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100 years of oil change method and Rogue Choppers Total Oil Change Kit Method

Started by flhs90, March 09, 2009, 12:26:12 PM

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flhs90

Riders:

Being a little new to Harley oil changing methods coming from Toyota cars, pickups and SUVs I was a little bit curious why the Harley engines evo and backwards in time do not have a crankcase drain like those on the bottom of a car engine's oil pan.

This brings up the advertisement that ran a while back in October 08 American Iron magazine. Page 144 Advertisement pd. for by www.RogueChopper.com
in which Chirs Maida writes his product review.

Long story short he and they maintain that the traditional method of draining the oil "bag" leaves about 24-26 oz. of dirty oil in the dry sump loest portion of the Evo crankcase.

The little "puck" device allows you to remove all of the dirty oil rather than leave 2/3 of a quart of dirty contaminated oil to dilute our fresh oil.

Seems like the old way was good enough for a 100 years, just wanted some feedback on what could be considered "better for a used Evo."

Oh I forgot that the improved way is $59.95 + shipping. It is explained easily enough on their website for anyone interested in "new" technology. Not wanting to beat any dead earlier forms of transportation that run with saddles.

1980 FLH80, 1990 FLHS, 2006 FLSTS<br />Western Oregon

stroker800

   I do what we call a "Heinman" oil change,,,I named it after my friend Earl who showed me the trick..
1 st drain crankcase if possible,,only some after market cases have drains
2nd drain oil outta oil bag,,re install plug when empty
3rd top off oil bag to the full mark
4th remove the oil return line off of oil bag, insert into waste container and start the bike
5th once the clean oil starts coming thru clean, shut off motor and reinstall the return line
6th install ne filter and top off oil,,,run bike and recheck and top off oil..
This is the same as the rogue kit in principal and only costs the extra oil.
Dave

Norton Commando

Your "Heinman" oil change method has been used by old Harley riders for many years, except it was often called a five-quart-oil-change. It's a good procedure and as stroker pointed out, a quart of oil is the only additional cost.
Remember, you can sleep in your car, but you can't drive your house.

stroker800

  I've heard it called that too,,,but it was my friend who showed me,,,so there you have it....So basically who ever teaches me something new will get it named after them....easier for me to remember.....
Dave

96flhpi

Spend your $59.95 on a really nice, gold plated screwdriver then use it to take off your oil return line LIKE STROKER SAID.  Probably makes less of a mess then the "puck" thingy and accomplishes the same thing. 

My $.02.

harleydave51

I have an 89 FXRS with the oil bag under the seat. The drain hose is up kinda high (FXR Owners know what I mean) and never completely drains. I usually drain and fill the bag, then run the bike without the filter (under the seat, under battery) until about a quart comes out, then I put the new filter on.I should take the oil bag off and clean it out.
WTF, Run amuk
89 FXRS
MASShole

harleytoprock

So whats this "little puck device"? I've never seen one. Does anyone have a link for it? Is it gold plated?

Buddy WMC

Quote from: harleydave51 on March 09, 2009, 11:36:28 PM
I have an 89 FXRS with the oil bag under the seat. The drain hose is up kinda high (FXR Owners know what I mean) and never completely drains. I usually drain and fill the bag, then run the bike without the filter (under the seat, under battery) until about a quart comes out, then I put the new filter on.I should take the oil bag off and clean it out.

I know exactly what you mean, a friend has one of those adaptors being discussed and I use that every third change. Usually about 24oz comes out before the oil turns clear. I also cleaned out my oil tank after draining it by plugging everything up except the drain and feed lines. Mineral spirits is cheap and does an amazing job removing any crud. I bought a gallon jug for about $7.00 and used half of that. I just popped the drain and then the feed line at the pump after the tank had mostly drained out. The amazing part is the mess I thought would happen did not.

flhs90

So from what I'm reading I want to do this the easy way. I plan on draining old oil fron tank.

2. Then I'll flush oil tank with kerosine or mineral spirits as mentioned above.

3. Then it's easier for me to remove the filter and catch about 26 oz. of oil coming back from the oil pump to my filter before sthutting down the engine and installing a new filter.

4. Then top off to the fill line on dipstick.

Anybody see any problems with this approach.

Thanks, Dave
1980 FLH80, 1990 FLHS, 2006 FLSTS<br />Western Oregon

Buddy WMC

Dave,
It can be done your way, but I see a considerable mess to clean up. Having a rubber mounted engine, I'm very careful about not getting any leftover oil anywhere near the front engine mount. Other than that, go for it :wink: