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1990 fxr?

Started by hotbo, February 02, 2009, 08:06:05 AM

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hotbo

hey fellas just bought a 90 fxr for my wife :up:very nice ride.

here is my questions and concerns.

if i read the fxr related topics correct it has final gear ratio of 3.37?thats excellent if this is true. :idea:
i have heard about the weak cases in these years.where are the weaknesses at in the cases?

the bike some nice engine mods done,10.1, crane cam ,t-header ,s-s super e carb ,runs really good for a 80 incher.good enough  for her,lol!!!

thanks for any insight and help,travis   :beer:
03 fatty 124"  S&S Super G/Bored w/T-jet,Dragos Softail Exh.

Buddy WMC

February 02, 2009, 01:38:02 PM #1 Last Edit: February 02, 2009, 05:00:46 PM by Buddy WMC
There is an FXR topical index at the top of the page. Try looking through it, there was alot of thought and hard work done by "Classic" to make it happen. There are also reprint articles from the old HTT, that Classic brought over a few pages back.
These threads should answer all of your questions.

hotbo

03 fatty 124"  S&S Super G/Bored w/T-jet,Dragos Softail Exh.

ClassicRider2002

hotbo~~

Congratulations on picking one of the best framed and produced bikes HD has ever made!!!!!!! You have tons of options with this bike, meaning you can do whatever you want with it and it will end up being quite special......

To answer your questions above, yes you have OEM 3.37 final gearing as long as it hasn't been changed out previously by someone else.....all you have to do is pull the outer primary cover off and count the teeth of your clutch basket, and as long as you have 37 teeth and your front sprocket (compensating sprocket) has 24 teeth then you have officially 3.37 final gearing.

As for the weak engine cases......you can go to the index and read about it there.....

Hope you enjoy the bike alot, it sounds like a good one......don't forget to throw on a photo for all of us here.....we love seeing FXRs....

and exactly what model did you purchase, if you don't know for sure you can always call HD toll free and provide your VIN# and they can tell you what model it is if you are interested....

Regards,

"Classic"

Buddy~~~ thanks for your kind words..... :up:




MIGHTY MOUSE CAM
LOW END TORQUE JUNKIE 2

hotbo

thanks classic.  :up: this is our second fxr,my ole man has a 94 fxlr green in color looks like reddogs or use to,lol! :idea:ill post a pic of both of them when i can.not sure on the model will check into it suppose to be delivered today  :teeth:  :teeth: travis
03 fatty 124"  S&S Super G/Bored w/T-jet,Dragos Softail Exh.

ClassicRider2002

ok....from what I have read.....1990 would fall under the catagory of being careful with the cases.....1992, 1993, 1994 and 1999 and 2000 FXR's would fall outside.....

But here is another comment.....it's only metal....and you can always get new cases.....so I would be careful with how you modify the engine....but it sounds like from what you are reading that it already is....regardless.....ride it until it breaks and if it breaks fix it.....you still have one of the best bikes HD has ever made......and IT IS FIXABLE....depending on your pocket book......if it were me I would keep the pistons stock and not try to build up the compression at all on the bike....I would modify the cam a bit....like to a V~THUNDER EVL 3010 and put a a/c on it with a 2-1 and ride like the wind......anything more than that....and according to what I read the potential is for problems....but like I said.....lol problems are around us every day.....

Regards,

"Classic"
MIGHTY MOUSE CAM
LOW END TORQUE JUNKIE 2

Buddy WMC

Classic is correct as the 90 cases were suspect as being porous. They can crack between the lifter blocks, near the oil pump and elsewhere. Harley did warranty and replace a large number of these "suspect" cases. The only problem is you will never know unless there is a service history available as the original numbers would have been stamped into the new cases.

I would never suggest a case overbore to 3 5/8" unless you know for sure. Even then, aftermarket cases are much stronger than those from the factory. I hot rodded and rebuilt my 93 engine not long ago. So far, I have experienced no problems and if and when it goes I'll save what I can and build a new big inch engine on an aftermarket case platform.

Mild mods as Classic has suggested do not effect long term reliability. Additionally street porting and milling the stock heads for an increase in compression will not hurt reliability either. This will increase your power level with the right cam choice and will make the bike much more fun to ride. 

hotbo

well got it and its super nice.  :up: runs like a bat outta hell   :teeth: it already has head work ,with raised compression and a crane cam,not sure which one trying to find that out.but for a 80 inch bike runs strong.the close ratio revtech 5 speed tranny is nice.has a t-header  with s-s carb with a forcewinder a/c set-up.gotta go to work,post pics later,thanks guys travis
03 fatty 124"  S&S Super G/Bored w/T-jet,Dragos Softail Exh.

ClassicRider2002

"..........Additionally street porting and milling the stock heads for an increase in compression will not hurt reliability either. This will increase your power level with the right cam choice and will make the bike much more fun to ride......"

Buddy~~~

I would like to know what you feel one would gain from say.....porting and milling  a stock heads vs say....simply buying a set of OEM SE EVO heads which apparently are stated as being 72cc's.  From my reading it seems the evo heads apparently are in pretty good shape when it comes to "moving" air around.....thus porting isn't necessarily a need factor?   Any reflections?  It seems the price point for a set of OEM SE Heads is approximately $700.00 or so....do you feel you get something better by simply taking a OEM stock version of heads and porting them out? or perhaps it's less expensive in the long run?

I also would enjoy reading about how your bike is now running as we enter 2009, now that you have the baker 6 speed and your engine hop up.....perhaps here is as good a place to talk about it or perhaps starting a new thread......or going back to the old thread we had done on the gearing would be a good conclusion to that thread to have some of this discussion.....? ? ? ?

Regards,

"Classic"
MIGHTY MOUSE CAM
LOW END TORQUE JUNKIE 2

Buddy WMC

Tim,

My bike is layed up at the moment getting ready for Daytona. We are installing the CCE spherical rear bearing kit and the new 1" lowered front end with the Racetech Emulators installed. My sheet metal has been at the paint shop and should be done by the first of next week. Then she goes back together soon as the swingarm returns from powdercoat.

There are differences of opinion on the value of porting the stock heads vs purchasing the SE heads. As you are aware, I did alot of research before my engine build and the following is strictly my opinion.

With a street type bolt in cam, the engine will definately benefit more from a "street" type porting job and milling the decks to increase compression to no more than 10 to 1 depending upon the cam selected. Bolting a set of SE heads onto a stock engine will yield a one point increase in compression to 9.5 to 1. The problem is there will be a loss in low end power when using a bolt in type cam due to the size of the ports and valves. Is there a right cam for this combination? Not sure as I knew we were not going to go that way with my engine.

I purchased my SE heads over a year and a half ago new for $520.00. After consulting with our own wfolarry (Larry's Motorcycle and Machine), I was convinced that he was the man to rework my SE heads. I had the heads drop shipped to Larry's and received them back right after the first of the year (2008). After being fully ported the SE heads like to flow air at higher valve lifts. The V-Thunder EVL 5015 was selected for my FXR on Larry and V-Thunders recommendation and the Dyno results have been posted. I think we can agree that the proof was in the pudding and this bike is a rocketship although there is room for improvement.

I'm waiting on Photojohns Dyno results as his build was similar to mine. He went with a Mikuni instead of my S&S and chose to go with the EVL 5010 that has a little less duration for his heavier Dyna. I also considered what my future plans were and what parts could be used for a new engine build.

As I like doing my own work, I can build a 100" engine on an Ultima big bore case platform still using the stock stroke. The recommended cam with such a setup is the Woods 8. The timing on my current 5015 is within one degree of the Woods 8 so, no noise like a Woods or Andrews and I can reuse my current cam. My SE heads would also be reusable after being freshened up by Larry and may be even better with more inches to work with.

The bike is basically new with the exception of the frame, wiring harness and engine lower end with 19K on her. So, the long range plan is to aquire the parts for the 100" project as I can afford them. When finished we'll just swap out the engines. With this type of setup I will not have to change the gearing with the Baker as I might if going with a stroker motor type setup.