NVX MVPA4 Micro-V AND BT7.1 upgrade??

[Stang951]

I have an 09 Street Glide, with tour pak, HK head and I upgraded the speakers to the 2ohm JM Performance series (years ago). The sound was ok and I was using a headset exclusively for a while. in the last year though I have found that on some trips Id rather have the headset just for communication and leave the audio coming out of the speakers.

Well the headunit is no longer putting out the volume at speed (or I'm getting a little deafer) and I want a boost. I don't really want to deal with the space issues in the fairing and was looking at the NVX MVPA4 Micro-V. It looks like it will drive the JM speakers ok, but later on I would like to upgrade to the BT 7.1 (not the pro) to get better sound up front. Will that amp be ok or should I fight the space demons and get a different amp? I am a little concerned about the FM signal loss, but I'm not completely up to speed on that issue yet so...

I definitely want to keep it in the fairing as I take the TP off on occasion, no interest in lower pod, although I "might" do some speaker lids oneday

[UltraNutZ]

since you're planning on upgrading to the BT speakers later on, I would definitely choose another amp.  The PBR300x2 would fit the bill just keep the gains on the lower side to not destroy those J&M speakers.  Once you get the BT speakers in, then you'll be able to crank up the gains for those speakers.  It also fits perfectly fine in the fairing.

Another option if you want to spend the $ is the BT2180 which is about as good as it gets for a 2 channel amp on these bikes.

Neither of the 2 mentioned amps will affect FM reception

[Stang951]

With only two channels I am assuming that the rear speakers would not be amplified. I am used to car audio, and that would be weird to have just the fronts amplified. I was looking at the PBR300x4 from one of the threads unless I don't really need it.

Ultra do you still have the step by steps to install the amps? Curious how to fit that and the modules above the radio, and how the wiring was run.

[UltraNutZ]

you don't want the PBR300x4.  no where near enough power to effectively drive a decent speaker.  in addition it's only stable at 4 ohms.

you would be better off with the NVX 4 channel amp.

If you don't care about Fader control, then 2 channels will drive 4 speakers as long as both front and rear speakers are 4 ohms.  you would wire them in parallel @ a 2 ohm load to the amp.

[Stang951]

I think that the JM speakers that I have are 2 ohm, not 4. That kills the PBR300X4 anyways. I have the fader control flashed to the radio and used it twice, both times just to check speaker operation.

[DravenGSX]

The JL XD400/4v2 should fit the bill nicely.  It will be cleaner than the 300x2.

Not for nothing, but you'd probably be doing yourself a favor by blowing up the JM speakers and forcing yourself to part with them earlier rather than later.  

[Stang951]

LOL..they served their purpose. I got them under 200.00 for all 4 so I cant complain.

Now I have to figure out if I want to get an amp first and run the JMs or buy the 7.1 and run off the head unit until I can afford an amp. Tough decision, as I cant swing both right now.

[Stang951]

Reading through UN's older posts I am going to purchase a Soundstream PN4.520D. IF i lose Fm then I will put it in my truck and look at the RF in a few months. If it performs as well as UN wrote then I'll be happy and upgrade to the BT7.1's in the summer. Found one new on Ebay for 98.00 free shipping which fits the budget right now and has good reviews.

[UltraNutZ]

it's a good amp no doubt.. The RZD-2000D is also a good choice with a bit more power.  Expect to lose FM with it also.

[AAWAV]

NVX will NOT drive the BT71s enough. go with the PA RZ2000.4D or SS PN4.520.
stock HU will stay clean up to 13 bars (confirmed this weekend with o-scope and 1000Hz/0db test signal).
I was able to squeeze 145W at 2 ohm out of the RZ4 
bro happy, me happy. his polks were NOT melted down, so appears to be a set from before the inferior glue usage. changed them out for the infinity's anyway and complete old setup (PBR300x2 and Polks) is going up for sale overseas....

[gordonr]

NVX will NOT drive the BT71s enough. go with the PA RZ2000.4D or SS PN4.520.
stock HU will stay clean up to 13 bars (confirmed this weekend with o-scope and 1000Hz/0db test signal).
I was able to squeeze 145W at 2 ohm out of the RZ4 
bro happy, me happy. his polks were NOT melted down, so appears to be a set from before the inferior glue usage. changed them out for the infinity's anyway and complete old setup (PBR300x2 and Polks) is going up for sale overseas....

Think there would be any difference in outcome using 500hz?

[AAWAV]

it is commonly known to use 1kHz test sine for dialing in "full range" speakers.
50 Hz is (should) only be used for subwoofers...

500Hz might be sitting at the lower (too low?) end...
plenty of free downloadable test signals out there on the web (mp3 or - better - wav)

[gordonr]

it is commonly known to use 1kHz test sine for dialing in "full range" speakers.
50 Hz is (should) only be used for subwoofers...

500Hz might be sitting at the lower (too low?) end...
plenty of free downloadable test signals out there on the web (mp3 or - better - wav)

Just trying to get a grasp on these testing freq. I've been using an app and bluetoothing  the signals into the head unit. I did pick up some general info reguarding input freq for the hu and the amp, but with no reasoning. Still educating myself with my new equip. Thanks