wanna go back to original primary tins??

[Ozbob]

I will have in my possession very soon a 61, it has a 65 primary setup.
Can I just go back to tin primary and kick only, just by changing the primary inner and outer?
Or, has the mainshaft been changed to suit the 65 and I need to change it back to pre 65?
I will be installing an enclosed belt drive with the original primary tins conversion.
Any help on this is appreciated, happy new year:)

[Snuff™]

The mainshaft part numbers are different but someone else will need to chime in on that fit, but you will need an earlier transmission mounting plate if the original was changed to a '65 and later.  There is no primary chain adjustment on the later ones. Inner primary mounting ears on the tranny may also need trimed off as well.

[Ozbob]

Cheers Snuff
tranny plate won't be a problem, even if I need to source an aftermarket unit.
Still unsure on mainshaft, is there anyway of telling what's what when installed, I'm new to this old iron. Like if the longer mainshaft has been fitted, do I really need to change it to run tin primary and belt drive??

[easyricer]

The 65-up tranny looks like this one. The main shaft is longer and the case has these primary mount bosses. On my imitation 48 build I pulled the studs out of the mount bosses and used bolts to hold the primary on. You will have to get a good (QUALITY) support plate/bearing to mount to it, if you ride hard.
Otherwise, yeah, you can just pull the aluminum primary and replace the stock steel one.
EASY

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[fourthgear]

I will have in my possession very soon a 61, it has a 65 primary setup.
Can I just go back to tin primary and kick only, just by changing the primary inner and outer?
Or, has the mainshaft been changed to suit the 65 and I need to change it back to pre 65?
I will be installing an enclosed belt drive with the original primary tins conversion.
Any help on this is appreciated, happy new year:)

If its OEM 65 primary inner & outers & ya want to get ride of it , let me know .

The 65 outer primary cover has no access covers & the inner has three bolt holes to mount it to the mtr.( which you probably have on there) With proper shim work , you can use a Shovel outer primary, Its what's on my 65 ).

As said , there should not be too much problem switching over , depending on how the primary chain has been set up .

Hopefully the early model compensator or just a straight sprocket were used .( unless some one changed the sprocket shaft/fly wheels etc. )

I think the outer tin is a little different if a early comp. is used , Please correct me if I'm wrong.

[Ozbob]

Cheers for all the feedback.
Got the new tins and shorter mainshaft n clutch pushrod to suit suit the kick only setup. Just waiting for the bike to get across the ocean now.
One more question, I have turned the primary chain oiler metering jet off, any recommendations on what to do with the oiler tube into primary. Do I just fab a bung of some sort?
P.S running a BDL enclosed belt drive conversion.

[Deye76]

"any recommendations on what to do with the oiler tube into primary"

Cap it off.

[CraigArizona85248]

You said this motor is a '61 in the original post.  If that's the case that tube the oils the primary chain is also your breather.  You can't block it off.  If you do, you'll start blowing air mixed with oil out of the push rod tubes, the pan covers, etc. (ask me how I know this...  )  You must let the motor breath.

But if this is a '65 motor, I'm not familiar with how they breath.  They might have changed the breather setup for '65 because of the aluminum (sealed) primary.

The photo below shows how I have re-routed the breather to keep my belt drive clean and oil free.

-Craig

[Ozbob]

Cheers
Yes, the original engine was/is a 61.
But I will be fitting an S&S 93ci engine. It has the tube coming out the side of case to primary.

[CraigArizona85248]

I'd bet that the tube on your S&S is also a breather.  You'll need to find out from S&S.  If it is a breather, you can't block it off.  There is a screw on the side of the oil pump to turn off chain feed oil.  This will stop most of the oil from coming out the breather pipe.  But you'll still get some oil mixed with the air coming out that will make a mess.  That's why I have the tube to carry the breather air/oil mix out of the primary.

NOTE:  When you close off the oil at the pump using the screw, don't overtighten it.  You just need to seat the screw and set the lock nut.

Does the pipe on your S&S look like this?



Here you can see the screw on the side of the S&S oil pump to adjust oil flow to the primary chain...

[Ozbob]

Thanks Craig
I have the pump setting under control, will contact S&S just to confirm, but I tend to agree with your statement regarding breathing.
The primary oiler pipe is identical in appearance to the OEM setup.
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[CraigArizona85248]

Ozbob, that's definitely a breather tube. Pretty simple to reroute it to keep your primary clean and dry.

Nice looking motor too!

-Craig

[Deye76]

Sorry Ozbob, I was thinking of the small tube that oiled the rear chain, and I even quoted you about the primary.
Thanks for keeping tabs on this Craig. 

[CraigArizona85248]

Deye76,

No worries.  Plugging the breather will make the bike run like crap and spew oil but it's not likely to do any damage.  I learned this lesson the hard way about 9 years ago when I accidentally kinked the hose I use to route the breather air/oil out of my primary.  I only ran the motor for about 1 minutes but it sure made an oily mess 

-Craig

[Ozbob]

Cheers fellas, reckon I got a plan for the breather now, once I start assembly I'll look at routing to ground or maybe even to rear chain.
Since I have been looking at the area I decided to test fit the front BDL belt pulley, the pulley and belt guide just foul the machined lip/edge around the crank seal. Tossing up whether to shim pulley or just shave the edge to accommodate the pulley set up. Guess I'll have to wait and see where alignment is at first. I see BDL have shim kits, but they state 1970-up. No mention of early 4 speeds , have sent an email enquiring??