How to set-up vertical mill to mill heads ?

[Showdog75]

 I'm looking for idea's on setting up my Rockwell vertical mill for shaving harley heads . How do most set the head up on the mill ? Clamp directly to the table or something else ? What type of cutter is typically used a multi tool cutter or one of the fly cutters that kinda look like a boring bar ? I would like some solid advice not looking for any trade secrets just want to be able to shave my own heads . I'd love to see pics if possible .Tia

[wolf_59]

Showdog
When I did mine I just used a dial indicator to make sure the table was true and bolted them down to the table using the little step blocks don't get to rough with them, using a fly cutter just started shaving them at .010 per pass

[Don D]

If the machine is rigid and true no problem. It needs to swing a large tool at relatively high speed (if a single tool is used like a flycutter). The machine needs to be tight and trammed too. Clamped right to the table and power fed through the cut.

[Admiral Akbar]

I use a 2 1/2 x 3 inch block with areas routed out to clear the springs. It has 4 holes that match the rocker covers. I clamp in a large milling vise. Currently using fly cutter and go slow but want to make a 4/5 tool surface milling tool. Max.

[Showdog75]

 The machine is rigid enough but I don't have power feed , is that a deal breaker or can I proceed manually with caution ? What kinda rpm's is suggested ? I'll definately get a set of junkers to play with . Tia

[wfolarry]

Because aluminum is soft a power feed is really the best way. If you feed by hand you have to watch what you're doing very closely. You can't have interrupted cuts. This will leave a groove on the head. [not the kind you want ] Watch the chip coming off & always keep the bit loaded. It's possible to do it just harder. You can get a power feed for under $300 from Enco. It's one of those things that's always on sale.  Also a good coolant is needed. You don't want the chips sticking to the tool.

[Showdog75]

Thanks guys , this is the kinda stuff I'm looking for . Keep the good advice coming . Anybody care to recommend  a good rpm to run . Tia

[PanHeadRed]

Showdog, there are to many variables to recommend a rpm for your piticular cutter. Rake, nose radius, chip load, work piece material, cutting tool material and diameter, machine condition, etc..etc... dictate that. But the basics are this, if your tools are crap you go slower.

Don't sweat the manual feed, if you know what your doing it works perfect, I never use power feed when running them manual, it's by choice.

As for set-up, strap it straight to the table using the lip above the intake port and the fin above the exhaust, that's about as simple as it can get. Draw a file across the rocker box surfaces to ensure that surface is flat, befor placing on the table.

If you do not have success with the fly cutter don't hesitate to run an end mill around the surface, it won't look as pretty but in reality it will actually be flatter then a fly cutter. Lubricants (cutting fluid) can help.

And don't forget WEAR YOUR GLASSES!

[Showdog75]

 I love you guys , thanks for the info . If anybody has any more advice keep it coming . 
Thats me gobbling up all the good info .

[PanHeadRed]

>more advice keep it coming<

If the heads are assembled, parallels are your friend.

Little trick for ya, if you set the head up the way described, or disassembled with the guides in line and over the Table T-Slots you can place the valves in the head and do your cc measuring right on the mill with out tearing down your set-up. Cut a little and measure as you go. Make sure you slide the head far enough to one end so you have room for the burett stand. If I remember correctly it's about .0075" per cc.

Be sure to measure as you go don't take my word for it.

When finished, run some paper around the machined edge leading into the combustion chamber, sharp edgs are not usually a good thing.

If you mill to much, report back I have another trick for ya. If i tell ya now you'll have to spit your gum out. 

Did I mention the part about wearing safety glasses? 

[Sonny S.]

If you mill to much, report back I have another trick for ya.

Awe come on, tell us now. No secrets here...remember ?

Sonny

[Billy]

If you mill to much, report back I have another trick for ya.

Awe come on, tell us now. No secrets here...remember ?

Sonny

No secret Sonny, just run the machine backward to put the metal back on. 

[Don D]

A-9 is a good cutting fluid and only needs to be used sparingly.

[KingofCubes]

This is how I do it the hard way.

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

[Sonny S.]

Billy... LOL   

[Showdog75]

ttt

[Hillside Motorcycle]

Randy,
How many ft/sec feed rate do you run the indicator at??

[Hillside Motorcycle]

I made a fixture over 20 years ago, 1",O-1 Tool steel, that bolts to the rocker box surface(Evo or T/C)
That is held in a Kurt vise, on parallels, seated with a small shot hammer.
Swing the indicator to double check, and flycut your little heart away. Flatter than pi$$ on a platter.
I use a spray mist unit with Baum's Castorine coolant, to keep the tool lubricated and leaves a beautiful finish on the workpiece as well.

[Billy]

I clamp'em right to the mill table or if they still have the valves in I'll raise'em on parallels. By doing the later (and leaving a spk plug in) you are able to cc it in place on the mill table. I use a homemade single point flycutter which will cut the surface in one pass.

[Hillside Motorcycle]

My fixture allows for valves to be left in, and also doubles as a fixture for machining releases,(Evo's) when set at a 90 in the vise.
We have many tools like this, that I have manufactured over the years. Even a fixture to surface flathead heads. Cake.

[Admiral Akbar]

"Even a fixture to surface flathead heads. Cake."

Bet you dont use that one much anymore... 

Max

[KingofCubes]

My fixture allows for valves to be left in, and also doubles as a fixture for machining releases,(Evo's) when set at a 90 in the vise.
We have many tools like this, that I have manufactured over the years. Even a fixture to surface flathead heads. Cake.

Could you call that "Undercover Cake?"

[greycanuck]

 Clamp heads on table either direct or using parallels. Indicate head surface to see if it parallel and flat (may have to use some shim stock to adjust). yes its ok to use hand feed and i would use a flycutter at 0.010 increment cuts..you don,t want to get greedy. if you do not have coolant you can spray some pledge on your head ...yes the furniture polish...don,t know what is in it but it sure stops aluminium from sticking to the tool bit ( its an old machinists trick ). if when you are done your final cut and you think you may have left a tool mark on the head surface don,t  recut and don,t sweat it..get a couple of sheets of fine grade emery paper and tape the outside edges to a surface plate, if you don,t have a surface plate handy or anthing thats level, a thick piece of plate glass will work. rub some machinist blue on to the face of the head and using an orbital motion  rub head over emery paper holding head as flat as possible. the machinist blue will give you an indication as to how much you need to remove and also the flatness on the head. when you are done your surface will now be flatter than piss on a plate because you not only removed the tool marks but you also eliminated any possible distortion that could have happened  during the clamping operation ( which is unlikely ) .the surface plate trick will remove metal fairley fast and gives  good results.

[Hillside Motorcycle]

"Even a fixture to surface flathead heads. Cake."

Bet you dont use that one much anymore... 

Max

Damn little.

[HDSlowride]

In the absence of a good synthetic coolant, varsol, kerosene or WD-40 will all do a pretty fine job for aluminum. I like the finish that a large diameter shell mill leaves better than a flycutter finish. Seems to give a better seal also.