'86 FXR sprocket nut upgrade?

[DynaPat]

I've recently acquired a 1986 FXRS and will have a few questions, but I'll start here.
I'm taking the primary apart to replace a few leaky seals, and to just check things out. I believe this bike has been neglected over the years, but for the $$ I'm quite happy. The drive pulley sprocket nut was loose, in fact it was unscrewed and the funky little screw that lies against the flat of the nut that I guess is supposed to retain it (per manual) is broke off. Easy "Potty mouth" to fix, not the issue. Is  there any reason not to upgrade this with locking plate like my 96 FXD has?

[FSG]

No problem, go for it.

I've jut got myself some Sprocket Lock Nuts from 3guyz 

http://www.3guyz.com/vtwin-motorcycles-topmenu

[DynaPat]

No problem, go for it.

I've jut got myself some Sprocket Lock Nuts from 3guyz 

http://www.3guyz.com/vtwin-motorcycles-topmenu

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AHH! Excellent. For some reason I thought that solution was more expensive. 

I'll be ordering two. One because I need one, and one because if I have a spare, I'll never ever need another one. Insurance. 

[Dan89flstc]

You should also replace the pulley, spacer and oil seal with the upgraded parts. The nut alone is not the soultion. 

[DynaPat]

You should also replace the pulley, spacer and oil seal with the upgraded parts. The nut alone is not the soultion.

I bought a new seal but the pulley spacer looked just fine.  The splines on the pulley and output shaft look near perfect. I don't think it was running loose very long. What do you suggest as an upgrade?

I took the spacer to work and looked at the ring in it that was polished from the lip of the old seal under a microscope. Looked pretty good I thought. Visually with the unaided eye it looked like it was worn but under the scope it looked fine. The broke off screw also came out quite easily. Drilled from the back side, and as soon as the drill took a bite the screw spun out.

As best as I can tell, the bike has a mere 44,000 miles on it, assuming the speedo is working and hasn't been disconnected. OH, and one other thing, I do indeed have the shop and parts manuals.

TNX again folks.

[tomfiii]

The upgrade has more width on splines,condition of splines needs to be checked for looseness by feel not sight.Hope you don't have two piece drive gear AMHIK.

[Dan89flstc]

The upgraded parts are: a pulley that is thicker at the spline area, a shorter/wider spacer (shorter, to make up for the thicker pulley, and wider, to help prevent the pulley from wobbling, and an oil seal with a larger inside diameter to accommodate the new spacer.

There is also a new nut lock, which is secured by two bolts.

The upgraded parts are available from the dealer as a kit for the earlier bikes, but if you buy parts for late `94 and up (5 speed) you will get the upgraded parts.

Anytime you have the bike disassembled to the point where the pulley is removed, you should replace the spacer, quad seal and big oil seal, even if there is no leak...

[DynaPat]

The upgrade has more width on splines,condition of splines needs to be checked for looseness by feel not sight.Hope you don't have two piece drive gear AMHIK.

Oh nuts. Guess I should take the cover off and inspect. I'm not sure how to tell. FWIW, There isn't much slop or backlash in the splines, but I think I'm going to upgrade anyway.

Thanks.

[DynaPat]

The upgraded parts are: a pulley that is thicker at the spline area, a shorter/wider spacer (shorter, to make up for the thicker pulley, and wider, to help prevent the pulley from wobbling, and an oil seal with a larger inside diameter to accommodate the new spacer.

There is also a new nut lock, which is secured by two bolts.

The upgraded parts are available from the dealer as a kit for the earlier bikes, but if you buy parts for late `94 and up (5 speed) you will get the upgraded parts.

Thanks again.
Anytime you have the bike disassembled to the point where the pulley is removed, you should replace the spacer, quad seal and big oil seal, even if there is no leak...

OK Dan89flstc. Sounds like the right thing to do. My only concern are the splines on the output shaft being machined deep or long enough to accommodate the thicker section of the newer pulley.

I checked, and the spacer measured 2.063 OD x .841 thick, which makes it the stock spacer for that MY I guess. The thickness of the pulley in the splined area measured .520" with a hastily performed check with calipers.

[hogpipes1]

The  upgraded new  style pulley is the only way to go . my  mistake $$$ was just  putting on a new style nut lock plate  w/ extra screw on OE pulley . 10kmi's later the nut started rocking itself off the main gear threads leaking oil ,and  finally striping the teeth out of the pulley leaving me along side the rd. 5 mi's from home after a 800 mi trip .  the main gear threads were ruined so complete trans tear down . no warning other than oil leak which i planed on fixing when back.          85FXRT never  driven hard. so point is don't plan on the soft teeth and narrow hub on the OE pulley to last for ever .That's the reason h-d went to the better set up .

[DynaPat]

Thanks again everyone for the advice.

Bit the bullet and ordered a new (upgraded) sprocket, spacer, seal, and a bunch of other stuff. Already had a primary gasket set on hand, so that's done too. I figure since I'm there, I'll replace the primary bearing and race, both ordered.

Now for my next trick, I will attempt to extract the starter motor itself. The previous owner put a pneumatic quick-disconnect fitting on the oil tank presumably to make oil changes neater and cleaner, but blocks the starter removal. That and there's a hose that looks like a vent hose from the tranny cover that blocks the starter from exiting. All good clean fun. I find most of this sort of thing therapeutic.

[Dan89flstc]

My only concern are the splines on the output shaft being machined deep or long enough to accommodate the thicker section of the newer pulley.

No problem there, they did not change the spline size or length of the drive end of the main drive gear.

[capnfred]

What technique did the PO use to close off the air line fitting.... mine just put a length of hose with a bolt in the end and a hose clamp....does make it easy to change the oil.... I replaced the hex head bolts on my starter with allens, then an 3/8" drive 1/4" allen with a swivel and an extension make it easy to get the back bolt out without having to move the oil bag....