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V-Twin piston marks?

Started by 96flhpi, February 07, 2009, 10:29:50 AM

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96flhpi

Got my cylinders back today.  Dude even painted them - no extra charge.  Anyway, V-Twin (JCC) pistons both have green paint on one pin boss.  Does that mean anything for installation - green paint to sprocket side, for example?  Didn't get instructions and didn't notice to ask machinist until I got home and he's closed now.  Would like to get these on tomorrow.

Also, do you guys install one side's pin clip prior to installing pin, or put pin in first then do both clips.  Have this fear of dropping a clip in the case even though I'll take all the necessary precautions (rags stuffed in bores).

As usual, thanks for the help.

crazycanadian

check for piston valve notch..  if got one bigger than other.. they go towards the intakes.
notches the same look at the skirts for divet cut out.. if got a divet cut out those go towards each other.. that's crank clearance.

If perfectly round and notches the same.. don't matter what way they go in.

I put one clip in first.. then you got something to push the pin against as you put the other in... lotsa rags and your golden.

Sc00ter

Quote from: crazycanadian on February 08, 2009, 10:49:06 AM
check for piston valve notch..  if got one bigger than other.. they go towards the intakes.
notches the same look at the skirts for divet cut out.. if got a divet cut out those go towards each other.. that's crank clearance.

If perfectly round and notches the same.. don't matter what way they go in.

I put one clip in first.. then you got something to push the pin against as you put the other in... lotsa rags and your golden.


Good answer CC...  And even if the skirts are cut for crank clearance - verify you have clearance skirt/crankshaft clearance once your pistons are installed.  It is not uncommon that the notches are insufficient - especially if you have changed stroke!   :up:

96flhpi

Thanks for replies - thought book said pins were offset.  All back together now with no problem, other than learning the trick of getting those effin spiral keepers in.  Took about 1/2 hour to do the first, minute or two to do the rest.  Kicked it through a few times and no binding or strange noises so I guess I'm alright.

crazycanadian

ooo those sprials are way more fun to get out hahah.. but you never have to worry bout them poppin out!!

just start her up and let her idle no rev. put hand on cylinder.. once feels like pretty warm.. shut off.. let cool.. do it again.. keep going a lil longer each time.. I like to do that about 8 or 10 times .. before  I'll actually let it warm and just idle idle for a long time and start revving it.. lets the rings seat really nice.

Then I'll let it warm up to operatin temp and shut down another 8 or so times before I ride em or start to put any load on them on the dyno.

m

96flhpi

CC, I hear ya bout getting thoe spirals out - when I took it down it DIDN'T get any quicker after figuring out how to do the first .  Thanks for break in advice. 

How often do you retorque everything - seen a lot of different advice but was planning on doing it after first heat cycle (or several cycles your way - either way before the first putt), then after 50, 250 and 500 miles.

Thanks again - wouldn't undertake this kind of stuff without the support I get from the fellers here, at least now I kinda know what I'm doing (a little anyway).

shovelbill

96, may want to check for an intake leak whilst your in the garage  :wink:
build it, bust it.....figure out why

crazycanadian

if you got composition gaskets in there just torque to 42ftlbs if u can.. and after you do all that heat cycling.. let her cool down and give her a twist.. if they didn't really loosen at all I wouldn't worry till bout 500 miles.. then recheck.. then you should be good.

96flhpi

Quote from: shovelbill on February 08, 2009, 04:22:00 PM
96, may want to check for an intake leak whilst your in the garage  :wink:

Oh my - I checked and I got the biggest intake leak, and 0lbs compression on both cylinders, what did I do wrong - oh, nevermind, forgot to put the heads back on :hyst:

Already know bout lining up intake before tightening heads, Bill - got some new rubber bands and clamps all set.  Was gonna install it with the heads loose and tighten everything at the same time.

CC - got James metal with silicone on base and James fire ring for heads.  Are those comp. gaskets, and you talking 42 lbs on base or heads - book says 35 base 65 head if I remember right.  Haven't torqued anything down yet - only local place with crowfeet wrenches (so I can get my torque wrench in there - I know 90degrees to wrench) is closed til Mon morning.

Thanks again.

crazycanadian

oh wait ya those are bolts not studs.. really you shouldnt need more than 50ft lbs that's huge.! An evo only has 4 and is torqued to 42lbs and never blow out.. shovie has 5 bolts.. so should have even better clamping force. Personally I figured the only reason they wanted such high torque numbers back then is they used copper gaskets and that was the only thing that would keep them in place and not blow out was insane torque.

I personally torque my 114hp 93incher with cometic comps gaskets to 43 and it has 230lb cranking compression and it never ever leaked. I'd go backand give it a retorque for good measure but.. nah not with a comp gasket.. when i tore it down here getting ready to put on the billet heads.. they were still tight as nuns hoochie and showed no signs of leaking.. guy could prob have reused the gasket even.

The slugs are cast in on a harley so they'll handle the wild torque.. do that with STD heads and inserts will pull right out.

My new billet heads i'm recom 43ft lbs with a stud kit... should never have a prob.

76shuvlinoff

February 09, 2009, 02:49:15 AM #10 Last Edit: February 09, 2009, 11:13:29 AM by 76shuvlinoff
  Last winter when I had the jugs and heads off my mill I thought the rule was 35-40 at the base and 55-65 at the heads, guess I better look it up.
Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place, then come down and shoot the survivors.
 - Ernest Hemingway

96flhpi

76shuv - you're right, 32-40 for base and 55-75 for head according to HD, but like CC said gaskets have changed since the book was written.  For safe keeping I guess I'll go to the lower end of those ranges.

crazycanadian

ur ok torquing the stock heads that heavy if u so wish.. because like i say the inserts are actually cast into the aluminum..std uses pressed in ones.. they WILL pull out...really shouldn't be needed on a composition gasket..