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2007 sportster rocker box removal

Started by mokeypoole, October 28, 2013, 04:03:50 AM

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mokeypoole

Need to change the rocker box gaskets on a buddies 2007 sportster.  Looks like it is just the middle gasket leaking.  Do I need to pull the tank to get just the top cover off?  Also, there is a wire going into the middle of the rear cylinder.  Where does that disconnect?  I have changed the gaskets on my 95 before but never a newer style.  If anyone would list the steps and stuff needed to remove to pull the front and rear rocker box covers on a 2007, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks
Mike Poole

Panzer

 The front box is the most difficult and you will almost (I say, almost) say it's impossible to remove, unless you remove the engine.
No engine removal is necessary.

First off get your allen wrenches ready and of course the inner and outer gaskets.
Remove the upper engine support black plate and torsion bar, this bar has ball joints on both ends.
Have crash bars?   If so remove the top bolts and loosen the bottom bolts so you can pull the bars way at the top.
Loosen the rear bolt on the gas tank and remove the front tank bolt this will allow you to raise the front of the tank to give you enough room to jack up the rocker cover and room for your hands.
Yes, I said jack up, because you'll have to pry up the cover to get it pass the backbone. (center frame)
Now the fun part............with all the allen head bolts removed, loosed the cover with a gentle tap of wooden hammer handle.
You'll have to play with the cover by turning it as best you can to find out the logical way it will remove.
It's like a puzzle at this point.
It will come out from the air filter side.   You will also be FLITTING from one side of the bike to the other trying to get the cover in the right position for removal.
Remember the box cover comes out from the air filter side and a little (jacking) prying will remove the cover.
Careful with prying so you don't mar anything.

I like to use clear silicone on the gaskets to insure a good seal, but that's up to you.
The cover will go back in reverse order as I have outlined above.
Tighten the allen bolts in a crisscross manner, snug at first then back around to tighten.
Reinstall all the bolts that were removed or loosened.
It may help you to use a rod inserted in the front and rear tank bolt holes just for alignment and chase it with the bolts, if you have removed them.
As an after thought, you may want to put that 6" torsion bar (I forget what Harley calls it) in a vise and loosen up the two ball joint ends to insure it works as its suppose to.
Use the shaft of a screwdriver inserted half way through the ball joints and pry in all directions to see if it moves freely.

Although I haven't removed the rear rocker box on mine, it looks a lot easier then the front.
The job is not hard by any means.
If you need further help send me a PM.

I hope my explanation helps and good luck.  :up:


Panzer
Everyone wants to change the world but, no one wants to change the toilet paper.

mokeypoole

changed them both in about 1 hour tonight.  Remember, I just had to replace the top gaskets, not the bottoms

Pulled seat and tank.

Disconnected the wire going through the rear and pulled the top cover off.  No problem.  Put the new gaskets in and buttoned it back up.

I cheated a little on the front.  Being as I just had to do the top gaskets, I did not remove a bunch of things.  I just took the 4 bolts out of the top and lifted the cover up.  I removed the two gaskets and never took the cover out from under the frame.  PUt the new gaskets in and buttoned it up.

If I would have had to remove the cover completely, I can see where the motor mount and some other stuff would have to have had to come off.  All that electrical stuff under that plastic cover would have had to have been moved just to get the top cover out.  Kind of intimidating. 

Any way, after about an hour, it was back on the road. 

Road it 4 miles and the darn kick stand spring fell off.  I thought the engine had let loose.  Looked down and it was dangling.  Luckily I only had to ride about 1/2 a mile so I just held it up with my foot.

If it ain't one thing, it is two.

Panzer



Well done bro.
As they say...."Shi$ happens".
Thanks for the feed back.
Everyone wants to change the world but, no one wants to change the toilet paper.

Powerglides

If you need more room, it's not difficult to remove the ignition switch, coil, and a couple of screws holding the electrical trunking together.
Be interesting to see if the 2014 Canbus models have more room in this area.
Boz

hdmanillac

Quote from: Powerglides on November 09, 2013, 12:33:38 AM
If you need more room, it's not difficult to remove the ignition switch, coil, and a couple of screws holding the electrical trunking together.
Be interesting to see if the 2014 Canbus models have more room in this area.

Exact.

I did this operation few years ago on my XL1200R 2007 to replace stock rocker box gaskets by Cometic ones.

Some pictures on my blog http://www.hdmanillac.com/article-mon-sportster-xl1200r-2007-remplacement-des-joints-de-cache-culbuteur-98557022.html

Good luck

:up:
2017 FLHR + 2019 FXLR + 2007 XL1200R

mokeypoole

Quote from: Powerglides on November 09, 2013, 12:33:38 AM
If you need more room, it's not difficult to remove the ignition switch, coil, and a couple of screws holding the electrical trunking together.
Be interesting to see if the 2014 Canbus models have more room in this area.

how do you get that electrical trunking apart.  It looked as if it was tiewrapped together and had some fasteners through it that you would break if you pulled it apart.

hdmanillac

Yes I had to remove 1 or 2 plastic fasteners.

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:up:

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2017 FLHR + 2019 FXLR + 2007 XL1200R

Powerglides

Yeah, I'd forgot about the plastic clips as well.
Boz