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Idle hunting cold

Started by 1stop, October 13, 2014, 06:21:35 PM

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1stop

I got a 110 with 58 se throttlebody and woods 7h cam, d&d pipe. It hunts at idle when cold. Afr is reading around 12 1/2-13 until it gets to temp. Does it need more fuel on warm up?

FLTRI

Idle hunting can be an air leak..
or VEs not calibrated to the cam, exhaust combo...especially around the idle speed to about 1500rpm.
What tuning device? What calibration? Has it been Dyno tuned?
Bob
The best we've experienced is the best we know
Always keep eyes and mind open

1stop

Super tuner and road tuned with twin scan. Don't remember cal number. Computer not with me. Played with iac steps a little. Can reply with cal later. Feel good about intake seals. ( just installed throttlebody ) what is procedure to trouble shoot hunting?

rbabos

Several things. Too rich, too lean, uneven between cyls either tune (air leak) and the timing transitions at those rpms. Warmup table could be too fat as well.
Ron

Mirrmu

Hi,

VE's be the thing to check i reckon
Thanks

rageglide

When I had this problem I pulled fuel from Warmup Steps and it addressed the problem.

1stop

I decreased iac steps to minimum on the whole scale. It hunts a little until around 90 f then idles good. Seems to be the fix for this one. Thanks for the replies

FLTRI

Since the IAC controls idle speed and if minimizing its action your idle becomes more stable this points directly at VE (fueling) around 700-1750 not being correct.
If you will post your calibration maybe we can help you get it corrected rather than simply avoiding the improperly calibrated area.
Bob
The best we've experienced is the best we know
Always keep eyes and mind open

rbabos

Quote from: 1stop on October 25, 2014, 05:46:56 AM
I decreased iac steps to minimum on the whole scale. It hunts a little until around 90 f then idles good. Seems to be the fix for this one. Thanks for the replies
I think what you did is dampen the effects some . The main culprit is still likely as Bob pointed out. Changing the iac points too much can have some ill effects in other areas like the iac follow effect when coming to a stop. Seems I've managed to fk that up at least once.  :hyst:
Ron

harleytuner

If the bike gradually starts idling better as it comes out of warm up enrichment i'd say you are to rich.  If you were to lean the bike would run idle better when you first start it then progressively get worse as it comes off of warm up enrichment and possibly start caughing out of the TB.  To diagnose which cylinder is off you can always put the idle area of your MAP into closed loop and after the bike gets up to temp monitor your o2 integrator to see which cylinder is trying to take fuel away.

To The Max

Hi, I think fuel as well, 12.5 is ok for initial start up cold but should change to 13.5 after 15 to 20 seconds and then to about 14.1 or 14.3 depending on your build. some motors will run well at 14.5 hot but make sure it idles well when warm before you set set your cold start. I set my idle timing at 18 and ramp it up to 20 at about 1300 rpm. I hope its that easy and it wont hurt to try also if it runs nice warm it may not be a air leak good luck. Max