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wheel bearing install question

Started by ΚĜΗΟŜΤ, March 25, 2015, 07:51:58 AM

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ΚĜΗΟŜΤ

Installing new bearing into my new to me solid aluminum wheel.
I have remove the old and am in the process of installing the new.

Does the bearing have to be pressed in deep enough (all the way) to keep the spacer from moving back and forth?

The service manual does not point this out. I am using my own "special" tools for this so I don't have the Harley special tool.

The way the manual looks is you just press it flush with the rim hub.

If I do this there may be some space between the bearing and the spacer tube so it will move back and forth.

Thanks
Member since 2004

Admiral Akbar

You press the brake side till its seated then press the other side till there is no to very little play in the center spacer and the bearings still turn reasonably free..

ΚĜΗΟŜΤ

Well I took the logical choice and pressed them in all the way until they bottomed out and this removes any end play in the spacer tube inside the hub. I did not over tighten my threaded press only until it stopped.

I will assume this is the correct depth to install.
Member since 2004

Admiral Akbar

Quote from: ΚĜΗΟŜΤ on March 25, 2015, 08:17:55 AM
Well I took the logical choice and pressed them in all the way until they bottomed out and this removes any end play in the spacer tube inside the hub.

I will assume this is the correct depth to install.

Most wheels (non HD) I'd say yes.. Some HD wheels have screwed up settings..

FSG

Quote from: ΚĜΗΟŜΤ on March 25, 2015, 08:17:55 AM
Well I took the logical choice and pressed them in all the way until they bottomed out and this removes any end play in the spacer tube inside the hub. I did not over tighten my threaded press only until it stopped.

I will assume this is the correct depth to install.

Which side did you press in first?

rbabos

Normally on single disc rotor, the rotor side gets pressed to the bottom. This establishes rotor alignment to the caliper via the spacer on that side. Opposite bearing gets pressed in unto it contacts the spacer inside the wheel only. On dual rotor setups there is also a first bearing but damned if I remember which one. FSG will know for sure. If you already have the wheel back on the bike and the pads are pretty much centered in the calipers it should be ok.
Ron

ΚĜΗΟŜΤ

Well it appears that the inner tube spacer is only as long as the bottom of each bearing hole. So each bearing seats all the way in to its bearing hole. Somewhat precision which is good....even someone who does not think first will assemble it correctly....I wonder who that might be.......... :crook:

I measured the depth of the installed bearings and the rotor side is ~ .030" different than the pulley side and there is nothing I can do about it. It appears to be what it is......Both bearings are seated in each hole all the way.
I guess this solid spun aluminum wheel was machined this way.

I could be wrong and when I mount it that will tell the tail but I don't see any way of making any changes.
Member since 2004

rbabos

Quote from: ΚĜΗΟŜΤ on March 25, 2015, 01:15:35 PM
Well it appears that the inner tube spacer is only as long as the bottom of each bearing hole. So each bearing seats all the way in to its bearing hole. Somewhat precision which is good....even someone who does not think first will assemble it correctly....I wonder who that might be.......... :crook:

I measured the depth of the installed bearings and the rotor side is ~ .030" different than the pulley side and there is nothing I can do about it. It appears to be what it is......Both bearings are seated in each hole all the way.
I guess this solid spun aluminum wheel was machined this way.

I could be wrong and when I mount it that will tell the tail but I don't see any way of making any changes.
The second bearing should not seat fully in the hole. The inner spacer should be long enough to hold the bearing away a few thou from the bottom. If not, when you torque the axle the inner races get forced together loading up the balls. This will cause bearings to have a short life. Real short.
Ron

fbn ent

 :agree: Hope you pressed evenly on the inner and outer race. You will stress the bearing if not.
'02 FLTRI - 103" / '84 FLH - 88"<br />Hinton, Alberta

ΚĜΗΟŜΤ

I may not know exactly how the bearings should be pressed in, in this situation I used a flat disk bigger in diameter than the bearing. Then when I needed to press them in more and I used one that fit the inside diameter of the wheel hub almost exactly and covered the entire bearing.
The manual has NO written reference to which side gets pressed in first only to press one and then the other till it stops moving. No written words as to which side first although the picture shows the rotor for first press. As I don't use the manual often and have not had specific Harley training one would assume if they wanted the rotor side first for a reason they would say so........

This is a 2004 softail HD service manual. 

I have many mercury marine service manuals and when they want a specific order of things to be assembled they SAY so.
Member since 2004

ΚĜΗΟŜΤ

"""""""The second bearing should not seat fully in the hole. The inner spacer should be long enough to hold the bearing away a few thou from the bottom. If not, when you torque the axle the inner races get forced together loading up the balls. This will cause bearings to have a short life. Real short.
Ron"""""""""""

I am sure the bearings inner races are in contact with the tube. the tube spins with the bearing as it is assembled now.

Member since 2004

fbn ent

You are right, the '07 Manual I have isn't real clear with the procedure but it does say at the top of the installation page in italics that the brake side goes in first. Sounds like you used the right tooling.
'02 FLTRI - 103" / '84 FLH - 88"<br />Hinton, Alberta

Wicked

Front wheel - rotor side is the reference side. Brg goes to the bottom.
Dual disc front wheel - left side is still the reference side.
Rear wheel - rotor side is the reference side.
Install brg in reference side first, all the way. Then install spacer, then brg from other side till bearings and spacer just contact each other with no strain.
You sure your "new to you" wheel has the same hub dimensions to allow you to use your spacer?
A new wheel and hardware kit from HD will give you normally at least 4 different length spacers for use on different models...

Paul

rbabos

Quote from: ΚĜΗΟŜΤ on March 25, 2015, 03:51:59 PM
"""""""The second bearing should not seat fully in the hole. The inner spacer should be long enough to hold the bearing away a few thou from the bottom. If not, when you torque the axle the inner races get forced together loading up the balls. This will cause bearings to have a short life. Real short.
Ron"""""""""""

I am sure the bearings inner races are in contact with the tube. the tube spins with the bearing as it is assembled now.
Probably fine then. The spacer length related to the bore depths in the wheel is not usually a visual thing and needs to be measured to see the difference. It could have been there and all along and the task went as it should. :up:
Ron

FSG

A 2004 Wheel was made here in South Australia and their machining procedures/techniques were second to none.

As Ron says  "The spacer length related to the bore depths in the wheel is not usually a visual thing and needs to be measured to see the difference"  and more so with a wheel from Oz.

The below is from a 2004 Softail SM I have.


ΚĜΗΟŜΤ

This wheel is a 2004 factory night train wheel. Solid aluminum.
My bike is a 2004 softail standard.......original wheel was laced (spokes) and the hub spoke holes became all elongated. So i purchased a very good used solid wheel.
I am 100% sure the rotor side is seated.
Member since 2004

ΚĜΗΟŜΤ

FSG....DAM....YOU are correct.....i simply missed that note.....

Me bad........was busy today...had to attend a wake and funeral so took the day off and was trying to getbthe bearings swapped before all the dead fun....


Again....me bad...
Member since 2004

FSG

I am 100% sure the rotor side is seated.

:up:


That was the reason for my earlier question, Which side did you press in first?

rbabos

Quote from: ΚĜΗΟŜΤ on March 25, 2015, 04:07:16 PM
This wheel is a 2004 factory night train wheel. Solid aluminum.
My bike is a 2004 softail standard.......original wheel was laced (spokes) and the hub spoke holes became all elongated. So i purchased a very good used solid wheel.
I am 100% sure the rotor side is seated.
If the pads are more or less centered when the caliper is bolted up, you are good to go. If not and the wheel drags really bad when you rotate it from one side pad pressure, well you know the drill. I suspect you are fine.
Ron

FSG

just to add ....

All 2004 Softails use the same rear left axle spacer, the sleeve in hub bearing spacer and the rear right axle spacer. Part numbers end in -00 or -00A, so 2003 back to 2000 models are the same.

ΚĜΗΟŜΤ

Thanks. FSG

I was very lucky to find this wheel especially in such good condition.
I am also lucky it is the exact same year as my bike.
Makes and keeps things consistant and simple...

Note to self..... Read all the page   not just the highlights....

Although it would have been nice if the note was outlined in red or bold.
The print service manual i have it not bolded or red boxed as your post shows.
I would have taken better notice....
Member since 2004

ΚĜΗΟŜΤ

UPDATE:

Got the new tire mounted, new floating rotor and pulley on and the entire set up balanced true, No weights needed.


Very pleased with the finished set up. not chrome shiny but works for me!


Member since 2004

fbn ent

'02 FLTRI - 103" / '84 FLH - 88"<br />Hinton, Alberta

FSG