Front Brake Pad Replacement Tips

[flhs90]

Evos:

I will be putting new Kevlar EBC pads on the front calipers next. They are on order at $30 per pair. Priced Harley pads at the dealership and they were $39.99 per pair.
John S. likes the EBC pads so good enough for me and I can put the extra $20 torwards my rocker cover gaskets.
When I had new Dunlops mounted I removed the front wheel and reinstalled it as per shop manual.
The driver side pads were very tough for me. I didn't want to scratch the fender. I finally got it but know the new pads will be tougher.
So I'll open the bleeders and push the piston back in. I can do that.
What size clear tubing should I buy for bleeding to keep the fluid away from the painted front fender?
Is it possible to reinstall the front wheel directly into the two calipers without doing it the way I did the last time.(i.e. I removed each caliper by itself, put pads back in, then fitted caliper to forks. Seemed to be a hassle with that technique.)
Not trying to cuss so much the next time.
Please advise.

Thanks as always for the tech talk,

FLHS 90

[Hoist!]

Lyndall Z pads!

Hoist!

[flhs90]

Thanks Hoist:

Do you know an oline supplier and approximate price per pair?
I'm sure there are  adavantages for the Lyndall Z quality. Longer wear, quieter, smoother stops, easier on rotors, ...? Can you elaborate, just want the best and safest pad for the dollar.
Not trying to be cheap. You must know the quality or performance of the Z pads based on your experience with lessor pads.
Thanks in advance for your 2cents and tech tips.

Always learning,  appreciate your willingness to help me

FLHS 90

Dave

[Buddy WMC]

I'm running the Lydall Z+ pads on my 93 FXLR with a single disc front setup on Russell Stainless rotors. Russell actually recommended the Lyndall pads and trust me, they have been tested as I've needed to stop in a hurry a couple of times. Mostly on some of the charity runs sponored by our local dealer. It's amazing how folks can spend upwards over 20K and do not know how to ride in a pack. Far as the Lyndall's go, No Noise, no fade and I'm absolutely satisfied with them even though they are a little more expensive. If you ride in the rain alot, you might want to look into the softer Gold pad.

[gryphon]

I've always pulled the calipers and replaced them after the wheel was installed. If all you're doing is replacing the pads you shouldn't have to bleed the system. If your worried about drawing in air when you crack the bleeder then just have someone else crack it while you push the piston in. That way no air gets in cause it's under pressure.

[Hoist!]

Thanks Hoist:

Do you know an oline supplier and approximate price per pair?
I'm sure there are  adavantages for the Lyndall Z quality. Longer wear, quieter, smoother stops, easier on rotors, ...? Can you elaborate, just want the best and safest pad for the dollar.
Not trying to be cheap. You must know the quality or performance of the Z pads based on your experience with lessor pads.
Thanks in advance for your 2cents and tech tips.

Always learning,  appreciate your willingness to help me

FLHS 90

Dave

Better stopping power, less dust and noise! Win, win, win all around. Not sure where you're located. My friend gets em for me. Any shop can order em. I'm in NYC. North Shore MC in New Hyde Park, NY, ask for Adam. I've another friend with a shop in Hayward , CA, Metal Dragon gets em, ask for Jim. Or you're local shop should be able to find em. Not a lotta folks know about em, but those that do, know the deal. The "Z" Plus compound is what you're after.

http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/
http://www.northshoremotorcycles.com/
Metal Dragon-Jim
22336 Meekland Ave
Hayward, CA 94541
(510) 885-9471

Hoist!

[FSG]

You can get product from Lyndall direct, mention HTT for a discount.

[Evo160K]

Flhs90,
If your brake lever and fluid were good before, you don't need to bleed anything.  Just pull the caliper and remove the pads.  Turn bars and bike so master cylinder is level.  Remove the mc cover.  Holding bleeder at 12 o'clock, take a c-clamp and push in the piston until it bottoms lightly, watch fluid doesn't overflow the mc.  Spoon or syringe it out before it runs over if it gets near the top.  Put new pads in caliper, remount caliper and pump brake lever until the piston is pushed out to the pads making sure to keep mc full of fluid so it doesn't run out and pump air..

[96FLSTF]

Evos:

I will be putting new Kevlar EBC pads on the front calipers next. They are on order at $30 per pair. Priced Harley pads at the dealership and they were $39.99 per pair.
John S. likes the EBC pads so good enough for me and I can put the extra $20 torwards my rocker cover gaskets.
When I had new Dunlops mounted I removed the front wheel and reinstalled it as per shop manual.
The driver side pads were very tough for me. I didn't want to scratch the fender. I finally got it but know the new pads will be tougher.
So I'll open the bleeders and push the piston back in. I can do that.
What size clear tubing should I buy for bleeding to keep the fluid away from the painted front fender?
Is it possible to reinstall the front wheel directly into the two calipers without doing it the way I did the last time.(i.e. I removed each caliper by itself, put pads back in, then fitted caliper to forks. Seemed to be a hassle with that technique.)
Not trying to cuss so much the next time.
Please advise.

Thanks as always for the tech talk,

FLHS 90

In your procedure you didn't mention any real service to the caliper like claening around the piston. In my case it made a world of difference in preventing squeal & that whooshing sound you typically hear at slow speeds. Lyndall's procedure is below:

http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/service_tech.htm

Gene

[ClassicRider2002]

".......So I'll open the bleeders and push the piston back in. I can do that........"

"STOP"  
HOPEFULLY YOU DIDN'T DO THIS YET......YIKES, there is NO reason to do what you are about to do......don't open that valve...or you might as well change your brake fluid with this....you are going to end up going through the same process as is done to change the brake fluid anyway.....

hmmmmm

I would be quite surprised if the brakes need to be bled to install the new pads or even to quickly turn the bleed screw at all....all you need is a huge screw driver to "gently" pry the calipers apart or to "push" them apart....there will be enough room to get the new pads in by doing this...even though the new pads are thicker...remember though NOT to touch your brake lever ie: pressing your brake lever until the calipers are reattached to your forks (when working on the front one) and are in their proper place for operating.....bleeding the brakes is a unecessary step unless you are changing your brake fluid...and if you are doing that...welcome to the world of patience...if your brakes feel "mushy" even after installing the new pads this may be something you need to do....there is a lot of opinions about how often one should change their brake fluid....all the way from "never" to "once a year" but remember it's a "closed loop" system thus there really is no need to change the fluid, but like anything "condensation" ie: some moisture will get in there so replacing the fluid can be a "warranted" maintenance item....given your FXR is a 1991 model....if it's never been done....and you ask yourself how do you know if it's been done or not...my point exactly...changing it wouldn't be a bad thing....if you do decide to change it...YOU CAN NOT MIX brake fluid types....if 5 is in it 5 goes back in if 4 is in it 4 goes back in....don't mix...no one ever wants to change their brake fluid...it's a painfully slow process...it gets everywhere if you have the slightest mishap...and if it's one of the grades that's acidic (sp) it can eat your paint finish...bleeding brakes is one of the more unpleasant maintenance things we do to our bikes...LOL probably explains why we all don't do it as often as we should...but to tell you the truth either your brakes work or they don't to some degree........

Regards,

"Classic"

[flhs90]

Classic:

I did stop and read the latest posts to my repair problem.
If it ain't broke don't mess with it.

I'll just use the screwdriver and "spread the pads, then insert my new EBC Kevlar pads, recommended  by none the less than John S.
If I hadn't ordered those alreay and have them in hand I'd spend the extra coin and get the Lydall Z pads recommended  by Hoist.

It's all good.

John S. gave me a tip for the driver's side caliper, tight fit to reinstall. I'll add it to this thread for posterity.

Long live HTT and the Evo riders pat of the forum.

FLHS 90, one hell of a Harley Davidson, hell, all the Harleys are good.

[JBarrettB]

Regardless of which pads you choose if you don't lube the pin bores so that the calipers will float the new pads will not wear evenly. H-D says Molly 44, or a silicone brake pin lube will serve. Not anti seize, the lube must be rubber/metal compatible.

JB 

[04glide]

I run the EBC Kevlar pads. Best pads I have ever used. And yes I ran the Z pads before. EBC Kevlars worked better for me.
I also run Speed Bleeders. Makes for easy brake jobs.