Any testing done with New Pioneer GM-D1004 amp

Started by gordonr, February 25, 2015, 10:01:43 AM

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gordonr

Our pioneer rep came by recently and showed us this small amp (GM-D1004) with a map of $150.  90*2w at 4ohms, dimensions roughly 7"*1.5"*2.5". Curious if anyone has played with one?
"If was easy everyone would do it"

ALUCARD19

I looked it up on crutchfield and it's only rated at 45watts @2 ohms.
It would seem to be a bit underpowered for most of our applications.
"A Hole is a Hole is a Hole",  Where Eagles Dare
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AAWAV

yep - 45W at 2 or 4 ohm is NOT going to cut it... better (and cheaper) options available...
also, "never" bridge an amp, unless for woofer... according to Nutz and others (I take no credits here LOL).
'99 Fatboy & '13 SG (DECKED OUT) - Audio Fanatic

gordonr

I read the specs quickly and saw 90*2 at 4ohms but didn't see "bridged" written inside. Here's the box info


"If was easy everyone would do it"

AAWAV

trust me - not worth it.
it says 45W x 4 and 90W x 2
that means bridged 90W x 2 at 4 ohm or higher (higher means less Watts).
'99 Fatboy & '13 SG (DECKED OUT) - Audio Fanatic

gordonr

My manager ordered 4 for car installs. I'm going to grab one and try it in the bridged mode on my display and see how it works out. I will get back with the outcome.
"If was easy everyone would do it"

Gannicus

Quote from: ALUCARD19 on February 25, 2015, 10:09:08 AM
I looked it up on crutchfield and it's only rated at 45watts @2 ohms.
It would seem to be a bit underpowered for most of our applications.


Yeah - Underpowered big time unless a guy just wanted to "enhance" his stock BOOM system.

UltraNutZ

February 26, 2015, 12:34:11 PM #7 Last Edit: February 26, 2015, 12:36:28 PM by UltraNutZ
gordonr, the reason I shy away from bridging amps is inevitably sound quality goes down, current draw goes up, therefore heat goes up.  Sound quality is highly unlikely to be of any importance to anyone when dealing with subs, they're looking for SPL
Politicians are like diapers.
They need to be changed for the same reasons

gordonr

Quote from: UltraNutZ on February 26, 2015, 12:34:11 PM
gordonr, the reason I shy away from bridging amps is inevitably sound quality goes down, current draw goes up, therefore heat goes up.  Sound quality is highly unlikely to be of any importance to anyone when dealing with subs, they're looking for SPL


I get the jist of what you all are saying. I'm in a good position to do some hard testing and curiosity usually gets the best of me. Thank you for the advice. I will put my o-scope/amp clamp in the mix too.
"If was easy everyone would do it"

UltraNutZ

when clamping, are you determining before hand where clipping point is?
Politicians are like diapers.
They need to be changed for the same reasons

gordonr

Quote from: UltraNutZ on February 27, 2015, 07:42:28 AM
when clamping, are you determining before hand where clipping point is?



I haven't done yet. Stock order on the way. Are you able to determine supply wire gauge discrepancy's by seeing issues with the clamp?
"If was easy everyone would do it"

UltraNutZ

that should be easily seen with a DMM testing at each end of the wire.

obviously DC for power wiring and AC for speaker wires.

Politicians are like diapers.
They need to be changed for the same reasons

gordonr

Quote from: UltraNutZ on February 27, 2015, 08:15:07 AM
that should be easily seen with a DMM testing at each end of the wire.

obviously DC for power wiring and AC for speaker wires.


Im a voltage drop king with diags. I meant the quality of wire. We have been getting some crap car audio wiring here just assumed you may have seen something funky with a scope.
"If was easy everyone would do it"

UltraNutZ

February 27, 2015, 08:28:51 AM #13 Last Edit: February 27, 2015, 08:35:21 AM by UltraNutZ
well I haven't really tested anything specifically nor has anything stuck out to me in my normal tests.

I did have a Arc Audio 125.2 a few days ago that would not produce a sine wave to save it's life above about 5% gain.  Only a distorted square wave.  Tossed it.. not worth my time.. :-)


as for wire, pretty much the only thing I use on these bikes is 16ga and I always get it from the same place when needed, Parts Express, red/black zip-cord wire 1000' spools.  Has proven to work well for me.
Politicians are like diapers.
They need to be changed for the same reasons

ALUCARD19

Nutz is the wire you use CCA or 100% OFC wire?
I find that the CCA wire gets warmer and doesn't seem to get the same sound (to my ears) that the same gauge of 100% OFC wire does, what is your experience.
"A Hole is a Hole is a Hole",  Where Eagles Dare
         AMA Life Member #35524

UltraNutZ

I usually don't go out of my way to find OFC wire.  If it's there I'll use it.

As for CCA, don't use it at all.  I typically use bare copper conductor wiring (heavier the strands the happier I am) for everything including power up to 4ga, then I'll move to OFC.  My problem with OFC is the lying and cheating that a lot of suppliers resort to in trying to sell it.

order 4ga only to receive it and the wire including the insulation is 4ga, not the internals itself.
Politicians are like diapers.
They need to be changed for the same reasons

ALUCARD19

This is the wire I used for my power and ground 8-Gauge EnvyFlex Power/Ground Wire Cable by NVX and there XIX205 RCA inter connects from my amp to my HU and then I ran all new speaker wire StreetWires UCT1425BL 14ga. just to get the best wire with the least signal loss, and it does not cost that much more than the cheap wiring.
"A Hole is a Hole is a Hole",  Where Eagles Dare
         AMA Life Member #35524

daveblank

I like the Knu Konceptz wire. They offer both OFC & CCA wire. No need to worry about it being true to size like some brands, it actually runs a hair bigger in my experience.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/
2008 FXDF Dyna Fat Bob