Adjustable Push Rods / Engine assembly

[tinkerman]

Hey Fellows,

Back at work now for a month but when I get back in the shop, should have everything to complete the top end rebuild of my 88 Evo. When I dissasembled it I discovered it had adjustables installed ...I guess when the EV 27 was put in there. Not sure what make the adjustables are as the only thing stenciled on them is " 3 turns" down at the bottom of the rod near the adjuster. So that is fine, I know when I install them I need to put three turns on them.....what I need you fellows to do is double check my understanding of the install process. So here it is as I underrstand it....

Rebuild cam chest as per manual and install cylinders and heads and torque to spec.

Pre soak new "B" lifters in oil and install them in the blocks and install blocks using the block alignment screws.

With crank rotated so that both lifters on one cylinder are at total rest (TDC) install push rod and push rod tube with push rod tube collapsed. Adjust push rod out until it contacts the lifter and rocker arm. Then expand the push rod adjuster three more turns.
Complete installation of pushrod tube and that should be it. Also I have read that I should give the lifters a bit of time to bleed down between working on different cylinders before rotating crank.

Sound good?

Tinkerman

[Buddy WMC]

Tink,
FWIW, I always turn the engine over with the starter after installing new lifters. That way, I can tell when they are full of oil and are fully pumped up. I then disconnect the battery and install the pushrods, pushrod tubes and adjust starting with the front cylinder. Do not forget the pushrod steel washers and install new O-Rings. After the front cylinder has bled down, I install the clips and move along and do the the rear.

[tinkerman]

OK Buddy,

Thanks for the reply..... by "Do not forget the pushrod steel washers" do you mean the steel washer that goes between the spring and the o ring on the push rod tube?

Tink

[gryphon]

Before installing the rockers I would make sure that my adjustable pushrods were the easy install type and not just plain adjustables. It would really suck to get everything buttoned up and then find out the rods don't adjust down small enough to be inserted with the rockers in place.

[tinkerman]

"Potty mouth" Gryphon,

I didn't even think of that. Will check that out for sure. I'll just lay the heads on top of the cyl's and check to make sure they will fit in between the lifters and the head. Otherwise, I have the process down right?

Thanks for the heads up,

Tinkerman

[Buddy WMC]

Gryphon makes an excellent point  .

There are two sets of steel washers, the larger set fits on top of the lifter block with the O-Ring on top, then the bottom of the pushrod tube. The smaller thinner set fits between the bottom of the spring cap cover spring and then the O-Ring against the top of the pushrod tube. The fatter O-rings fit up into the cylinder heads. You should have a total of 8 steel washers, 4 large and 4 smaller and 12 O-rings total. This is not as difficult as it might sound.

[tinkerman]

Right on Buddy,

I have a new James kit for the push rod tubes so no prob there. I just wanted to make sure I had the process down right for the push rod install with regard to lifter/cam position, bleed down of lifters between the work on each of the cylinders, etc....
I will double check the support washer/ o ring set up to make sure I got it right.

I actually noticed that the kit came with 8 washers, 12 o rings and four quad type rubber rings. Not sure what the quad shape ones are for... a different application I guess as my push rod tubes looked to have o rings top bottom and in the middle.

Appreciate the input fellows. Pretty simple part of the job but have seen my buddy bend up valves on his old shovel so wanted to make sure I had all my ducks in a row. I will rotate the engine by hand when I get it  buttoned up to make sure all the clearances are good. I figure I have had my one and only screw up on this rebuild by dropping a couple of peices of the cam bearing in the cases.

Thanks again,

Tinkerman

[ramcr913]

Tinkerman
Sounds like you got it figured out. As far as "give the lifters a bit of time to bleed down between working on different cylinders before rotating crank"- yes that is correct. Wait until you can turn the pushrod with your fingers before rotating the engine.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

[gofastmoose]

The first thing you need to know is, how many threads per inch your pushrods are.
The threads per inch vary from 24 to 52 threads per inch.
Some common adjustments are ( 6 flats per turn )
24 threads = 15 flats
28 threads = 17 flats
32 threads = 18 flats
40 threads = 24 flats
52 threads = 30 flats

[Sc00ter]

The first thing you need to know is, how many threads per inch your pushrods are.
The threads per inch vary from 24 to 52 threads per inch.
Some common adjustments are ( 6 flats per turn )
24 threads = 15 flats
28 threads = 17 flats
32 threads = 18 flats
40 threads = 24 flats
52 threads = 30 flats

Next thing you need to know is how much travel is built into your lifters.  Most have .200 travel.  I run S&S limited travel lifters - which have .100 total travel.  I set my pushrod length to achieve approx. .050 lifter compression.

[tinkerman]

Excellent details there folks.

Finger loose is a good heads up and the specifics for pushrods and lifters is very helpful in understanding the overall design of the valve train. At this point I will assume the pushrods threads are 32 tpi but will check it with a thread gauge when I get back in the shop. As for the movement available within the Harley "B" lifetrs that I am using I will have to research that but it shouldn't be that hard to find out.

It's one thing to do something the way a book or someone tells you to do it. It's even better when you get to learn some details on why you are doing something a certain way.

Thanks for the input,

Tink

[fxr4mikey]

Hey Fellows,

Back at work now for a month but when I get back in the shop, should have everything to complete the top end rebuild of my 88 Evo. When I dissasembled it I discovered it had adjustables installed ...I guess when the EV 27 was put in there. Not sure what make the adjustables are as the only thing stenciled on them is " 3 turns" down at the bottom of the rod near the adjuster. So that is fine, I know when I install them I need to put three turns on them.....what I need you fellows to do is double check my understanding of the install process. So here it is as I underrstand it....

Rebuild cam chest as per manual and install cylinders and heads and torque to spec.

Pre soak new "B" lifters in oil and install them in the blocks and install blocks using the block alignment screws.

With crank rotated so that both lifters on one cylinder are at total rest (TDC) install push rod and push rod tube with push rod tube collapsed. Adjust push rod out until it contacts the lifter and rocker arm. Then expand the push rod adjuster three more turns.
Complete installation of pushrod tube and that should be it. Also I have read that I should give the lifters a bit of time to bleed down between working on different cylinders before rotating crank.

Sound good?

Tinkerman

maybe you already know this, and meant to say it .... let's say you are working on the front cylinder first...... let's say further that you are going to adjust the exhaust valve push  rod first......

you rotate the engine to get the front cyl at TDC .... you adjust the exhaust valve push rod ...... you MUST WAIT and allow the lifter to bleed down BEFORE you adjust the INTAKE VALVE push rod on the front cylinder.   Then you wait for that to bleed down before moving to the rear cylinder, rotate the engine to TDC for the rear cylinder and.... follow that same process on that cylinder

Best of luck !

[Sc00ter]

To further make your point, Mike - the reason for this is if you do not wait for the lifter to fully bleed down prior to rotating the motor, the first valve you have adjusted will be "open" - and there is a potential for an unfortunate interference...

[fxr4mikey]

To further make your point, Mike - the reason for this is if you do not wait for the lifter to fully bleed down prior to rotating the motor, the first valve you have adjusted will be "open" - and there is a potential for an unfortunate interference...

eggzactly right .... I failed to mention the reason why .... same reason you have to let the first lifter bleed down on the first cylinder before you adjust the second lifter on that same cylinder .... you don't want the two valves to hit each other, now do we   

[Sc00ter]

To further make your point, Mike - the reason for this is if you do not wait for the lifter to fully bleed down prior to rotating the motor, the first valve you have adjusted will be "open" - and there is a potential for an unfortunate interference...

eggzactly right .... I failed to mention the reason why .... same reason you have to let the first lifter bleed down on the first cylinder before you adjust the second lifter on that same cylinder .... you don't want the two valves to hit each other, now do we   

[Reddog74usa]

I use a CLEAN  pump type oil can to pump the new lifters full of oil by placing the nozzle of the sqirt can in the hole on the side of the lifter. Pump it up until you see oil coming out of the hole in the center of the cap at the top.

[tinkerman]

Right on Guys,

The devil is in the details. All comments duly noted. I think I have pretty much got everything organized to finish the rebuild when I get home. The only thing I am second guessing myself on is that I purchased all James gaskets for the top end except the timing gear cover and tappet block gaskets. However I think I am going to change out the James rubber rocker box gaskets which I have on hand and get the Harley ones instead.

Based on several comments on this board I think the Harley fit a little better and make for a better job in the long run.

Thanks again for all the suggestions on the pushrod install.

Tinkerman

[fxr4mikey]

Right on Guys,

The devil is in the details. All comments duly noted. I think I have pretty much got everything organized to finish the rebuild when I get home. The only thing I am second guessing myself on is that I purchased all James gaskets for the top end except the timing gear cover and tappet block gaskets. However I think I am going to change out the James rubber rocker box gaskets which I have on hand and get the Harley ones instead.

Based on several comments on this board I think the Harley fit a little better and make for a better job in the long run.

Thanks again for all the suggestions on the pushrod install.

Tinkerman

I'm currently in the process of building my engine ... mild stuff
the tear down is complete, the cylinders and pistons should be back in a few days

I too have the James gasket set for the rocker boxes.

I've been talking with Tim and others for a couple of months about gaskets and sealants and so on and so on ...

long story short ..... in my haste to get my stuff I included the James top rocker box 'SET' by error, and was gonna use the HD rubber ones.
Having the James gaskets in hand I've decided to use them. If they fail, they fail, and then I'll get on the band wagon with everyone else.

So, I should have my ride together in another couple of weeks .......... and time will tell if I'm posting up here and other sites that I visit, that the James rubber gaskets are holding up or not, we'll see.

Best of luck to you with your build !

Mikey

[psyco369]

I used the james rubbers on mine good fit no leaky .....the HD-b's are .200 travel

[fxr4mikey]

I used the james rubbers on mine good fit no leaky .....the HD-b's are .200 travel

Glad to hear that, Thanks for postin it up !

[ClassicRider2002]

and Mikey....if you direct other's to your "build" they can see your modeling experience too....



Regards,

"Classic"

[tinkerman]

OK Fellows,

You saved me a phone call. I will try the James as well seeing as they are on the bench in the shop.

Thanks 369 for the lifter travel info.

Tink

[fxr4mikey]

and Mikey....if you direct other's to your "build" they can see your modeling experience too....



Regards,

"Classic"

Tim - that's what I'm afraid of