New 95" build, ticking and oil light on

[Nilla]

Just finished up my 95" build.  SE flat tops, Andrews 21 cams, .030" HG, Gaterman 1023 lifters, and new but stock design cam chain tensioners.  Fires right up, but is ticking badly.  I'm not that concerned by this, as the cam swap I did for a friend took a good 3-4 heat cycles before the lifters pumped up.  What concerns me, is that the oil light on the dash continues to stay on.  I have run it for 2 cycles at this point, probably 2 minutes just idle speed for the first one and 1 minute for the second, just idle speed there too.  The oil light stays on. 

Am I being needlessly paranoid?  What should I be checking?  How can I make sure oil is flowing as it should be?  What else should I be checking?

[Admiral Akbar]

Just finished up my 95" build.  SE flat tops, Andrews 21 cams, .030" HG, Gaterman 1023 lifters, and new but stock design cam chain tensioners.  Fires right up, but is ticking badly.  I'm not that concerned by this, as the cam swap I did for a friend took a good 3-4 heat cycles before the lifters pumped up.  What concerns me, is that the oil light on the dash continues to stay on.  I have run it for 2 cycles at this point, probably 2 minutes just idle speed for the first one and 1 minute for the second, just idle speed there too.  The oil light stays on. 

Am I being needlessly paranoid?  What should I be checking?  How can I make sure oil is flowing as it should be?  What else should I be checking?

Check to make sure you tightened the cam plate and the oil pump..

Max

[Nilla]

I did. 100%, torqued to factory spec.  Also to add for more info bike is a 2000 RK, carbed.  When I aligned the oil pump I used the Georges Garage oil pump alignment screws and also spun the rear wheel with the bike in gear while I ran in the factory bolts.

[Merc63]

Ditch the light and get an oil pressure gauge threaded into where the light sensor goes.

[saddle tramp]

Just disconnect the oil light switch, if the light stays on you have it grounded somewhere. If it goes out then get a pressure gauge on there and check for pressure.

[flhtruss]

Hi Nilla after you figure out weather or not you have oil pressure. I kept the factory oil light and spliced in the mechanical pressure guage. Good o ring on the pump pick up tube right. Doubt that the small feed line under the cover is the problem but worth a look if it's cracked think I read some where someone having a problem like what you are sayin. Also I would not run the bike till you know for sure it's pumping oil.
Russ

Hi Max how you doin

[Nilla]

Yes, put a new oil ring on the pump pickup.  Anyone have a good source for a reasonably priced oil pressure gauge?

[Merc63]

Auto meter makes one, oil filled.  Goes to 50psi,
Summit racing or a local car store should have it.

[Nilla]

JP seems to have a decent one at the right price... Any good?

[Admiral Akbar]

Ditch the light and get an oil pressure gauge threaded into where the light sensor goes.

What good is a oil pressure guage is the light don't go out.. 

Max

[FBobPilot]

I just went through this problem, and the issue was in my Axtell Bypass valve not seated closed. Did you pull out and reinstall your bypass? My thoughts are if you never had issues with that oil pressure light then I doubt it is lying now... might have to have a look under the cam cover.

[prodrag1320]

motor should NEVER be started until oil pressure is verified.the habit of just starting a bike after a build till it builds pressure is not a very good idea at all

[dakota224]

Take the plugs out and spin the motor over & pump up the lifters, then start it.

[BVHOG]

Check your pump assembly, chances are you have the pump capped with the separator plate, the assembly from the bottom of the pump cup are as follows
Thick scavenge gears, spacer plate, wavy washer, spacer plate , thin pressure gears.  Very common mistake to install one of the plates as a cap.

[Ajayrk]

Stuck open oil pressure relief plunger.  Remove oil pressure sender and crank engine over with out plugs.  Oil should spurt out.  If not, remove cam plate and make sure the relief plunger is not stuck open. 

Max, I did not call it a check valve.

[Nilla]

Well, this is not what I wanted to hear, guess I'm going back into the cam chest.  I did notice one other weird thing - my neutral indicator light isn't working either, and it always did before. 

[les]

motor should NEVER be started until oil pressure is verified.the habit of just starting a bike after a build till it builds pressure is not a very good idea at all

  Why even go to the next step until completing the pre-requisite, which is priming/pressurizing the oil system prior to starting the engine for the first time?

[Nilla]

motor should NEVER be started until oil pressure is verified.the habit of just starting a bike after a build till it builds pressure is not a very good idea at all

  Why even go to the next step until completing the pre-requisite, which is priming/pressurizing the oil system prior to starting the engine for the first time?

Well, I guess that's on me.  This is my first Harley build and I've never had to take that step on the other motors I've been into.  What is the best way to accomplish this?  Spin the motor over with the plugs out?

[les]

On the new ignition systems, you don't have to ground the plugs against the casing because the ECM will detect that the flywheel is NOT slowing down on the compression stroke...and won't send current to the plugs.  For older models, I use bungee cords around the jugs to hold the plugs against the cylinders.

Yes, you pull the plugs and pull the fuse (or connector apart) for the fuel pump.  Repeat the cycles of cranking the engine for about 10 seconds and waiting about 30 to 60 seconds in between to let the starter cool.  Do this until the pressure comes up.  If you don't get a bite within 10 cycles, walk away for an hour to think about what might be wrong.  Go back and try another 5 times just to be sure.  If still no pressure, there is something that needs to be checking out in the cam chest.

This procedure is really easy to see what is happening on bikes with oil pressure gauges.  After so many cycles, you will see that gauge come off of zero.  That's when you smile, put the plugs back in, and have a chatter free first start.

[calif phil]

Check your pump assembly, chances are you have the pump capped with the separator plate, the assembly from the bottom of the pump cup are as follows
Thick scavenge gears, spacer plate, wavy washer, spacer plate , thin pressure gears.  Very common mistake to install one of the plates as a cap.

  That is my guess

[BUBBIE]

NOT as DUMB as it sounds..... IS There OIL in the bike?

signed....BUBBIE

[jurgie]

Check your pump assembly, chances are you have the pump capped with the separator plate, the assembly from the bottom of the pump cup are as follows
Thick scavenge gears, spacer plate, wavy washer, spacer plate , thin pressure gears.  Very common mistake to install one of the plates as a cap.

This is it seen it done first hand

[Nilla]

NOT as DUMB as it sounds..... IS There OIL in the bike?

signed....BUBBIE

Lol, there's oil in it.  Heading to the shop now, gonna pull the sending unit and see if oil comes out.  Then I'm going to autozone for a pressure gauge.  Hopefully I can get  this nailed down today.

[BUBBIE]

I bought the oil gauge unit that HD sells to fit on the read cylinder valve cover. Fits there nicely and still use the IDIOT light.

signed....BUBBIE

[Nilla]

took the sending unit out, plugs out, cranked the engine - no oil coming out.  I was somewhat hopefull as therre was oil present at the hole, but it is not being pumped out.  Fitted the Autozone pressure gauage, nothing.  Zero. 

After thinking about it I bet I messed up that pump installation.  I remember it had sat for a day or 3 after disassembly before I could get to it, and I remember having to look up howthe pump goes back together.  I probably got it wrong. 

I'd like to check the bypass valve first... that pretty straightforward?  Will it be obviously sticking, etc?  Im not really sure what to look for.