RMS power

[IronMike113]

Ultra maybe you can Explain the Differance In Max power and Rms power for some of the guys with the 200 watt stereos,and let us Really know what we need to power up our 150 Max power speakers,........... 

[Kryingame]

If you really want power, forget those Kappas and go with Biketronics 7.1's in teh fairing; 6.5's in the lowers; Biketronics 4180 amp and Pioneer 6x9's.   That'll make your ride sound like a moving party.

[tdgriff]

If you really want power, forget those Kappas and go with Biketronics 7.1's in teh fairing; 6.5's in the lowers; Biketronics 4180 amp and Pioneer 6x9's.   That'll make your ride sound like a moving party.

have you bin drinking lol Mike said he is a bt man on the thread above this one. that's where they're talking about the Kappas. Lol

[AAWAV]

Ultra maybe you can Explain the Differance In Max power and Rms power for some of the guys with the 200 watt stereos,and let us Really know what we need to power up our 150 Max power speakers,........... 

can you provide a bit more info? maybe below helps...
"standard rule" is to have your amp run 2-2.5 times more RMS power than your speaker can handle from an RMS perspective.
so "ideal" is 200-250 watts RMS to a 100 watt RMS speaker. this gives you so called overhead. As speakers usually can handle (temp) way more, you should not blow them up... all within reason right

[Gannicus]

4 big post already huh AAWAV?  I see you buddy. . .I heard the moderator here is a stand up guy?  Any truth to that?  LOL

[RaceRadio]

Followed the copper wired road to this forum because of UltraNutz.  Nice to see him, along with the other familiar names, that got the wheels turning on my audio upgrade. 

[AAWAV]

Followed the copper wired road to this forum because of UltraNutz.  Nice to see him, along with the other familiar names, that got the wheels turning on my audio upgrade.

I finally get the change to catch up with you LOL... equal start....
darn - am at 92x on the dark side... 95% audio

[Gannicus]

Ultra maybe you can Explain the Differance In Max power and Rms power for some of the guys with the 200 watt stereos,and let us Really know what we need to power up our 150 Max power speakers,........... 

can you provide a bit more info? maybe below helps...
"standard rule" is to have your amp run 2-2.5 times more RMS power than your speaker can handle from an RMS perspective.
so "ideal" is 200-250 watts RMS to a 100 watt RMS speaker. this gives you so called overhead. As speakers usually can handle (temp) way more, you should not blow them up... all within reason right

To add to AAWAV's comments  Peak power is more often than not 2*RMS power. If a speaker is capable of handling for example 200 watts peak power it would only be rated to handle 100 watts RMS. Peak power is often exaggerated by the mfg. to sell speakers. The only "true" measurement is RMS.

[Kryingame]

Ultra maybe you can Explain the Differance In Max power and Rms power for some of the guys with the 200 watt stereos,and let us Really know what we need to power up our 150 Max power speakers,........... 

can you provide a bit more info? maybe below helps...
"standard rule" is to have your amp run 2-2.5 times more RMS power than your speaker can handle from an RMS perspective.
so "ideal" is 200-250 watts RMS to a 100 watt RMS speaker. this gives you so called overhead. As speakers usually can handle (temp) way more, you should not blow them up... all within reason right

Yes, I am drinking.  I'm learning ins and outs of this new forum.  Now KMA...lol

[tdgriff]

Ultra maybe you can Explain the Differance In Max power and Rms power for some of the guys with the 200 watt stereos,and let us Really know what we need to power up our 150 Max power speakers,........... 

can you provide a bit more info? maybe below helps...
"standard rule" is to have your amp run 2-2.5 times more RMS power than your speaker can handle from an RMS perspective.
so "ideal" is 200-250 watts RMS to a 100 watt RMS speaker. this gives you so called overhead. As speakers usually can handle (temp) way more, you should not blow them up... all within reason right

Yes, I am drinking.  I'm learning ins and outs of this new forum.  Now KMA...lol

you are killing me the quote button is on top now not the bottom. Lol

[Makdaddy]

'RMS' Power
Power is simply the product of RMS Volts and RMS Amps, and the resulting figure is 'power'. Not 'RMS Power' - or any of the insane derivatives described above - just 'power'.

The term RMS (Root Mean Squared) can only be applied to voltage or current. The RMS value is determined to be the Alternating Current (AC) equivalent of a Direct Current (DC) which creates the same amount of heat in a load.

For a sine wave, this is the peak value, divided by the square root of 2 - i.e. 1.414 (I shall not bore you with the exact reason for this, but it is a scientifically and mathematically accepted fact).

For a perfect square wave, it is the peak value alone, since if the positive and negative peaks were to be rectified (so as to be the same polarity), the result is DC. This condition (or at least close to it) is quite common with guitar amps (the distortion is part of the sound), but should never occur in Hi-Fi, even briefly.

Power should only ever be measured with no clipping. When an amp clips, there is more available power, but higher distortion. It is not uncommon to see amplifier powers rated at 10% distortion. This is quite unacceptable, as this indicates that there is severe clipping of the signal. A good quality amplifier will have less than 0.1% distortion just before clipping, somewhat higher for push-pull valve amps, and a lot higher for single ended triode valves.

So RMS is what some call True Power .
I base all of my settings and builds on RMS
The total power or Max power is just a rating of what the amp could put out. But as stated it would be unstable and can clip.

Music Power
The music power of an amp is real, and is generally higher than the continuous power. It is measured by using a tone-burst generator, and is the peak power than an amp can supply for (typically) about 10ms. This is quite reasonable, but not terribly useful when it is examined carefully. Since music is very dynamic, with the peak amplitude exceeding the average by 10 to 20dB (depending on the type of music), an amplifier is never called upon to provide full power all the time (at least if clipping is avoided, which should be all the time).

If the power supply is regulated or has considerable excess power capacity, the continuous and music power ratings will be almost identical. The difference was (at one time) measured, and was called 'dynamic headroom'. Few amps have a dynamic headroom of better than 1 or 2dB, and the greater the headroom, usually the cheaper the power supply for the rated power.

An amplifier with a much greater music power than its 'RMS' power usually has a transformer and/or filter capacitor that is too small. In most cases, a 90W (RMS) / 100W (music power) amp will not sound louder than a 90W amp with a regulated supply (so RMS and music power are the same). The extra 10W represents a little under 0.5dB, which is barely audible in a comparative listening test.

Bottom line looks at the True RMS power per channel, Thats what you want
Most or all Class D amps have a regulated Power supply.

[ΚĜΗΟŜΤ]

In not so technical terms......

RMS power is what the speakers and or amplifier can run continuous without blowing.

Max power is what the speakers can handle in short bursts without blowing

Max power ( or max output) for an amp is what it can produce if the gains and any other boost is turned up. Of course if you max power the output you will be either replacing speakers all the time and or replacing the amp or fuses or both..

That is my layman's understanding.

That is why all the talk on here about setting up the head unit to a volume level that does not allow distortion to reach the amp and the amp set up so the amp does not send distortion to the speakers.

SO having a 500 watt amp (say 750 watts max) that has 250 watts rms per channel and you have matched speakers that can handle 250 watts rms  so If all the above is set properly then when you turn your volume up the determined max level (just before distortion) and your amp is set the same way (gains set to just before distortion) you theoretically will never blow your speakers.

Just my two killer bytes.......

[dirtracin23]

In not so technical terms......

RMS power is what the speakers and or amplifier can run continuous without blowing.

Max power is what the speakers can handle in short bursts without blowing

Max power ( or max output) for an amp is what it can produce if the gains and any other boost is turned up. Of course if you max power the output you will be either replacing speakers all the time and or replacing the amp or fuses or both..

That is my layman's understanding.

That is why all the talk on here about setting up the head unit to a volume level that does not allow distortion to reach the amp and the amp set up so the amp does not send distortion to the speakers.

SO having a 500 watt amp (say 750 watts max) that has 250 watts rms per channel and you have matched speakers that can handle 250 watts rms  so If all the above is set properly then when you turn your volume up the determined max level (just before distortion) and your amp is set the same way (gains set to just before distortion) you theoretically will never blow your speakers.

Just my two killer bytes.......

Which is much easier for a layman such as myself to understand. Thanx

[IronMike113]

I understand it......... 👍 the point I was looking to get made by the EXPERT's was some people think when they buy A 208 watt stereo they really think they have a kick ass 208 watt radio,I have tried to explain to them How that 208 really come's in to play and at what Volume,and let them know that the 18 RMS is about all they really have................ 

[ΚĜΗΟŜΤ]

Do you mean like a head unit that advertises 100 watts power for a 4 channels?

100 divided by 4 equals 25 watts per channel, that would be max power output and in reality they are lucky when they turn it up to a level of no distortion that they are actually only hearing/getting about 14 watts RMS........into a 4 ohm speaker of course which is most common in many systems and if you read the fine print it says 14 watts rms..........haha.

I have had to explain that to many also........

[Makdaddy]

RMS should only apply to the amp rating.
Speaker are passive.

[AAWAV]

my 2 cents...

amp RMS should be 2-2.5 times the Speaker Continious ("RMS" or NON PEAK) Power to allow for headroom...
so 200W amp (channel) to 100 Watt speaker. just don't blast music for a long time (I mean REALLY LOUD).
amps are rated using sinus wave, which is never like real music...