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Which year is the best to buy a Dyna Wide Glide

Started by JAFHR, May 26, 2015, 06:52:07 PM

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Admiral Akbar

Quote from: mp on May 28, 2015, 09:56:17 PM
2006 and up are much stronger than previous Dyna frames, which used to crack the primary case because they flexed so much.  Newer frames also have much larger forks, 49mm vs 39mm.  The newer frame is much better looking to me as well.

Frame has nothing to do with primary cracking.. Cracking was an Evo problem with high HP motors..   WGs had 41mm tubes...

JAFHR

I'm pretty sure I'll either be changing out the crank or weld it. That or replace the motor with a 120 or ? I understand the 120R is no longer available. Is the 120 any good as a drop in, or just build the bike to a 103?
2011 Road Glide CVO 110 with Woods 777 cams, Power commander 4, Rhinehart 4"

Ultrashovel

May 29, 2015, 10:47:06 AM #27 Last Edit: May 29, 2015, 10:52:15 AM by Ultrashovel
2006 and later has hydraulic cam chain tensioners, IIRC. Also new plain bearings in cam plate, (25355-06A) IIRC. 2007 and later has 6 speed. Dyna Street Bob, Fat Bob Deluxe and Low Riders have 29 degree frame. (Faster handling than FXWG which has a 34 degree frame). Later is better since after 2007 has 96" engine....

Actually, I love them all but I adore the 6 speed transmission so there's no way I would get earlier than 2007. If you buy a 2010, 11 or 12 FXDB  (if I remember the actual years) you get an absolutely bitchin' Sparto style tail light. (69598-09A) How could you resist this? Oh yeah, some of the later FXDB's FXDWG's had an irresistible white-faced speedo......(67478-09)


All that said, you really can't got too far wrong on any of the Dynas. They are a great machine!







cherryseeg2

 1995 Wide Glide. The first Harley I ever rode. Was my dad's should have bought it instead of letting him trade it in.
[smg id=1966]
2005 Cherry SEEG2-J&B Performance 120 163hp/144tq

tommy g

09 FLSTC
85 FXEF

Carl 1969

Lieber stehend sterben, als kniend leben
Sergeant First Class, US Army, Retired

dynaglide

'01 Wide Glide - doesn't have to have mini-apes to look good (in my humble opinion...)

tomcat64

Quote from: JAFHR on May 29, 2015, 07:23:08 AM
I'm pretty sure I'll either be changing out the crank or weld it. That or replace the motor with a 120 or ? I understand the 120R is no longer available. Is the 120 any good as a drop in, or just build the bike to a 103?

what makes you think the 120R is no longer available,, altho there is a street legal 120ST now available.. same motor,, different cam chest,,

mp

Frame has nothing to do with primary cracking.. Cracking was an Evo problem with high HP motors..   WGs had 41mm tubes...
[/quote]

It was the frame....  Can't remember if they all did it, or if it started when they replaced the frame tubes under the seat with sheet metal to lower the seat height a little.  Torque arms were used by some to brace and strengthen the frame.  Harley eventually strengthened the interface of the engine and transmission which effectively used the stiffer powertrain to keep the frame from twisting.  As far as I know that pretty much solved the problem.

Admiral Akbar

Quote from: mp on May 30, 2015, 10:14:47 AM
Frame has nothing to do with primary cracking.. Cracking was an Evo problem with high HP motors..   WGs had 41mm tubes...

It was the frame....  Can't remember if they all did it, or if it started when they replaced the frame tubes under the seat with sheet metal to lower the seat height a little.  Torque arms were used by some to brace and strengthen the frame.  Harley eventually strengthened the interface of the engine and transmission which effectively used the stiffer powertrain to keep the frame from twisting.  As far as I know that pretty much solved the problem.
[/quote]

Must have been early WG.. It wasn't twin cams.. Do you know which year?

N-gin

I'm not here cause of a path before me, Im here cause of the burnout left behind