Lets talk suspension upgrades for a bagger

[MarcV125]

Marc, 
        The Ohlins steering damper you pictured should have an adjustment knob on the end you can't see.  I replaced the non-adjustable junker that came on my 916 with an Ohlins that looks similar other than having a different sliding clamp mount.  The stock damper on the Duc rubbed the tank and had a problem controlling a little handlebar flutter induced by carrying the front light/skimming on corner exit after hitting a ripple bump...Ohlins damper on a fairly low setting cured it completely.   Might be a little pricey but I'm bet'n it would help when the bars start wag'n.    Rick

Yes there is..opposite side of the damper is a gold knob for adjust-ability. I had dampers on all my sportbikes as well, and really helped control those power wheelie-tank slapper moments. Will it help on the Harley?..i guess it couldn't hurt..

Max when you replaced your rear bushings and shimmed them, what mileage were you at that point on the bike.?

Marc

[Admiral Akbar]

Marc, 
        The Ohlins steering damper you pictured should have an adjustment knob on the end you can't see.  I replaced the non-adjustable junker that came on my 916 with an Ohlins that looks similar other than having a different sliding clamp mount.  The stock damper on the Duc rubbed the tank and had a problem controlling a little handlebar flutter induced by carrying the front light/skimming on corner exit after hitting a ripple bump...Ohlins damper on a fairly low setting cured it completely.   Might be a little pricey but I'm bet'n it would help when the bars start wag'n.    Rick

Yes there is..opposite side of the damper is a gold knob for adjust-ability. I had dampers on all my sportbikes as well, and really helped control those power wheelie-tank slapper moments. Will it help on the Harley?..i guess it couldn't hurt..

I've not had much luck with dampers stopping the dance but it still may be worth a try.

Max when you replaced your rear bushings and shimmed them, what mileage were you at that point on the bike.?

Marc

Originally I shimmed the rubbers at about 15K.. Replaced them at 52K.  The new ones were a bit thicker then the old.. Not sure if the old compressed or the new are thicker to start.. I suspect a little of both..  The main idea of the drunken camel thread was to identify looseness in manufacturing tolerances and correct them. I was trying to find out why some bike wobbled and others didn't.. I would say looseness, tire condition/ selection, steering bearing adjustment and alignment cover 98% of the issues.. The rest show up when you really push the bike.

Max


Max

[04 SE Deuce]

Yeah,  With the steering damper I was thinking more about keeping Marc on the piggy than making the piggy behave...although it should help some.  Treating the symptom instead of curing it.  These things are designed for pig pen speed not horse track.  Rick

[MarcV125]

Marc, 
        The Ohlins steering damper you pictured should have an adjustment knob on the end you can't see.  I replaced the non-adjustable junker that came on my 916 with an Ohlins that looks similar other than having a different sliding clamp mount.  The stock damper on the Duc rubbed the tank and had a problem controlling a little handlebar flutter induced by carrying the front light/skimming on corner exit after hitting a ripple bump...Ohlins damper on a fairly low setting cured it completely.   Might be a little pricey but I'm bet'n it would help when the bars start wag'n.    Rick

Yes there is..opposite side of the damper is a gold knob for adjust-ability. I had dampers on all my sportbikes as well, and really helped control those power wheelie-tank slapper moments. Will it help on the Harley?..i guess it couldn't hurt..

I've not had much luck with dampers stopping the dance but it still may be worth a try.

Max when you replaced your rear bushings and shimmed them, what mileage were you at that point on the bike.?

Marc

Originally I shimmed the rubbers at about 15K.. Replaced them at 52K.  The new ones were a bit thicker then the old.. Not sure if the old compressed or the new are thicker to start.. I suspect a little of both..  The main idea of the drunken camel thread was to identify looseness in manufacturing tolerances and correct them. I was trying to find out why some bike wobbled and others didn't.. I would say looseness, tire condition/ selection, steering bearing adjustment and alignment cover 98% of the issues.. The rest show up when you really push the bike.

Max


Max

Originally I shimmed the rubbers at about 15K.. Replaced them at 52K.  The new ones were a bit thicker then the old.. Not sure if the old compressed or the new are thicker to start.. I suspect a little of both..  The main idea of the drunken camel thread was to identify looseness in manufacturing tolerances and correct them. I was trying to find out why some bike wobbled and others didn't.. I would say looseness, tire condition/ selection, steering bearing adjustment and alignment cover 98% of the issues.. The rest show up when you really push the bike.

Max

totally agree..I think i am just at the point of pushing her too hard..have 34k hard miles on her now so when im bored i might at well replace those rear bushings with OEM bushings to be safe..Max appreciate your info..

Yeah,  With the steering damper I was thinking more about keeping Marc on the piggy than making the piggy behave...although it should help some.  Treating the symptom instead of curing it.  These things are designed for pig pen speed not horse track.  Rick

Totally with you on this Rick..Couldnt have said it better

[hbkeith]

I copied the Hillbilly shock press , put monotubes in front and 10 weight in rear shocks ,definant improvement 

[No Cents]

I copied the Hillbilly shock press , put monotubes in front and 10 weight in rear shocks ,definant improvement 

[strokerjlk]

I copied the Hillbilly shock press , put monotubes in front and 10 weight in rear shocks ,definant improvement