bearings as well....played around with it for an hour or more....

Now I know she is squeaky clean downthere. Stripping down the primary was no lost time cause I was thinking about a new starter drive and a new set of alternator coils anyway.

I had a new set of coils in the shop so I have them stiched on to the end of the cases now, the cases put back together and all torqued up and repainted.......just need a gasket for thr oil pump.

OH Ya... actually installed that damn cam bearing while I had the cases apart. F%$K of a lot easier with the right side case flat on the bench....  lot more comfortable working position....

Ah well, all in a weekend...

Thanks fellows

[Devo]

I had a inner bearing on a twin cam fubared and we flushed the case with solvent several times. Then took a flat business card size magnet the type you may have on the fridge and connected it to a piece of safety wire.  Then sliped it down under the wheels. Retrieved some very small pieces. Flushed and repeated.

Worked for me.

[Buddy WMC]

Tink,
Good job and done quicker than you thought .