Weird Clutch problem

[buzzurd]

83 FXSB....bike was shifting fine.Stopped and got gas and wouldn't shift.Got it back home,pulled derby cover and ran bike on lift with rear wheel in the air.Hold the clutch in while in gear,all of a sudden the clutch grabs and starts spinning.The rear wheel doesn't turn just the clutch and then all of a sudden it will quit spinning.
Ideas???
Buzzurd

[CraigArizona85248]

Not sure I understand your explanation.  When you say the clutch all the sudden started spinning, I assume you mean the clutch hub in the center of the clutch basket.  If that's the case and you were in neutral, then I would not expect the rear wheel to spin.  If this is a sudden clutch malfunction, check the throw-out bearing.  Your '83 would have the cheesy wafer style throw-out bearing that they switched to in the 70's.  Try pulling the transmission filler plug on the kicker cover and look in there with a flashlight.  On mine, I can see the throw-out bearing pretty easily.  If you can't get an eyeball on it, pull the kicker cover.  It's an easy job.  Lean the bike to the left and keep it over there while you remove the cover and you won't have to drain the trans fluid.

[EDIT]  Just noticed you said the bike was in gear when you had it up on the lift.  Hmmm... if the center clutch hub was spinning and you were in gear the rear wheel would have to be turning unless something inside the transmission is broken.  Still ... check the throw-out bearing first... I always start with the simple things.

-Craig

[Dogbone45ACP]

Check mainshaft end play. If its moveing in and out too much the clutch may be grabbing.

[Dogbone45ACP]

Let us know what you find, It could be the plate that retains the bearing on the kicker side, if it's screws came loose or the bearing failed  the shaft could move in and out. It's been 20+ since I did a 4 speed, but I still have all the books if we need to look in them. Sam

[buzzurd]

Craig....when the clutch started spinning in gear I had the clutch lever pulled in.I tried adjusting the clutch on the side of the road when it quit shifting.Finally was able to limp it home.As you would let off on the clutch the bike would start to move then you would have a dead spot and then it would engage again and was able to ride and change gears.I'll pull the kicker cover today and take a peek.
Thanks for the info Craig and Sam.I'll report my findings later.
Buzzurd

[76shuvlinoff]

When my throw-out bearing gave up pulling away from a stop was jerky and shifting was very hard, pretty much as you describe it.  I was able to limp it home by minimizing the shifts and doing "rolling" stops.

[buzzurd]

OK....update.Pulled the kicker cover.Found nothing wrong.Release bearing is fine,screws that hold bearing plate are tight.Did notice one thing on the clutch side.In neutral I can hold the clutch basket and turn the clutch hub.There is a slight wobble in the clutch basket when turning the hub.Put the clutch basket and hub (has the big fix bearings)from my 75 FXE and still have the wobble.Could the mainshaft be bent?This is the ol ladies bike and she rides it like one,not abused.I have had the inner primary off and did away with all the linkage arms to the cowpie shifter and installed forward controls.So it is just one shift arm from shifter to shifter arm on trans.
Buzzurd

[Dogbone45ACP]

I guess the mainshaft could be bent, but short of an wreck they're hard to bend. I would pull the clutch hub and check if it spun and sheared the key. Keep us posted, maybe we'll learn something new, Sam

[buzzurd]

Nope....clutch hub was fine as was the key.Took a piece of glass and checked the steel plates.ALOT of wobble in the plates.The ol lady is bad about slipping the clutch.So here's where I'm going with this.I'm running my old 5 stud clutch hub (long roller bearings) with her basket due to it being a belt drive.Ordering new kevlar discs and plates (barnett).Going to get the big release bearing setup.We'll see what happens and I'll keep ya'll posted.
Buzzurd

[Dogbone45ACP]

I'm not a big fan of kevlar plates in a dry clutch. I use CCI or Primo generic plates in my 96 inch shovel with no problems. Everytime I have installed kevlar I didn't a good release. That said I love them in wet clutches. I perfer Energy One plates,Great people great products. Sam

[hotham]

Over the years I think I tried every kind of clutch trick out there.  When you put some HP in the motor nothing worked.  They are marginal on a stock motor.  Several years ago I "bite the bullet" and installed a Rivera Pro Clutch.  End of problems.  Bike can sit for weeks and goes into gear silent.  Release never changes and it shifts like "butta".  This is behind a 92hp Shovel that gets ridden hard.  Using Redline Shockproof Heavy helps the shifting.

[buzzurd]

OK.....here's where I stand at present.Installed the BIG release bearing kit,no problem.Like I stated have got the long bearings in the hub/basket.New retainer with approx. .010 play.Turn the hub and have, what I feel to be quite abit of wobble in the basket.Haven't put a dial indicator on it but will if everyone seems to think it may be questionable.What is acceptable?
Buzzurd

[wreck74]

take the hub off and check the shaft for wobble. there should'nt be any. i read somewhere the longer rollers are not as good as the shorter staggered rollers. try the TAMER clutch insert. J&P $62.99  i use one on my 59 pan with a 5 stud hub,(short and staggered rollers) a shovelhead clutch basket, (with the starter ring gear removed) works great.

[buzzurd]

Been told the longer rollers are necessary for factory belt drive primary.I had the caged staggered bearings in it and the wobble was worse.I'm wondering if anyone offers an oversize bearing.Thinking the clutch hub may be alittle larger then the bearings are capable of taking up.
Buzzurd

[76shuvlinoff]

 I put the long roller kit in with a new basket once and it was way too tight so I put a regular staggered set of bearings in it. Since then I've read where I should not have used all the long bearings.
About 21,000 miles ago I went with a Rivera Pro unit behind my 93"er. Standard release spring in it and never a slip.  Finding neutral is still not exactly perfect but it is soooo much better than the oem set-up for me.

Mark

[buzzurd]

OK....everything is back together.NOW do I adjust the clutch as described in my 75 manual or as described in my 83 manual?Let me elaborate a tad.The 75 manual says adjust the center screw till you have a specific distance between the starter and throw out arm.Then adjust clutch cable.The 83 says adjust the cable till you have a specific distance between the throw out arm and the top of the cowpie trans.Then screw in the screw till it bottoms on clutch shaft and back out 1/8" turn.
Buzzurd

[Devo]

100" shovel with heavy springs, hear a pop and then had loose hand control adjustment. Readjusted on the side of the road to get home. Pulled the clutch apart and found the studs had started pulling out of the hub.