Outside oiler options?

[Tow-Truck]

Ever since I got my panhead it's had an oil leak from the back of tappet blocks. Nothing serious but a definate leak. I did over 5000 miles like this but it was getting steadily worse, by the time I was ready to return to England it was a substantial leak. I hoped it might have been the tappet blocks as there was a sheared of bolt in each and the rear one appeared to have three gaskets (turned out to be four!). Well today I removed a refitted the blocks with new bolts. What a job, badly installed heli-coils and two different threads. Huge amounts of silicone everywhere, the sheared bolts appeared to be caused by bolts bottoming out on silicone, they all unscrewed easily getting the plug of silicone out was a bit more involved. Well it's all back together properly now. But, I still have my friend the oil leak. I noticed that the cases  have been welded at some time, between the vee just where the leak is coming from. I had a good look and the weld is still holding, but the grinding down is bit crude. I figure I could replace the base gasket and maybe cure the leak, or maybe not. But either way the fix would always be marginal. So I figured that I would block the oilways from the cases and fit a top end oiler kit. What do you think? What is available out there? I'm not keen on sending my heads away to be modified, I would rather do it myself, as I'm in the UK and I hate to think how much the postage would be to send them back and forth to the US.

[Trip]

Absolutely...take a line from the oil port on the case and feed both cylinders or find a set of outside oiler heads...the barrells will be the same for return....

[Pzokes]

So the lifter block gaskets are holding OK now.  I don't use silicone seal on Harleys.  It gets into the oil passages.  If you really need something that will fill a gap, use Yamahabond of the Three-Bond equivalent.

The base gaskets on the cylinders are a different story.  You might be right that the cylinder base on the cases might not have been "decked" after welding.  You should be able to find a machine shop in the UK to do that.  Some ~ cylinders aren't flat at the base.  You may have a set of them.  See if your cylinders have the Harley numbers at the base of the cylinder.  Cheap base gaskets do dry out, crack and leak.  I use genuine Shovel base gaskets and cut the hole for the oil supply in them.  I use only genuine James Teflon head gaskets.  Don't use the James Fire Ring gaskets, they'll put an indentation in your heads.

I think that outside oiler heads are unnecessary with most Panheads.  Most people that use their Panheads as high mile tour bikes don't use them.  I've had heads modified into outside oilers, but didn't notice any benefits.  Don't use the Easyrider Tech Book method.  It will put the hoses in the way of the carburetor.  If your going to convert the heads, put an allen screw in the old hole in the head, instead of welding it shut. 

[stroker800]

I have outside oilers for my motor,,although it has STD heads....I wasn't that familiar with pans when I set out to build this motor. Its a glorified shovel to say...those I have good understanding of ,,,.
Dave

[fourthgear]

I agree with the above post , it may well be the decking and or cylinder, but the welding would get my attention first ( the weld may be porous )& the fitment between the two . I do use RTV sealent , It has gotten a bad rap because of how much is used by the uninformed. My gaskets , when treated only look wet with sealent , wipe off all excess ( I used to use bare fingers , now I use disposable gloves ).letting it set up for fifteen min. before assem.. I get no leaks .Of course I don't use it on the oil pump gaskets or the Teflon head gaskets or any rubber gasket.