'75 FXE ideas to bounce by collective

[kajutisg]

I FINALLY got the oil oil tank out today.  What a PITA job to do that.  Was MUCH easier after I removed coil & its bracketry out of the way, & cut the old melted wiring harness out of the way.  So I had a couple of really shot rubber mounts on the oil tank/battery tray assembly.

Anyhow, now that I can see how the wiring was routed beneath the oil tank/battery tray, I definitely want to clean that up, 'cause they had wires sitting on top of the clutch release cable, & just laying about.  Just friction-related accident waiting to happen IMO.  Picture attached shows what was beneath oil tank/battery tray assembly.

I'll be making up custom wiring for the bike anyhow & will be using 4 AWG for the starter to solenoid, solenoid to battery & solenoid to starter relay connections (I'll get a chunk of fusible link for the solenoid to starter relay portion per the H-D manual).  I figure I'll route the cables differently, as much I can, with clamps to secure them out of the way of moving parts like the clutch release arm & cable, & keeping them away from the final drive chain & such.  Still a bit more investigation to do on this front, like getting chrome cap off starter solenoid, & determining the lug sizes I'll have to order when I order the 4 AWG cable & stuff.

Anyone on the forum ever rewired their scoot like this?

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[kajutisg]

I didn't like the Mickey Mouse little horn that used to dangle off the left side of the engine, so I've got this old replica horn that I figure I'll mount on the frame front where the oil cooler used to mount.  I figure it should be rubber mounted (currently have installed with good condition used rubber mount) but maybe it doesn't have to be?


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[kajutisg]

And once I'd removed the coil from its stock location, I figured I'd investigate relocating the coil to the left side of the engine, just below where the OEM-style ignition switch is going to be (previous owner had bent switch tab on motor mount out of the way of fat bob tank, so I straightened it out).  I've seen kits on the Internet that make fancy chromed boxes in all kinds of styles for relocating ignition switches & coils to this location, but I'm going old school & just want a suitable bracket to mount the coil off the motor mount so you can see that Accel yellow in all its glory.  I'll have to get a couple of custom made plug wires with right angle boots to plug into the coil, but it should look pretty nice when completed.

I thought about rubber mounting the coil, but it wasn't rubber mounted when it was on the frame downtube area, so it shouldn't need it here, right?

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[kajutisg]

As far as the coil mounting goes, I did some more searching on the 'net & see that there's lots of companies making upper motor mounts that can support coils with our without ignition switches, so I guess rubber mounting the coil isn't required.

[Wicked]

To do what you want with the coil just get a combo motor mount/coil bracket from the aftermarket. I use the heavyduty ones made for shovels... Then get a plug wire set for a FXR, they'll do exactly what you want....


modify to say we was typing at same time...

[kajutisg]

Thanks.  I'll look into picking up a set of Accel yellow FXR wires, to match the coil, & look for a heavy-duty motor mount with coil & ignition switch support (was looking at one elsewhere on web when your reply came through).

[One4Tone]

had a coil come disloged from a fairly new coil braket..a few extra spotwelds and some rust paint..may come in handy...rubber mounting may take out some vibrations..got a 75 fx..as well..altough the fxe battery tray , battery ,and top cover and strap in on the agenda...especially if  I add electric start.....but for now the kicker still works..

[76shuvlinoff]

 Yeah snaking the oil tank out can be a bitch, it's like they built the bike around it.

Over the years I've been through a pile of those rubber isolators.  Mine is an FLH with a tractor battery to support and nothing is really stock anymore so I fashioned some new brackets and doubled up on the isolators in a couple spots. I have not had any trouble in 30,000 miles but if I have to get in there for anything she'll get all new isolators just because.  I don't really know where to get "good" ones.

If you are gong to custom wire it then it's all up to you. Run it anyway you want and secure it the best you can (I love black zip ties) near the connections to eliminate vibration and work hardening of the connections. It will pay off in spades over the long run.

Mark

[kajutisg]

Yeah, those rubber isolators take a beating, subject to heat, vibration & the occasional bit of oil that gets their way.  I purchased the heavy duty ones from J&P.

From research on the 'net I see that the world has shifted from the view of crimp & solder all connections, to really crimp well & use heat shrink.  Some of the new crimping tools work so well it almost looks like the wire strands fuse together.  So I'm still researching where I'll order my marine primary wire from (mostly 16 AWG) & what crimping tool(s) I'll order & from where.  Up here in Canada is a tad expensive for my liking, so it'll be most likely from USA.  Adhesive filled shrink tubing terminals are being investigated, too.  Will be looking into tubing in which to wrap wires as they go about the frame, & yes, nylon tywraps are my friend, but I'll also be looking at rubber line stainless steel clamps to secure wires in those areas where tywraps aren't suitable.

As far as kick starting, I figure on changing from the early kick lever (that gets in my way when I'm riding) to the later model lever that folds in tighter.  I've only kick started the bike once, just so I could say I could, & it wasn't that bad to get started (ignition off, kick a couple times, ignition on, 1 kick).  But I have a bad left knee (medial miniscus?) so have to be careful with kicking.

[76shuvlinoff]

I have some of the crimp then heat shrink connectors that have the adhesive in them. Those make a seriously strong connection. I have had them so long I can't even remember where I got em.

  I never could kick my S&S mill. It used to have 205 cyl psi and it would just hang my 185 lbs in mid air then I was told my older Dyna 2000i ignition doesn't fire on the first rev anyhow. I really don't know if that's true or not but I am going with that story....

- Mark

[kajutisg]

I was around 180 lb when I was in high school back in the '70's, & have only gone UP in weight since then (not walking or bicycling around like I did back then).  Now I'm approaching double that (working on losing weight after many years of desk job), so I have the weight, but the bum knee kinda hampers too much kicking.  Plus there's making sure I kick carefully so that I don't gouge my calf on something sticking out on the bike.

[HotRodShovel]

It looks to me like some of the wiring is dangerously close to the rear header.  I route my wiring to be as clear as possible from heated surfaces.

[kajutisg]

Some of the wiring & hoses are in the picture laying on or near the rear exhaust, 'cause I laid them there to get them out of the way while removing the oil tank.  Yes, I will be routing them as far as away from direct sources of heat as I can.  There's another good reason for using marine wire, for its higher heat resistance as well as oil & water resistance.  I will also investigate using heat resistant loom to protect wiring.

If you want to see a bad routing of a brake line, see the attached pic of how a previous owner routed the rear brake line, just above the front exhaust pipe (I really do not like this routing) & just by the rear tire where it actually rubbed now & then.  I definitely need to re-do the rear brake line(s).  I'm thinking of hard line from master cylinder back to a T block, where the pressure switch will be, then flexible line to swing arm & to caliper.  But I cannot find pre-made rear brake lines so I'll have to go with fabricating my own, like this previous owner did (I think this might be Goodridge line?).

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[HotRodShovel]

Gottch ya... yeah it wouldn't last but a moment on that pipe..  Bad brake line too I agree.  All mine are made up of banjo bolts and Barnett line. I don't have any pre-made brake lines.

[Ohio HD]

As far as those rubber isolators, someone, maybe Drag used to sell a heavy duty version, they held up great!

Also those isolators are common parts used to mount small motors, air conditioning compressors, etc. they're a dime a dozen from industrial supply.

[easyricer]

Russel makes some really nice stainless steel braided lines that use AN-3 fittings and every adapter, splitter block, banjo bolt that you can imagine! A little bit costly but worth every penny. You should be able to find them in J&P, Bikers Choice, Drag and anyone else who sells motorcycle parts. Otherwise, you can take your specs to just about any NAPA and have the line you wish made.
NAPA also has the Marine wires and connectors but they cost quite a bit. Since it is a one time investment, just weigh your options of getting them over the counter or waiting for the big brown truck and hoping it's the right part. Either way you will be happy with the end result. Almost all electrical supply houses carry a very large assortment of heatshrink tubing.  The electrical supply house will also have the stainless steel wire clamps with rubber lining.
EASY

[easyricer]

That kicker that folds nicely up to the side of the bike, is known as an ankle breaker. (personal opinion) If I couldn't have the older style, I wouldn't have one at all. If it was only there for emergency use, take it off and toss it in a saddlebag.
EASY