2015 FLHTK 4 speaker upgrade with Amp suggestions

[Bertk]

Hello all,

I have read through several threads and hundreds of post on the subject. Now I need suggestions before I make a purchase.
After the speaker and Amp choice are made we can go into details I know I will need like radio flash, grills, wiring and whatever else I have missed.
I have never installed anything audio other than speakers.

Bike is a 2015 Ultra Limited.
Want to upgrade stock fearing & tourpak speakers and add an Amp.
Don't care about FM, never use it. I use HD SiriusXM and Flash Drive for music.
I would like better quality sound, (hear the words)  and more volume and some bass.
Would also like to keep fade between front and back.

I know Biketronics is a very good option, but does not fit the budget.

Speaker options I have narrowed it down to but not but open to suggestions.
Infinity Kappa 611i  2 ohm  &  Alpine SPR-60 6-1/2"  4 ohm.
1. Infinity Kappa 611i front and rear with adapters for tourpak.
2. Infinity Kappa 611i front and Alpine SPR-60 rear, no adapters needed

Amp option, open to suggestions.
Alpine MRV-F300 4-Channel  Amp. I think this amp will work with a mix of 2 & 4 ohm speakers?

[UltraNutZ]

you won't need adapters for tourpak with kappas, at least I never have.
no adapters needed for front speakers however you have 2 mounting options.  Either take the pods apart once they're out and mount the speakers on the inside and this will allow you to retain stock grills.  If not then mount from outside and you'll need to replace the stock grills with the boom audio grills.

I would use like speakers to get the best sound possible and that IMO should be the Kappa 62.11i.  I don't care too much for Alpine speakers, just not a full sound overall but that's just me.

as for amp, I would nix the MRV-F300 as it lacks in performance IMO, 75x4 is not much power at all in the grand scheme of things.  Installed one a few months ago and it was pulled out the following week.  since FM is not important to you, then you have many options that will fit in the fairing on top of the head unit.
RZ-2000D
PN4.520D
NVX JAD800.4 (drawback is not speaker level inputs but that can be overcome with line level to RCA adapters such as PAC SNI-15)
list goes on.

[Bertk]

Thanks for the info Nutz.
I'm going with 4 Kappa 62.11i speakers.
Just want to double check because I have read several posts where the Kappa speakers will bottom out in the 2014-2015 rear Tour-pak pods, and the V-Twin Tour-pak 6.5″ speaker pod adapter are needed.

As for the Amp I'm can't deside weather to go with the RZ-2000D or the PN4.520D.

[Gannicus]

Can't go wrong with either amp. Both awesome amps!

[UltraNutZ]

have never had to use the pod adapters.  and in fact the Kappas come with adapter rings that can me trimmed to space the speaker out about 1/4" if necessary.

[Bertk]

Thanks guys. Didn't mean to doubt you Nutz but there is just so much bad info floating around on the Other Side just wanted to make sure.

I ordered 4 Kappa 6211i speakers yesterday.

And have decided on the PN4.520D amp. Without knowing much about amps I based it on it's smaller size and lower watts. Maybe it will run cooler.

The next step is what else will I need for the install. I was going to watch the install videos on the other forum but they are gone. 

What will I need for wiring?

I see that 8 Ga wiring us used for the power along with an inline fuse, and the ground wire.
Is the CS Amplifier Power Harness Kit worth the $50?

I just found this Amp wiring kit on the Sonic Electronix site and like it better.

Can I splice into the rear speaker wires or should I run new ones?

[UltraNutZ]

man if there's anyone around that needs to be questioned every once in a while it's certainly me!   


The only other things you need for the install are


6' of 10ga power wire for + (8ga wire is overkill.  10ga copper wire is good for 40+A in the short run you're doing)
6' of 10ga power wire for - (to the battery)
inline fuse holder and 25a fuse.  That amp will never (unless it shorts out) draw more than 10a.


you're going to need rear inputs for your amp to maintain fader control so yes you'll want to tap into the existing speaker wires.  I'll get you the wiring colors and pin #s shortly for the rear speaker wires.

[Bertk]

Cool, I'll go with 10ga.

If I need to use but connectors to connect the speakers wires what gauge should I get? I want go get the good shrinkable ones. I'm putting an order into Sonic Electronix so I can do it all at once.

[UltraNutZ]

red - 18-22ga

[Bertk]

red - 18-22ga

Good. If I need extra wire for the speakers should I use 16 gauge?

[UltraNutZ]

if you go 16ga and need butt connectors you'll need to use the blue butt connectors.  In this case where you have an electrical connector larger than the wire (going from stock 20ga wire to a 16ga connector) strip back enough wire to twist it, then fold it in half and insert into connector and crimp.  Gives more surface area for the connector to grab onto.

[Bertk]

if you go 16ga and need butt connectors you'll need to use the blue butt connectors.  In this case where you have an electrical connector larger than the wire (going from stock 20ga wire to a 16ga connector) strip back enough wire to twist it, then fold it in half and insert into connector and crimp.  Gives more surface area for the connector to grab onto.

Then I should just get some 18 or 20ga wire, correct?

And where's a good local place to get 10ga power wire?

[ΚĜΗΟŜΤ]

Due to this being a motorcycle I would suggest using these but connectors...the ends shrink over the wire and keep them mostly water and weather proof. I use these a lot on boats and autos's........

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Heat-Shrink-Connector-Piece/dp/B008HMHJDO

[ΚĜΗΟŜΤ]

if you go 16ga and need butt connectors you'll need to use the blue butt connectors.  In this case where you have an electrical connector larger than the wire (going from stock 20ga wire to a 16ga connector) strip back enough wire to twist it, then fold it in half and insert into connector and crimp.  Gives more surface area for the connector to grab onto.

Then I should just get some 18 or 20ga wire, correct?

And where's a good local place to get 10ga power wire?

If your distance of running the power wires is short then 10 Gage may work but if it is more than 4-6 feet you may need bigger wire........8 or 6 gage......

If money is not a big deal and you are purchasing power leads for your amp, 10, 8 or 6 gage. My suggestion would be to purchase a pre made battery cable a bit longer than you need. It will have multi conductor copper wire and the Plus should be red and ground be black already. This is typically very flexible and may be easier than two separate wires.

Typically in the marine environment that type of cable is normal for battery to motor connections. Also jumper cables are also a possible choice.

10 gage is kind of small for anything that may draw some amperage.....but overall length is what needs to be determined.

ADD ON: just read the earlier post about gage size for power to amp...So use your best judgment......

[Bertk]

Due to this being a motorcycle I would suggest using these but connectors...the ends shrink over the wire and keep them mostly water and weather proof. I use these a lot on boats and autos's........

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Heat-Shrink-Connector-Piece/dp/B008HMHJDO

Thanks Kghost, I like this kit.

[Coyote]

if you go 16ga and need butt connectors you'll need to use the blue butt connectors.  In this case where you have an electrical connector larger than the wire (going from stock 20ga wire to a 16ga connector) strip back enough wire to twist it, then fold it in half and insert into connector and crimp.  Gives more surface area for the connector to grab onto.

Then I should just get some 18 or 20ga wire, correct?

And where's a good local place to get 10ga power wire?

I get mine here.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INVF40E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INVF468/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And 10 gauge is plenty big enough for a 5 foot run to the battery. Hell, the main wire to the 40 amp maxi fuse is only 10 gauge.

[UltraNutZ]

[Coyote]

 

I calculated with 5 feet of 10 gauge you will only see about 150mV of drop at 30 amps.

[Bertk]

From what I can see a 6' 10-ga wire can handle up to 65 amps. 
What's the maximum the PN4.520D will require?

[Bertk]

I calculated with 5 feet of 10 gauge you will only see about 150mV of drop at 30 amps.

This is over my head.   

[Coyote]

I currently have a 30 amp fuse going to my PN4.520D and it hasn't blown. IIRC, the amp has a 40 amp fuse.

[Coyote]

I calculated with 5 feet of 10 gauge you will only see NOT MUCH  about 150mV of drop at 30 amps.

This is over my head.   

Better?   

[Bertk]

I currently have a 30 amp fuse going to my PN4.520D and it hasn't blown. IIRC, the amp has a 40 amp fuse.

Coyote, do you have any pics of amp wired up under the fairing?

[UltraNutZ]

my testing on the 4.520D amp showed a max recorded amp draw of 8A.  These class D amps don't draw much current at all and lots of people blow this whole power/ground thing out of proportion with gargantuan sized wires such as 4ga and I've even seen 2ga.  Ridiculous at best.  Bigger is not always best.

[dirtracin23]

my testing on the 4.520D amp showed a max recorded amp draw of 8A.  These class D amps don't draw much current at all and lots of people blow this whole power/ground thing out of proportion with gargantuan sized wires such as 4ga and I've even seen 2ga.  Ridiculous at best.  Bigger is not always best.

It sure as he!! ain't best when trying to cram it all in the wiring tray under the tank that's for sure.

[Coyote]

I currently have a 30 amp fuse going to my PN4.520D and it hasn't blown. IIRC, the amp has a 40 amp fuse.

Coyote, do you have any pics of amp wired up under the fairing?

Sorry the pic is not better.

[attach=0]

[UltraNutZ]

Bert.  look at the top of the audio section for how to set your gains on your amp.

[Bertk]

my testing on the 4.520D amp showed a max recorded amp draw of 8A.  These class D amps don't draw much current at all and lots of people blow this whole power/ground thing out of proportion with gargantuan sized wires such as 4ga and I've even seen 2ga.  Ridiculous at best.  Bigger is not always best.

Ok, good to know. 10-ga it is.

[ALUCARD19]

Instead of butt connectors you can just solder the wires together and then heat shrink them, that way they will not come apart
from the vibration.

[Bertk]

Instead of butt connectors you can just solder the wires together and then heat shrink them, that way they will not come apart from the vibration.

That will be my first option, but if I can't get to some of them butt connectors will be my second option.

[Bertk]

Sorry the pic is not better.[attach=0]

I did come across that pic and like the way you double shrink wrapped the wires going into the amp.

Where you able to solder the speaker connections?

[Bertk]

Bert.  look at the top of the audio section for how to set your gains on your amp.

If I saw that earlier I would have never started this project... 

Just kidding. I have a cheap DMM and seeing you did the math for the 520D I will give it a shot.

[Coyote]

Sorry the pic is not better.[attach=0]

I did come across that pic and like the way you double shrink wrapped the wires going into the amp.

Where you able to solder the speaker connections?

I chose this path. No cutting of the stock harness. Heat shrink over the whole connection.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDGA28/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDGA64/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are nice double crimp connectors. I have the correct ratcheting crimp tool that does two stepped crimps. This crimps the wire and also the insulation.

[Bertk]

I chose this path. No cutting of the stock harness. Heat shrink over the whole connection.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDGA28/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDGA64/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are nice double crimp connectors. I have the correct ratcheting crimp tool that does two stepped crimps. This crimps the wire and also the insulation.

So you wired the speakers directly to the amp without using the factory wiring, correct?
In this case did you loose the front/rear fade control on the HU?

How did you go from the HU to the amp without cutting wires?

[UltraNutZ]

the spade connectors in the links above from Coyote crimp to your input wires for amp.  the spade actually plugs into the stock speaker wire harness

[Coyote]

Also all my speakers are in front. I did not need the fader but if I had wanted it, I would have just crimped 4 more pin/wires to bring the rear channel to the amp (just removing the pins in the main harness). There is nothing wrong with cutting the stock wiring harness, it's just my preference to never do it if there is another way. The same company that makes the crimp spades above also makes the mating side that will plug on the speaker terminals.  So I did that as well.

[Bertk]

Ok, I have been over thinking this hole wiring thing. 

From what the instructions tell me, all I need is:
For Power
10ga Positive to battery & fuse holder with 25 amp fuse
10ga Negative to battery
16ga Remote wire connected to P&A terminal in headlight harness

For Speakers
Disconnect the speaker wires.
Run the speaker wires that comes out of the HU to the High Inputs on the amp using red male disconnect terminals that Coyote pointed out. Solder & shrink extra 16ga wire as needed for length.

Run 16ga wire from the amp speaker output screw downs to the speakers using the screw down terminals. I'll tin the wire ends for all the screw downs.

Using the OE wiring I should not loose fade or any other control functions.

Next week the speakers, amp are arriving.
The BA speaker grills are on order from Kutter HD.

[UltraNutZ]

you got it sir.  the remote wire can be just about anything.  very little voltage and even less amps running through it.  a single piece of that 16ga speaker wire is perfect.   

[Bertk]

Thanks UN, another question?
Do the male disconnect terminals work for the rear tour-pak speakers?

As far as I can tell the closest connection to the rear speakers is the Molex [162] connector. Is this where I tap into the rear speakers?

[UltraNutZ]

on the FLHTK if you look at the back of the head unit to the right, there is a separate connector there with the wires for the rear speakers.  You can tap in there.

[Bertk]

on the FLHTK if you look at the back of the head unit to the right, there is a separate connector there with the wires for the rear speakers.  You can tap in there.

That's good to know. I didn't see them in the service manual wiring schematics.

What it does show is the wire colors going to the rear speakers (LBE - LBE/BK - LBE/O - LBE/GY) so I should be looking for a connector with these color wires?

[Coyote]

Radio pin out for the 2015 radio.

[attach=0]

[PosseRider]

Can these speakers be used without an amp ? infinity kappa 6211i  and what reflash to the radio needs to be done?

[UltraNutZ]

speakers only, no flash needed.  simply replace the stockers and yes they'll work perfectly fine for the fairing.  if you have rear pods because of the design change of the pod/controls location you'll have to use a shallower speaker such as the kicker CS674 back there.

[PosseRider]

I do have the rear pods forgot to mention it is an Ultra low.  Thanks for the quick response  Just noticed on a web site, says the kickers are 4ohm,  i thought the 2015 Ultra is 2 ohm ?

[Bertk]

speakers only, no flash needed.  simply replace the stockers and yes they'll work perfectly fine for the fairing.  if you have rear pods because of the design change of the pod/controls location you'll have to use a shallower speaker such as the kicker CS674 back there.

From post #4.

have never had to use the pod adapters.  and in fact the Kappas come with adapter rings that can me trimmed to space the speaker out about 1/4" if necessary.

Am I missing something?

[Bertk]

Radio pin out for the 2015 radio.
[attach=0]

Yes, that's where I got the wire colors from. I'll look for the connectors under the fairing next week when I take it apart.

[UltraNutZ]

I do have the rear pods forgot to mention it is an Ultra low.  Thanks for the quick response  Just noticed on a web site, says the kickers are 4ohm,  i thought the 2015 Ultra is 2 ohm ?

it is a 2 ohm setup correct but you can use a 4 ohm without issue.  You can get the Kappas in back there without issue as well if you want to use the spacers that come with them.  I myself have not had to the use the spacers but some report they've had to.   

[Bertk]

Going to bring the bike to the dealer for a radio flash before installing the PN4.520D AMP and 4 62.11i speakers on the 2015 FLHTK.
Am I correct that the flash needed: 
Set "AMP 1" and "AMP 2" to "No" and select "8 Speakers...." option as suggested by RF?

[Gannicus]

Correct.

8 speakers on
Amp 1 off
Amp 2 off
Fader Active,

[CaptJaC]

I have a BT 2 channel amp, 7.1 speakers and Magic box driving the fronts but want to replace the stock rear speakers (no amp yet) and remove the magic box and get the flash. Does it matter if I flash it before I remove the magic box or after. I have a dealer appointment tomorrow but won't have time to remove the magic box/install the rears until Sat.

JaC

[UltraNutZ]

just go ahead and have them flash it while it's there, tell them to disregard the way it sounds, just flash it and ride it home that way.   then you can do whatever you need to do once back at home and not have to worry about going back to the dealer.

[Bertk]

I'm installing the Kappa 62.11i, along with the SS PN4.520D amp.
What should the tweeters be set at 0dB or +3dB?
Running he Stock 6.5 HU on a 2015 FLHTK.

[UltraNutZ]

You'll want to try them out before you button everything up but I've not found a reason to move it from 0db.

[CaptJaC]

Took my bike to the dealer for the 8 speaker amp1 N0 and amp2 NO flash.  I have BT 7.1 speaker and 2180 two channel amp  in the front and a pair of  Kicker 41KSC674 in the rear pods being driven by the stock HU (no amp yet) Thankfully I had the Rorckford directions printed out to reference as they had never done it before. But each flash attempt gave me a "rear speaker mismatch error" then the fader quit working.  Tried it several times and even called Biketronics .  They think that perhaps the new rears being 4 ohms are making the error and forcing the fader off.  After an hour the store was closing and I flashed it back to factory.  The fader then worked with no mismatch error.  I guess I will reinstall the factory rears and try again.

Any suggestion or comments would be welcome.

JaC

[UltraNutZ]

what speakers in the rear?

[UltraNutZ]

disregard, I see now, Kickers.

that's very interesting to say the least.  Why would the impedance of the rear speaker (as long as it's not lower than what the head unit is capable of) generate an error and then disable the fader..   

[Bertk]

Got the front speakers installed and set them to 0dB. Has to button it up for the trip to the dealer for the flash.

I looked for the rear speakers plug behide the radio and was unable to locate it. No 4 way plug with light blue wires. Could someone point out it's location from this pic?
[attach=0]

[z71_fourwheelin]

Its in this group of 3 plugs

[z71_fourwheelin]

A bike I recently did as well is not able to get the fader to work after multiple flashes from the local dealer. He is using the 40CS674 for his lower speakers

[UltraNutZ]

well chit man.. the 2 or 3 14s I've done I used Kappas in all around and would have never thought that a 4 ohm speaker would cause these kinds of issues with these new head units.    


Only reason I recommend them is perfect fitment, sound pretty good, and can use stock grills back there.

[CaptJaC]

Sorta glad to know I'm not the only one that had issues.  That misery company thing.

UN you are correct they are drop in replacements.  As for the stock grill it appeared that the tweeter housing was slightly rubbing on the stock grills, at least on mine.  The Boom Audio grills arrived last night and add the depth to eliminate the rubbing. 

Going back to the dealer today or tomorrow with the stock rear speakers installed to do the flash.  If it works, I will then re install the Kickers.

UPDATE:
With the factory rears and the BT 2180 /BT 7.1 speakers in the front the Rockford Flash did not get the speaker mismatch message as before but still lost fader control.

A couple of posts talk about ensure fader is active but nowhere did we so this option on any menu.  Rest it back to factory and fader came back. 
Im at a loss!!

JaC

[Harleyguy UltraLimited]

well chit man.. the 2 or 3 14s I've done I used Kappas in all around and would have never thought that a 4 ohm speaker would cause these kinds of issues with these new head units.    


Only reason I recommend them is perfect fitment, sound pretty good, and can use stock grills back there.

The Kappa's are 2 Ohm speakers as per the speaker specs

[UltraNutZ]

yeah I get that.. my point was I've never put 4 ohms in there (14s and 15s) but in reality I don't think the impedance is what's going on.

I think it has to do with the amp1 and amp2 off flash.  What I haven't ascertained yet is whether amp1 is considered front and amp2 is considered rear.   

[joe_lyons]

Amp 1 = amp under/above radio.  Amp 2 = rear

[CaptJaC]

So here is exactly what we did.  We had to select number of amps 2.  This allowed us to get the 8 speaker option to appear.  Once it appeared we selected it and went to another page to say amp 1 OFF and amp 2 OFF then flashed the HU.  After flash no fader.  Tried this with amp 1 ON amp 2 OFF, Amp 1 OFF amp 2 ON, Amp 1 & 2 ON.  All resulted in the same no fader after the flash.  The fader is there and even allows you to select front or rear and actually lights up as it is doing something but it does nothing i.e. not fade nor show that it is fading by moving the dots.


At no time did we ever see an option to turn the fader control off or on.


JaC

[joe_lyons]

Fader automatically comes on with front/rear speaker setup.

[UltraNutZ]

Joe thank you sir.. was hoping you'd chime in here..

So CaptJac, what happens if you simply disconnect the rear speakers?

[GregOn2Wheels]

I hope that this isn't straying off the topic, but how important is it to have the fader?  I never change the fader on my 2015 FLHTK with the stock system, but I guess there is a chance I'd want to if I upgraded the speakers and added an amp.  This latest development with the 8 speakers and amps 1 & 2 disabled has me a bit gun shy about making any changes.

[UltraNutZ]

according to what I know and what Joe (i think he knows a thing or two about HD) confirmed above, when you enable the 4+ speakers, the fader is enabled.

[Harleyguy UltraLimited]

So maybe present bikes that have the fader working because we all ready front and rear speakers . If the tech just turns off front and rear amp the fader will work . Or do they still need to set it also to 8 speakers .

[Coyote]

My Centurion only shows 5 selections. Two of them are for two channel, three of them are for 4 channel. 

[Bertk]

Went to the dealer yesterday and ask to have the radio flashed. The told me without an amp installed they can't make any changes. I said show me! They said no problem. I got to look at the screen and it showed no amps installed along with a lot of other information, and all other the tabs at the top of the screen were grayed out. After I asked to take a pic of the screen it was already disconnected. I can't complain because they didn't charge me anything. They said come back when the amp is installed, that would made a BCU see that a change was made and allow them to make changes to the radio. So that's where I'm at now with the flash.

[Bertk]

Installed the Kappa 6211i speakers on the outside of the fairing pods in the stock location. The Boom grills (PN 76000321 & 76000322) hit the tweeter pods. I modified the grills so they are not indented anymore. Now they work fine. Took it for a ride and they sound Awesome!!! 
[attach=1]

Tried to installed the 6211i in the rear pods and they bottomed out. I had to use double spacers included in both sets of speakers to make them work, temporarily. I ordered these spacers from amazon to try out. No way I'm paying v-twin $90 for spacers. 

[Bertk]

I took a 200+ mile ride yesterday with all 4 speakers installed, and no amp. What a huge difference!!! 
I could see how some folks would be satisfied with just speakers, but they do need more power.

Now to find the rear speaker wires under the fairing and install the amp.

Getting the radio flashed is going to be a PITA. Does anyone have a screen shot of radio screen on the Digital Tech?

[Bertk]

Its in this group of 3 plugs

There are only two plugs on top of the radio. Neither one has continuity with the rear speakers. I also checked the left and right main-to-fairing harnesses.

I looked at every wiring diagram in the 2015 touring service manual and non show a rear speaker plug between the fairing and the plug at rear of the seat.

On the 2015's it looks like to me the only way to connect to the rear speakers under the fairing is to tap into the wires coming out of the back of the radio.

[Lowglidin]

Ok, confused.  I have a 2014 limited. I would like to run 4 infinity kappas on the bike.  Which amp is best to go in the fairing, 4 channel preferred.  Would like to still have FM as well

[Harleyguy UltraLimited]

I'm in the same boat and my boat is leaning towards the Biketronics  4180 . Check out the biketronics group buy.

[PosseRider]

Bertk, you have a PM..    need help with install of Kappa speakers.

[Bertk]

Replied to your PM.

[Bertk]

To date, the 4 kappa 62.11i speakers and the SS PN4.52D amp are installed.
The first ride with just the 2 front kapps speakers installed. Big improvement.
The next ride was with all 4 kapps installed. Even better. If anyone whats to do just speakers this is a night and day difference over the stock speaker.
Today's ride was with the speakers and amp installed. This was another big improvement but have to hold off on comments because the radio has not been flashed yet. My dealer didn't know how to do the flash before the amp was installed. I did find some info in this thread I can bring to them in hopes they can perform the flash.

Once I'm finished with the install I will post the steps it took to install the speakers and amp. I did take a lot of pics along the way. 

[shagyluke]

So I have a 15 RGS that I have installed a NVX amp and four 62.11i's. Two in the fairing and two in the lowers. I have a flash from HD with four speakers enabled as thats all my VIN would support according to the tech that did my flash install. They use your VIN to get the flash from HD.. My flash is four speakers** amp 1 installed set to yes**amp 2 installed set to yes.. I now do not have treble or base control. I read on another post from road glide forum that another guy has my set up and has his flash set as amp 1&2 installed set to no, and he doesn't have treble or base control. This flash BS is starting to wear on my nurves. I am hoping someone will figure it out before I go crazy. I am going to HD tomorrow to see if I can get something figured out. I am going to try every flash that I can and see if any of them work.

[Bertk]

Using the on board audio diagnostic tool:
1.    Put run switch in the RUN position.
2.    Hold the MUTE button while turning the ignition on.
3.    Wait until the confirmation message comes up.
4.    Confirm and release the MUTE button.
5.    In the AUDIO section select EQ. That will list all applicable EQ and audio options.
6.    Scroll through to find the one that is currently loaded (orange background).
My bike shows  00_OFF.BIN  (stock)What does your bike show?
Ask you buddy what his bike shows?

[UltraNutZ]

So I have a 15 RGS that I have installed a NVX amp and four 62.11i's. Two in the fairing and two in the lowers. I have a flash from HD with four speakers enabled as thats all my VIN would support according to the tech that did my flash install. They use your VIN to get the flash from HD.. My flash is four speakers** amp 1 installed set to yes**amp 2 installed set to yes.. I now do not have treble or base control. I read on another post from road glide forum that another guy has my set up and has his flash set as amp 1&2 installed set to no, and he doesn't have treble or base control. This flash BS is starting to wear on my nurves. I am hoping someone will figure it out before I go crazy. I am going to HD tomorrow to see if I can get something figured out. I am going to try every flash that I can and see if any of them work.

much to my dismay, I was unable to obtain what I thought I would be at the Expo so it's back to square 1 for me in dealing with the dealerships and their lack of knowledge of their own products.  To have a radio flashed via a VIN # IMO is absolutely ridiculous and I definitely see HD once again working themselves right out of the audio world.

[shagyluke]

Using the on board audio diagnostic tool:
1.    Put run switch in the RUN position.
2.    Hold the MUTE button while turning the ignition on.
3.    Wait until the confirmation message comes up.
4.    Confirm and release the MUTE button.
5.    In the AUDIO section select EQ. That will list all applicable EQ and audio options.
6.    Scroll through to find the one that is currently loaded (orange background).
My bike shows  00_OFF.BIN  (stock)What does your bike show?
Ask you buddy what his bike shows?

I posted in the other thread also but then I saw this one..

I have a 15 RGS

Current flash is Amp 1&2 installed "Yes"
4speakers

I have a NVX amp and four 62.11I's installed in lowers and fairing.

My results from your inquirey are as follows:

00_off.bin
00_off_OE_flht_4.bin
00_on.bin

The three above show up when I perform the audio EQ options.

So please tell me what this is telling me???

Aaron

[CaptJaC]

To my understanding the one that is currently loaded will have an orange background.
Was that what you were asking?

JaC

[UltraNutZ]

I don't think these files are as important as some have made them out to be mainly because they mean nothing without the DT.  Besides if they were of any significance, IMO HD wouldn't leave them visible or accessible by the end users.  It wouldn't take much with the proper tools and know how, to gain access to the storage areas of the HD radios and I doubt HD is going to leave themselves open for that..

[shagyluke]

So I have a 15 RGS that I have installed a NVX amp and four 62.11i's. Two in the fairing and two in the lowers. I have a flash from HD with four speakers enabled as thats all my VIN would support according to the tech that did my flash install. They use your VIN to get the flash from HD.. My flash is four speakers** amp 1 installed set to yes**amp 2 installed set to yes.. I now do not have treble or base control. I read on another post from road glide forum that another guy has my set up and has his flash set as amp 1&2 installed set to no, and he doesn't have treble or base control. This flash BS is starting to wear on my nurves. I am hoping someone will figure it out before I go crazy. I am going to HD tomorrow to see if I can get something figured out. I am going to try every flash that I can and see if any of them work.

much to my dismay, I was unable to obtain what I thought I would be at the Expo so it's back to square 1 for me in dealing with the dealerships and their lack of knowledge of their own products.  To have a radio flashed via a VIN # IMO is absolutely ridiculous and I definitely see HD once again working themselves right out of the audio world.

UN,

I know a lot of us are leaning on you and your knowledge to help get this figured out. I wanted to thank you for your help so far. I have learned  far more than imagined from both you and AAWAV. I am sure someone will get this figured out at some point, or I will just change out my head unit and be done with it which I don't really want to do. Its frustrating to buy a new bike and find out you can only install "Potty mouth" (Boom) equipment on it for it to work right.

[UltraNutZ]

So I have a 15 RGS that I have installed a NVX amp and four 62.11i's. Two in the fairing and two in the lowers. I have a flash from HD with four speakers enabled as thats all my VIN would support according to the tech that did my flash install. They use your VIN to get the flash from HD.. My flash is four speakers** amp 1 installed set to yes**amp 2 installed set to yes.. I now do not have treble or base control. I read on another post from road glide forum that another guy has my set up and has his flash set as amp 1&2 installed set to no, and he doesn't have treble or base control. This flash BS is starting to wear on my nurves. I am hoping someone will figure it out before I go crazy. I am going to HD tomorrow to see if I can get something figured out. I am going to try every flash that I can and see if any of them work.

much to my dismay, I was unable to obtain what I thought I would be at the Expo so it's back to square 1 for me in dealing with the dealerships and their lack of knowledge of their own products.  To have a radio flashed via a VIN # IMO is absolutely ridiculous and I definitely see HD once again working themselves right out of the audio world.

UN,

I know a lot of us are leaning on you and your knowledge to help get this figured out. I wanted to thank you for your help so far. I have learned  far more than imagined from both you and AAWAV. I am sure someone will get this figured out at some point, or I will just change out my head unit and be done with it which I don't really want to do. Its frustrating to buy a new bike and find out you can only install "Potty mouth" (Boom) equipment on it for it to work right.

I speak for AAWAV as well when I say, my pleasure..

Yeah I see this continuing to be an issue mainly because there is no valid and documented information out there.  Only what "appears" to work best.  And then again that appears to be a moving target as well with HD updating these head units.  There was nothing tied to VINs back in early 14, that part of it is just now coming to light where features of a head unit are based on the VIN of the bike.  Stupidity at it's finest.  Someone is going to crack this thing wide open and when they do, they'll make a small fortune with it and hats off to them for doing so.

[Bertk]

I don't think these files are as important as some have made them out to be mainly because they mean nothing without the DT.  Besides if they were of any significance, IMO HD wouldn't leave them visible or accessible by the end users.  It wouldn't take much with the proper tools and know how, to gain access to the storage areas of the HD radios and I doubt HD is going to leave themselves open for that..

What I am trying to do is put 2 and 2 together to figure out what  .bin  file is loaded after a successful flash. If successfully flashed bikes show  02_off.bin  rather than the stock 00_off.bin then this is something we can bring to the clueless Dealer/Tech and point them in the right direction.
Or maybe not and I'm wasting my time.  Wouldn't be the first time... 

[shagyluke]

So I spent most my morning at HD. I wanted to see if I could get the treble and base control back. We switched it to amp 1 & 2 installed "No" and changed it from four speakers to 2 speakers. I had control back. I went for a test ride and with the base all the way down and treble set to flat I was distorting at like 4-5 clicks of the volume control. I went back and we changed it to 4 speakers and amps 1&2 installed "No" and the control of base and treble was lost but it sounded way better. All my .bin's are the same as before..

[Bertk]

So I spent most my morning at HD. I wanted to see if I could get the treble and base control back. We switched it to amp 1 & 2 installed "No" and changed it from four speakers to 2 speakers. I had control back. I went for a test ride and with the base all the way down and treble set to flat I was distorting at like 4-5 clicks of the volume control. I went back and we changed it to 4 speakers and amps 1&2 installed "No" and the control of base and treble was lost but it sounded way better. All my .bin's are the same as before..

There are a lot more than 3 .bin file names available. Use the arrows on the right and scroll down until you see a .bin file with an orange background.

[UltraNutZ]

Bertk, are those actually select-able by the end user or are they simply put there with the DT and the highlighted one is the active one?

[shagyluke]

So I spent most my morning at HD. I wanted to see if I could get the treble and base control back. We switched it to amp 1 & 2 installed "No" and changed it from four speakers to 2 speakers. I had control back. I went for a test ride and with the base all the way down and treble set to flat I was distorting at like 4-5 clicks of the volume control. I went back and we changed it to 4 speakers and amps 1&2 installed "No" and the control of base and treble was lost but it sounded way better. All my .bin's are the same as before..

There are a lot more than 3 .bin file names available. Use the arrows on the right and scroll down until you see a .bin file with an orange background.

You are correct. 02_OFF.bin is the one highlighted.. You cant change it by selecting another one or I would have sat there and tried them all.

[Bertk]

Bertk, are those actually select-able by the end user or are they simply put there with the DT and the highlighted one is the active one?

Yes they are selectable but not available. Here are the steps, with pics.

From what I can tell the active .bin file is highlighted in orange, in this case 00_OFF.bin
If you select another .bin file in the list such as 02_OFF.bin circled in orange
Then press the (i) button between the two scroll arrows you get "Current EQ Version: 00_OFF.bin. Load new EQ?"
Select Yes and under Devices Avail. Udisk appears.
At this point it's looking for a USB connection. Which I suspect is the USB Drive or the DT if hooked up.
If I press OK, you get "No EQ files found."

[Bertk]

I'm going to hold off with the flash for now.

My question is, is it OK to go ahead set the gains by DMM?

If so, PN4.520D & Kappa 62.11i

P=520/2=260
R=2
P+R=520
√ of 520=22.80
V=22.80 volts

My cheepo DMM only has two manual Vac settings, 200 & 600. Which one should I use?

[UltraNutZ]

you can use either setting.  just move the decimal place 2 over.  so if your reading on your DMM is .228 then move the decimal over 2 places to 22.8.  :-)

[PosseRider]

Has anyone mounted the Kappa speakers from "inside" the fairing & if so, what grills did you use ?

[UltraNutZ]

if you're referring to the inside the pods then no grill other than stock is necessary.  you could always replace the stockers with BA grills if desired.. not many manufacturers out there yet with aftermarket grills for 14/15 models..

[Bertk]

you can use either setting.  just move the decimal place 2 over.  so if your reading on your DMM is .228 then move the decimal over 2 places to 22.8.  :-)

Ok thanks NutZ. Will give it a try tomorrow.

[Bertk]

Ok got the gains set by DMM. Can't crank it up, people sleeping.

The speaker screws on the amp don't want to stay snug. Is it OK to put a tiny bit of lock tight on the top threads of the screws? The speaker wire ends are tined. 

[UltraNutZ]

any amp with screw in terminals, I solder/tin the ends of the wires to make them solid and I then blue loctite the terminals.  Only way I'm assured a good connection will stay a good connection.

[Bertk]

ok thanks.

[Bertk]

Thanks to a lot of help from the folks in this forum, the Amp & Speakers are installed, and amp gains are set with a DMM. Four Kappa 62.11i speakers & a Soundstream PN4.520D
I must say it sounds very good, and loud, to my the untrained ears. And that's with no flash performed to the HU. 

[Harleyguy UltraLimited]

What did you end up using for the rear speaker spacers ?

[Bertk]

Got the spacers from Amazon  for under $7 and used the Boom rear speaker grills PN: 76000324 $20 each from Kutter HD. The 4 small holes in the spacers had to be enlarged for the screws to slide through.
Using the Kappa 62.11i speakers, I did had to modify the grills.
First by reshaping the grill to clear the tweeter
[attach=0]
Second by removing the tabs inside the grill with a dremel tool so they would fit over the speaker frame and flat on the spacers.
[attach=1]
By removing the tabs, the screw hole ended up larger and had to use larger 8/32" x 1 3/4" screws.
I remove the the stock screw anchors and used the screw clips that came with the speakers. The screw clips hole had to be enlarged slightly for the SS screws I choose. Other screws will work as long as the head is large enough.
Here are what they look like finished. Well worth the extra work IMO.
[attachimg=3]

[attachimg=4]

[attachimg=5]

[UltraNutZ]

what did you use to manipulate that grill so perfectly?

[Bertk]

what did you use to manipulate that grill so perfectly?

PVC pipes. Started with 3" and worked my way down. Then used some old autobody skills. Sitting down I placed the grill on my leg and used a ball peen hammer to tap tap and smooth the rest.
[attach=0]

[attach=1]

[attachimg=3]

[UltraNutZ]

did a great job..   

[Bertk]

did a great job..   

Thanks UN.

[Harleyguy UltraLimited]

Great job for sure I think I found someone who can modify my grills when I finally pull the trigger . Great write also

[ALUCARD19]

I almost did the same thing I used the 2" PVC coupler and tapped it out with a ball peen hammer, my grills are the ones that came in the V-Twin audio VTTP 6.5" spacer kit.
Tool/die maker skills come in handy sometimes.