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Dropping Wheels For New Tires

Started by ModelABob, November 06, 2008, 12:52:40 PM

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ModelABob

Fellow Blockhead Affectionados,

I'm putting new tires on both the wheels of my '94 FLSTN and this is the first time for me for this 'newer'
style H-D.  Been riding this scooter since buying it 'pre-owned' about a year ago.  My question is do you have to remove the rear brake caliper before dropping wheel assembly out from under bike?  If so what size are the
Torex bolts (I thoroughly detest Torex bolts, Allen head and even Phillips heads are bad enough >:() I used a
7/32 allen head wrench to loosen them.  They will be replaced by Hex head if I have any thing to say about it. ;D
What say o' ye' of yonder siber world? 8)  TIA

AMF/Ride Safe ;)
To Ride, Shoot Straight & Speak the Truth.....  J. Cooper

Trip

No..you dont..just put a piece of wood in there after the wheel is outa the rotore...keeps the pads from closin on ya ...causing all kinda grief and swear words......

ModelABob

Trip,After I quit banging on the key board about the new tires for the Blockhead.  I hopped on the 'ol trusty Panand rode to my Indy's shop.  He said he does remove the calipers just to get them out of the way.  I thinkI'll leave them on at first and see how it goes.  Also, found out the Torex size I need is T-45.Yesterday when I was working on removing the rear wheel I found the rear axle had been placed in backwardsand now I've got to loosen or remove the Thunderheader exhaust on the scoot. >:( In order to get the axle outand remove the wheel.  But, before that I've got to grind off a stripped nut on a right front floor board mounting bolt so I can get if out of the way of removing the header. >:( >:(  In other words putting on new tires will probably take a "little" longer then I thought.  Especially when the Pan is sitting waiting to go In The Wind. :DAMF/Ride Safe ;)
To Ride, Shoot Straight & Speak the Truth.....  J. Cooper

Trip

You cant put a rear axle in "backwards"....it doesnt care what side the nuts on...many guys reverse em on baggers especially....btw, got a pic of your Pan???....

Herbstr

Bob,
The MOCO puts the axel in from the curb side, so they can charge you for dropping the exhaust. I switched mine around on my 97 dwg to make it easier until I put on the axel covers for more bling, in doing that I had to return to the stock way so the covers would fit. LIke the post above the bike doesn't care which side you put it in from.

H

Buddy WMC

Bob,
Check out Diamond Engineerings website. The make stainless steel bolt and washer kit for just about everything on a Harley. You have a choice of OE, Allen style capscrews, or 12 point Raceproof fasteners. Just about every fastener and washer on my 1993FXR is 12 point Diamond unless it is not made for that application. If so, I used the allen capscrews. They are a little pricey, but are very high quality stronger than stock fastenders. The plus is with the heat and humidity here in Florida they do not rust. I'm using their 12pt caliper kits and banjo bolts now.

Trip

Stainless Steel and Aluminum Alloy DONT mix....thats a TV biker thing ...try it..you,ll find out...save your money.

ModelABob

Everybody,

Thanks for the advice & info.  I measured and placing the rear axle with the nut/washers on the right side will give me
just enough room next to the Thunderheader muffler to be O'Kay.  I'll for sure check out that Diamond Engineering
website.  I use to order from Gardner-Westscott for all my chrome nuts & bolts.  You use to be able to deal directly
with them without having to go through a dealer.  I need to look into them again.  What Trip says about the SS
and aluminum not mixing well I have heard before too.  You have to be careful with stainless steel fastners because
the average SS hardness is only, I think, a grade 3.  You don't want to use any thing less then grade 5 and grade 8
on real stressful places. :teeth: No pics of the Pan yet Trip.  Hopefully in the not to distant future I'll coordinate with
the Camp Commendant ('ol lady) the pic taker and come up with some.  Now that the Evo is down for a while I'm riding
the Pan more and she is leaking less now.  Must be the sign of a happy scooter. :smile:

AMF/Ride Safe :wink:
To Ride, Shoot Straight & Speak the Truth.....  J. Cooper

PocoCJ

Quote from: Trip on November 08, 2008, 04:46:17 AM
Stainless Steel and Aluminum Alloy DONT mix....thats a TV biker thing ...try it..you,ll find out...save your money.
Hmm, been using stainless fasteners for about 30 years on HD cam/timing covers, primary covers, engine mounting bolts,exhaust studs/bolts, brake calipers, and anywhere else I could put the little buzzards.  I've never had a problem with any galvanic corrosion.

Diamond has the high strength fasteners available for where they're needed.
Chrome sucks.
WBFFWB

Trip

Its not just galvanic issues..the threads of a stainless fastener are to aggressive in aluminum alloy....stainless screws for the old tin primarys destroyed them in short order also.....but if it works for you...by all means, go for it.

elwoodb7

November 09, 2008, 06:43:48 AM #10 Last Edit: November 09, 2008, 08:13:16 AM by elwoodb7
Bob,
In the past I've had good luck with unbolting the rear shocks to allow the swingarm to drop below the exhaust. This allows the axle to be removed without removing the exhaust. Not sure if it will work for you on your bike but it may be worth giving it a try.

Just realized you have a Softail, so my guess is this won't work. Sorry

ModelABob

elwoodb7,

Hey thanks for the tip!  You never know when it might come in handy. :teeth:

AMF/Ride Safe :wink:
To Ride, Shoot Straight & Speak the Truth.....  J. Cooper