Cam and lifter questions

[lengbyroadking]

I have been reading that lifters should be changed at about 30,000 miles. I now have just under 80,000 on my 87 FLT. The bike is all stock and it's time to upgrade a few things. I am switching to a CV carb and manifold and need to change out the lifters. Should I be concerned with the cam bearings also? Should I do a cam change at the same time? What cam would you recomend? I ride about 5000 miles per summer and normally 2 up. Keep in mind that I'm not trying to make a speed deamon, just looking for good performance and reliability.

[dave_9113]

Thanks for giving proof to us stock guys that lifters can last longer than 30K miles.  Good to see another cared for Evo. 

Now if you are going to freshen her up and keep close to stock, it's pretty simple.  A bolt in cam such as Ev-13 or EV-27 will work for your FLT.  If you change your cam, you would change the following also:  1) cam bearing-torrington/timkin 2) new lifter assembly 3) adjustable PR (but not required) 4) metal breather gear (just to get rid of your plastic one) 5) new gaskets

You can do more.  It just depends on how freshened up you want.  Lots of recents posts for cam selection stuff. 

dave

[gryphon]

Since you're gonna change your lifters you should really consider a set or quick-install push rods. Otherwise you will have to pull your rocker boxes since you can't get your lifters out without pulling the lifter blocks. With the quickie's you can just cut your old push rods and later install the new ones. Also, consider a V-Thunder 3010. Good performance and designed to be very quiet.

[lengbyroadking]

Thanks for the reponse. I found a kit on ebay that included an andrews 27 cam, adjustable pushrods, shims, o-rings, inner bearing and gaskets. I need more info on doing this job myself. I know I will need to find a bearing removal tool but what's with the shims? How much end play should I allow? Does anyone have a website to answer these questions before I get in too deep? Will this effect the dependability of the bike at all?

[tinkerman]

Check out "Mild build on my FXR4" by FXR4Mikey in this section (Evo)

He is posting photos as he does his rebuild. The thread is getting a little clunky loading because of all the photos but lots of good insight there. Shop Manual is a good thing. Nightrider is a good site for general and specific info. Do a bunch of research while your waiting for your parts and then any questions, post them here. Great site, good bunch of folk, good info...lots of different opinions.

Don't let Panzer bother ya, he doesn't bite.....very often

Tinkerman

[fxr4mikey]

Thanks for the reponse. I found a kit on ebay that included an andrews 27 cam,

sounds like the same site that I found when I started shopping for my stuff .... call them, email them, ask if they offer different cams in that package. If so, ask which ones .... pick one that matches your riding style.

adjustable pushrods, shims, o-rings, inner bearing and gaskets.

You'll need all of that, and then some .... once your start into your build you'll find other 'little things' that you didn't know about, that you should replace .. not required, just a good decision to make.

I need more info on doing this job myself.

Lots of threads around that will provide you with all the information that you need ... here's the one on my build .

http://harleytechtalk.net/htt/index.php?topic=5789.0

I've tried to include text and pictures to help folks just like you ..... I hope to finish it up this weekend, so there's LOTS more pics to follow...

I know I will need to find a bearing removal tool

Check out the link I just posted .... you can get the tool that you need to remove that bearing for "FREE" at Auto Zone ...... I've given you the part number, and pictures, that you'll want/need when you go to Auto Zone

but what's with the shims?

The shims that are referenced are used for controlling the side to side end play of the cam shaft.  If you are putting in a 'after market' cam shaft, it will be shorter than the stock one. You will have to add a piece of 'shim stock' between the end of the cam shaft and the thrust washer in order to obtain the appropriate amount of end play. If I recall correctly, the SM allows a LOT of tolerance in the end play.  Most of the builders will tell you to adjust to .010 inches.  I've included pictures of this in my thread about how I'm doing my build ....

How much end play should I allow?

.010 inches


Does anyone have a website to answer these questions before I get in too deep?

Posted above, and Tinkerman also posted up a link .....

Will this effect the dependability of the bike at all?

NO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Dependability/Reliability was, and is, the key component consideration in doing my build.   I ofter ride THOUSANDS of miles from home !!!  My bike MUST be reliable and MUST have common, easy to find, replacement parts.  So that IF, I should break down, I can easily get parts and get back on the road.  The build must ALSO be mild enough, for me, to run regular grade gasoline !!!

Best of Luck to you in your efforts .... !!!

If you need/want to ask questions and discuss it on the phone, PM me and I'll send ya my phone number

Mikey

[fxr4mikey]

Check out "Mild build on my FXR4" by FXR4Mikey in this section (Evo)

~~

The thread is getting a little clunky loading because of all the photos but lots of good insight there.

!!

Tinkerman

What's gonna happen when I put the rest of the pics in there 

[tinkerman]

Gonna be able to eat a bag of pop corn while the thread loads up.

Keep her coming Mikey.

Tink

[ClassicRider2002]

I am thinkin.....another mouse is gettin hungry..........

Don't worry it happens to all of us....

CLICK HERE

Just do your homework before you start spendin $$$$$$ !!!!!!

Regards,

"Classic"