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Loose primary chain tensioner

Started by Walter Sobchak, January 13, 2015, 02:12:53 PM

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Walter Sobchak

Details;

Me,   retired engineer (so I overthink & am only an ok mechanic).

Bike,  99 FLSTC, 45,000mi, purchased 8/2014, 1,000 miles by me.

Issue,  while checking primary chain tension, I found the tensioner ass'y to be quite loose. the flat head screws were both backed out about 1-2 turns.

Question,  The threads seem ok so I will just reassemble, using a new nylon shoe.  What locktite should I use on the screws to attach the assembly to the inner case?

How should I treat the threads on the primary cover, anti-seize, blue, or light oil when I final assemble the primary?

Has anyone seen this before? I appreciate your comments.

calif phil

Red loctite on the tensioner bolts, anti seize on the primary bolts. 

FSG

Flat Head screws ?

Are you referring to item 1 arrowed?


bigfoot5x

The shop manual does not list anything on the bolts holding the primary case but it does have torque specs. I have always just used the torque specs after making sure the bolts were clean and oil free. Never had a problem. Good luck with the bolts holding the tensioner. The red Loctite sounds good. I had a friend with one of those bikes and once those bolts started coming loose, we could never get them to stay tight. He solved the problem by trading it in. Your bike wouldn't happen to be blue by chance?

Walter Sobchak

January 13, 2015, 06:22:32 PM #4 Last Edit: January 13, 2015, 06:25:05 PM by Walter Sobchak
Yes, it's bolt #1 mine has an upper and lower. Thanks for the replies, I'll clean it up & red locktite it.
Thanks also for the screen shot, hopefully the dealer has a 99 parts catalog on the shelf.

Edit, it's black, I'll fix it a $20,000 fix is too rich for me.

guido4198

I'll stay out of the lok-tite part of the conversation for the tensioner. Personally...I don't use red anywhere the service manual doesn't recommend it. You may have something else going there however that might make that a reasonable choice on that bike.
For the primary cover...to get a leak-free seal...be sure that BOTH the cover bolts and the holes they go in to are clean and oil-free.
ALSO...make sure the mating surfaces are totally clean to the metal...(no "residues") and free of oil as well. Over the years...it's been common for a lot of folks to use gasket compound, silicone, etc,etc..all kind of "Stuff" on those mating surfaces to try to get a good seal and prevent a leaky primary. None of which is necessary unless your outer is warped (very unusual btw)
I use a VERY SMALL dab of silver anti-seize on those cover bolts and torque them correctly in a proper sequence...sort of a cross-hatch pattern so the whole thing pulls down flat and even. To help this process you can make up some studs to go in the holes on the inner primary. In my case...I cut the heads off a few 1/4 x 20 hex head bolts than cut a slot in the end for a screwdriver. These studs will hold the gasket in place while you're slipping the outer primary cover on. Once the outer is in place you can begin replacing your home-made studs with the bolts.
Sorry to get so wordy and probably telling you things you already know, but I thought someone else might find it useful.


BUBBIE

January 14, 2015, 03:17:11 AM #6 Last Edit: January 14, 2015, 03:22:26 AM by BUBBIE
 guido4198

GOOD POST........ :up: NOT too wordy at all...

This is why we are here......   : TO Help. Sharing Your tricks is an Important function we NEED Here on the HTT forum...

We Never know What others Know when they post and (added) they can by-pass on the Words or Re-fresh by reading them.

MANY Others read these threads. Helping them ALSO.... you are correct on that thinking.

You covered the area I would have mentioned:

Clean and Dry then fit together using the proper torquing method is the key to No Leaks. I have Re-used MY gaskets many times...
(especially: primary and the cam covers on TCams)

signed....BUBBIE
***********************
Quite Often I am Right, so Forgive me when I'm WRONG !!!

bootit

I would replace the screws with new factory screws. They come with a lock tight  on them. Part # 1783C.

moose

let me add to your dilemma when you use the anti sieze on the primary cover bolts I would make sure you have some on the bottom of the bolt where it touches the primary cover. I have seen many stuck there that had to have the head drilled out because it siezed on the cover.  Once the head was drilled out and the cover was removed the rest of the threaded part came out by hand. So in other words its not just the threads for the never sieze.
Moose aka Glenn-

BUBBIE

I AM Also careful of the Final torque....... Using Anti Seize on the cleaned threads and threaded screws, USE the lower Number for the torque.... Gentle as the anti seize  makes things go Tighter than just the cleaned,dry install.... :doh:

signed....BUBBIE
***********************
Quite Often I am Right, so Forgive me when I'm WRONG !!!

Hossamania

Guido, good tip on the fabbed studs for the gasket and cover install. Hadn't thought of that.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

FSG