1974 XLCH with 6800miles

[Racepres]

Yep.

'71 - early '74 style:

[attach=0,msg1330755]

-JW

and those additional short studs are for?
My 1971 Sporty had the stand-offs and those excess studs...
I thought those "studs" were left over from the older Clutch...

[Burnout]

The extra studs are to mount the tabs lock the nuts used on a Pre-sleeved clutch pack.

You should be using the later steels and sleeves over the main studs.

[Racepres]

The extra studs are to mount the tabs lock the nuts used on a Pre-sleeved clutch pack.

You should be using the later steels and sleeves over the main studs.

"Potty mouth"!!! I remember that lock plate!!!!! was sitting here thinking of the old "covered" clutch, and forgot about locking the nuts when used without the Stand-offs.... Thanks for the "jog"

[sharkoilfield]

A true wealth of information available here...

What kind of wrench will fit into the space around the clutch cable locknut? My flare nut or open end wrench's won't [attach=0]  and by the looks of those rounded edges, neither did anything the former owner had...

[Hossamania]

I was going to mention that it looks like it's been a problem for others! Maybe a needle nose vise grips? That, and put a wrench on the other nut and turn it as a unit?

[Racepres]

A true wealth of information available here...

What kind of wrench will fit into the space around the clutch cable locknut? My flare nut or open end wrench's won't [attach=0,msg1331180]  and by the looks of those rounded edges, neither did anything the former owner had...

Afraid you will need to modify an open end wrench for that one... But start by replacing that rounded nut...
Bigger PITA than it should be tho... Maybe do Not piss with it till ya need a cable....

[Burnout]

The extra studs are to mount the tabs lock the nuts used on a Pre-sleeved clutch pack.

You should be using the later steels and sleeves over the main studs.

"Potty mouth"!!! I remember that lock plate!!!!! was sitting here thinking of the old "covered" clutch, and forgot about locking the nuts when used without the Stand-offs.... Thanks for the "jog"

I always use new lock nuts on the pressure plate as well.
Careful to not over-tighten, the sleeves crush easily.

[Racepres]

The extra studs are to mount the tabs lock the nuts used on a Pre-sleeved clutch pack.

You should be using the later steels and sleeves over the main studs.

"Potty mouth"!!! I remember that lock plate!!!!! was sitting here thinking of the old "covered" clutch, and forgot about locking the nuts when used without the Stand-offs.... Thanks for the "jog"

I always use new lock nuts on the pressure plate as well.
Careful to not over-tighten, the sleeves crush easily.

Wow!!!! Never ...ever crushed one of those stand-offs...
I think about 6 to 6.5 FtLbs is Recommended for 1/4 inch Nut!!!!!! And is plenty with new Nylock's...

[JW113]

Yes, some brilliant engineering with that clutch cable, eh?

There are a couple ways to deal with this. One, use a Barnett clutch cable, in which the body of the adjuster bolt is longer, meaning more threads showing. Then you can use a 5/16 threaded standoff nut, cut down a bit, which will put the hex portion beyond that "well" the stock nut sits in. Then you can get a wrench on it.

The other way (not advocating this, but I do it anyway) is to use a small flat chisel instead of a wrench, and "tap tighten" the nut. As mentioned above, you don't really need to tighten the piss out of this nut, just a smidgen beyond snug.

And one last thing: Use a seal washer on this under the nut. Meaning, one of those flat washers that has an O-ring, i.e. banjo fitting seal washer.

-JW

[Racepres]

Yes, some brilliant engineering with that clutch cable, eh?

There are a couple ways to deal with this. One, use a Barnett clutch cable, in which the body of the adjuster bolt is longer, meaning more threads showing. Then you can use a 5/16 threaded standoff nut, cut down a bit, which will put the hex portion beyond that "well" the stock nut sits in. Then you can get a wrench on it.

The other way (not advocating this, but I do it anyway) is to use a small flat chisel instead of a wrench, and "tap tighten" the nut. As mentioned above, you don't really need to tighten the piss out of this nut, just a smidgen beyond snug.

And one last thing: Use a seal washer on this under the nut. Meaning, one of those flat washers that has an O-ring, i.e. banjo fitting seal washer.

-JW

Yes yes... that is simply a 5/16 nut... they make them Double Tall, and maybe taller...
sometimes called a coupler nut....
https://www.zoro.com/te-co-coupling-nut-516-18-gr-5-st-black-oxide-41502/i/G1598256/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1te0o4Ob5wIVjpOzCh3WXAgsEAQYBSABEgJJa_D_BwE

[JW113]

Yep, that would be the one. I get mine at Home Depot or Ace...

-JW

[sharkoilfield]

 I'll be replacing both clutch and throttle cables with Barnet when the time comes. For now I'm going to modify a wrench and will use a coupler and sealing washer before I button up the primary.  I'd just like it to function well enough for a little local riding this spring...only way to tell if the whole bike works (ie: transmission).  I'm sure I'll have more questions soon...

[sharkoilfield]

 [attach=0]

This item arrived the other day; I've got next weekend off and I plan to spend it in the garage. Remove old oil cooler and replace oil lines as required, install this Ram Flo 400 air cleaner (see a lot more of that beautiful old motor) change all oils and start her up again...

[Racepres]

[attach=0,msg1334587]

This item arrived the other day; I've got next weekend off and I plan to spend it in the garage. Remove old oil cooler and replace oil lines as required, install this Ram Flo 400 air cleaner (see a lot more of that beautiful old motor) change all oils and start her up again...

Nice for keeping Birds and large Rocks and Insects out....
You would be Money, and Horsepower in the bank with the simple change to a K&N Air filter!!!
Could even set a National Record or Two!!!!!
http://www.amraonline.com/BikePics/77rt.jpg

[JW113]

Long time fan of the S&S Super B air cleaner. Sexy teardrop shape, small, can see most of the motor, easy to replace paper element.

[attach=0]

-JW

[sharkoilfield]

 [attach=0]
I have the polished, cast "S&S CYCLE" on my #1 bike
The mini would look great on my #2 (XLCH) BUT is just too expensive for me

[JW113]

That, my friend, is why you keep an eye out for one on ebay. I picked up three of them, all pretty cheap and in pretty rough shape. Which, in my humble opinion, is the wonderful thing about aluminum. It cleans up real nice.

-JW

[Racepres]

Long time fan of the S&S Super B air cleaner. Sexy teardrop shape, small, can see most of the motor, easy to replace paper element.

[attach=0,msg1334611]

-JW

Ya had me right up till the Paper Element.. No Thanks...  The K&N filter for the S&S air cleaner is the Only way I go [E-3225]... even my Tractors have K&N Filters!!!!

[JW113]

Everybody believes what they want to believe. If you're having having good results with K&N air filters, more power to ya. Personally, I hate cleaning them. But I'm also am a bit swayed by the research done comparing paper to K&N filter elements.

Have a look at section 3 and 4.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/305109858_Effect_of_OEM_Style_and_Aftermarket_Performance_Air_Filters_on_Vehicle_Parameters

-JW

[Racepres]

Everybody believes what they want to believe. If you're having having good results with K&N air filters, more power to ya. Personally, I hate cleaning them. But I'm also am a bit swayed by the research done comparing paper to K&N filter elements.

Have a look at section 3 and 4.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/305109858_Effect_of_OEM_Style_and_Aftermarket_Performance_Air_Filters_on_Vehicle_Parameters

-JW

You said it we all believe what we want, Some in Fact, based on Experience... I have Never yet Cleaned a K&N Filter... So I can't speak to that!!
I can Prove that a K&N outflows a New Sponge... very simply... I wouldn't dream of paper... again based on My Experiences!!!

BTW I care less about Automotive and especially New Diesel, studies!!!!

[JW113]

 

-JW

[sharkoilfield]

I've used K&N and paper; nice to be able to "service" (KN) the air filter when you live waaay out in the sticks. Does you think I should "oil" the Ram Flo? 
I bought the one with blank backing plate; wanna make sure the carb support bracket fits properly...we'll see in a few days.  May even try to go around the block if
the roads are dry and temps are above freezing...oh yeah; gotta flush front brake lines...hope there's no shocking surprises there. I'm going to replace lines real soon but I have to ensure I have the right (and serviceable) master cylinder on the handlebars.  Haven't been able to contact the previous owner to ask how the front brake was.  At some point in it's life, a dual-disc front end was put on.  There's a spare pair of fork tubes, too.  He claims front end was from a Low Rider of the era.

[sporty88]

pm sent

[sharkoilfield]

Front brake master cylinder:  In conversation with the former owner, it sounds like the front brake master cylinder is original (single disc) and the bike has a later twin disc front wheel.  My research indicates that HD went to the twin disc in '78 on XL's and FXD's?
So, I'm gonna have to find one of those master cylinders if I want to have front brakes work right, correct?  I don't think I'm gonna waste much time on the stock master cylinder if it's not the right one for twin discs anyway...

[Racepres]

Front brake master cylinder:  In conversation with the former owner, it sounds like the front brake master cylinder is original (single disc) and the bike has a later twin disc front wheel.  My research indicates that HD went to the twin disc in '78 on XL's and FXD's?
So, I'm gonna have to find one of those master cylinders if I want to have front brakes work right, correct?  I don't think I'm gonna waste much time on the stock master cylinder if it's not the right one for twin discs anyway...

Was No FXD in '78... FXE and FXS had dual disk.. and yes the Sportster got dual disk [same front end] at that time..
about the Master cylinder... The single disk MC especially a later one will simply be a bit Smaller diameter... less Volume, but less lever pressure per PSI applied to the Brake...
Master cylinders are available, and labeled.. larger diameter= more Volume= more lever pressure per PSI applied... Nothing More Nothing less...
the worst case scenario would be 2 Large Calipers and a too small MC... would result in not enough volume... and the Lever would Max out [travel] and Not enough Fluid to apply any braking action... again worst case...and something I have Not Experienced with OE components!!!
I routinely change front master cylinder to meet specific needs... including lever travel, and certainly Lever Effort...