'64 FLH Pukin' too much oil

[Pan Crazy]

My '64 pukes way too much oil when she sits, and after she runs as well.  I understand that the chain oiler through the caseing breather bolt spits some oil to lube the inner primary, and it then runs out to lube the outer chain, but Bessie pukes all over the place after shes ridden, or even if she sits for a while.  Just keeps pukin', even after I clean 'er up.  I have just turned down the oiler adjusting screw on the oil pump, ( it was already pretty far in), but is there a possibliity that a seal or something is bad and causing leaks, or possibly the oil pump is letting oil leak through after she is sitting for a while?[attach=0]

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[Ohio HD]

Sounds like the check ball, seat and spring need attention. Usually the culprit. 



Brian

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[easyricer]

 
When I brought my 50 back to life, several times over the years before I owned it, it would dump oil out on the ground for almost 15 minutes while idling. After it quit puking, and the oil got good and warm, I'd change the oil, ride it a while and then change it again. It became almost a yearly ritual for me to drop by my buddies house and get the old gal back running again for him to ride it about 30 miles then put it back up.
I've found that running about 2 oil changes of Castrol 20w50 through it removes all the sludge and grime build up really well, running about 1/2hour to an hour between the oil changes. It's a very high detergent oil. Then switch back to what ever heavy oil you were using. In mine right now is Penrite 50w70 and she ran it wonderfully. Minimal clatter, no smoke and burned much less oil than it has in the past. I'll be ordering a couple more 5 liter bottles of it soon.
EASY

[Pan Crazy]

Thanks Ohio HD and Easyricer.  Is there a particular procedure for cleaning the check ball, seat and spring, or do I just pull them, clean them with gas or carb cleaner, and reinstall?  Should that spring be any certain length and does too long or too short cause certain problems.  I assume that too short would cause the ball not to seat and therefore leak, but you know what assumming does.

[rbabos]

Thanks Ohio HD and Easyricer.  Is there a particular procedure for cleaning the check ball, seat and spring, or do I just pull them, clean them with gas or carb cleaner, and reinstall?  Should that spring be any certain length and does too long or too short cause certain problems.  I assume that too short would cause the ball not to seat and therefore leak, but you know what assumming does.

Inspect the ball and seat for pitting. Worst case remove the pump and lap the seat. If you have a spare ball around bond to a stick or solder it to a tube for your tool. Gently tap a good ball into the seat afterwards with a bronze bar. This levels the score marks from lapping and gives a perfect seal.
Ron

[easyricer]

There are a few ways to do it. First off do it during an oil change, makes much less mess if the tank is empty. While you have the tank drained, flush it out with gas or kerosene, might help to take it off so you can shake the snot out of it to dislodge the grime that builds up in the bottom of it. (that's usually what causes the check ball issues)
When that is done, remove the spring and check ball (a good pencil magnet helps a bunch there) Inspect the check ball for ANY damage. Any scratch or ding you can feel with a fingernail will cause a leaking check valve. If you need another one, you should be able to find them at a local hardware store or bearing supply house. Spray the seat very well with carb or brake cleaner, a cotton swap will also help here a bunch. With a light, look inside for any marks or cracks. The seat should look like a mirror polished ring.
If the check ball is undamaged, drop it in there and using a brass drift (something softer than the bearing, no steel punches) give it a couple of light taps, no hammer needed. Then reassemble and fill the tank with fresh oil.
If the seat is damaged, you can weld a ball bearing to a small rod and use it to lap the seat with lapping compound. Do this ONLY with the oil pump disassembled, off the motor. You really don't want any lapping compound in the motor.
EASY

[Pan Crazy]

OK.  thanks so much for the info. I checked the ball and it looks good.  I will have to go get a brass drift for phase two. 
While digging through the manual, I found the oil screen cap, spring, and seat, and pulled it to inspect it.  (See pic.)  There was nothing in there.  No spring, no screen, no seats.  Obviously this is a mistake.  Can I be missing them (hard to see or retreave) or are they actually missing, and if so, what are the consequences of me running her without them?

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[Ohio HD]

Thanks Ohio HD and Easyricer.  Is there a particular procedure for cleaning the check ball, seat and spring, or do I just pull them, clean them with gas or carb cleaner, and reinstall?  Should that spring be any certain length and does too long or too short cause certain problems.  I assume that too short would cause the ball not to seat and therefore leak, but you know what assumming does.

Here's a link to an Evo I had the same problem with, I would recommend pulling the pump and inspecting all of the tolerances anyway, then you can lap the seat with a push rod, that works best.

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,53006.msg557433.html#msg557433

[Ohio HD]

#1 in the picture is the check ball, and the seat is cut into the pump body below the ball. Lap the seat, and replace the spring and ball too.

FYI, your pump may not look 100% like this one.

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[Pan Crazy]

I pulled that one and used a magnet to get the ball out and inspected it.  Looked pretty good.  I then pulled this one, the oil screen cap, and there was no screen, spring, or seat in there.  I even used a little allen wrench to stick in there and see if it would grab the screen or spring, and there is nothing there.  Again, what are the consequinces of me running the bike without the screen or spring or seats?  What does that screen actually do?  I was going to run up to my local shop and grab a new set up and just install them in that hole as shown in the Clymer Manual.

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[easyricer]

On my 76, I found some small hairy looking stuff in the screen a couple of times. My guess was from the fiber oil filter that I was using. I replaced to a paper type and found nothing else since. The screen is there to catch small debris from the oil tank and oil pump before it clogs up the small lifter and rocker passages.
EASY

[Hog54]

Does the bike have solid lifters in it?If so,thats why somebody took the screen out.The screen is only there for hydraulics.