New chain

[04customking]

I've decided not to trust the chain that came on my bike even though it doesn't have hardly any miles on it. Not worth it to me. Craig, I saw you posted awhile back about a new Tsubaki Sigma 530 chain you bought. Any insight as to the best place to buy one? Any other ideas for a good chain? Thanks, Jim

[Little Al]

I've been using Tsubaki chains for a few years and think their great. the one on my Shovel has been running for 50K and has only needed adjustment a few times. when I put it on I put new sprockets on too. I bought mine from my local HD dealer (don't know who he ordered it from) but J&P for sure sells them, I actually just bought one for my Pan from J&P (600-987) for $42 although you can probably get it cheaper. I just happened to be getting a few other things from them and it helped put me over the limit to get free shipping.

[CraigArizona85248]

Jim,

If you are price shopping, the best thing to do is just do a Google search and compare that way.  Seems like prices fluctuate a bit so you never know who has the best price.  I got mine from Dennis Kirk for $150 (or there abouts).  The Tsubaki Sigma 530 is a very different chain from the one Little Al posted.  The Sigma is an O-ring chain that requires little maintenance and is cleaner then a standard roller chain.  The Sigma is also rated at 10,600 lbs tensile strength (vs. 7,040 lbs for the standard roller chain from Tsubaki).  But you sure can't beat getting 50K miles from a chain.  I thought I was doing really well to get 25K miles from my first set of chain and sprockets.

-Craig

[Pynzo]

Try Phat Performance- they've got some good prices too but they only ship Fed Ex.

[Little Al]

I didn't realize they had an O-ring. I've bought O-ring before (CC Rider & Diamond) but always wind up oiling them anyway after wiping them down, I guess just out of habit.

Coming from years of dirt bikes and running loose chains (for the suspension travel) and horrible conditions I've always taken great care of my chains & sprockets, usually cleaned (wiped down with a WD-40 soaked rag) and re-oiled at the end of each day's riding, while the chain is still hot. it may sound like overkill but it really just takes 2-3 minutes to do. I use any brand of that foaming chain lube dirt riders use. it penetrates well and the solvent evaporates fast leaving behind a very slippery film. my wheels stay cleaner then you might think as that type chain lube gets into the links and theres not much to get flung off.
I've also always paid close attention to chain tension. On a street bike with minimal rear suspension (compared to dirt bikes) I run chains with about 1/2" deflection, rigids about the same, maybe a bit less.

anyway, it really has worked for me over the years.

edit to add this:
I also use that same foaming lube for cables. the solvent that carries the lube allows it to get down the whole length of the cable then evaporates leaving them well lubed

[Pzokes]

Most "O" ring chains are a little bit wider and will rub against an early stock rear fender, unless you "make clearance" on the fender before you paint it. 

[04customking]

Thanks guys, I definitely want the O ring chain for the less mess but Pzokes has me worried. I'm out to the garage to see what I have for room.

[Pzokes]

Good luck, I hope that you do have enough clearance.

Also, sometimes the master link may hit the fender if the clip part is towards the fender.

[04customking]

Looks like it won't be a problem at all. I'll get one ordered quick. Just rolled here out into the sun for the first time to wash it. Pics on another post.

[panheaddreamer58]

I just replaced my old chain on my stock 50fl with o-ring chain. I used a RK RX-ring chain. Slight touch to my inner prim tin but put two washers in bolt where tin mounts to upper chain guard and cured it. Although havn' t road test it yet. It also had stock sprockets. Also I am going to try the chain wax instead of the foam .

[Deye76]

Can't remember if it was a RK or a Tsubaki, but on my 93" shovel I had a o-ring that was 530 pitch, but had 630 side plates and was about in-destructable.

[04customking]

I get so pissed off trying to look up simple $hit. Pzokes has me wondering about clearance now. I seem to have plenty of room to the fender. It's to the inner primary that I'm concerned with like panheaddreamer stated. I cannot find any size specs for the o ring chain. Craig or someone else that has one could you please measure the width of the new chain. Man I drive myself nuts.

[panheaddreamer58]

I will include a photo of mine ,it might help. Looking at the front sprocket from the rear.
the red arrow is where I installed two parkerized flat washers to move the inner tin outward. The other place it was close was at the rear brake lever (2nd photo). The new chain had a width of .984 and the old chain was .780. So that makes the new on about .204 wider. That would be about .100 per side.

[Pzokes]

Panheaddreamer58,
You are scaring me.  Please tell me that you are just mocking everything up.  You have no cotter pin on the brake clevis pin, no drilled bolts with castle nuts and vibration springs on the inner primary.

04customking,
Maybe you might be OK, and maybe I've just been unlucky with that past few fenders that we've used.   

[panheaddreamer58]

If you are talking about the bolts where I installed the washers to keep chain from rubbing, they are drilled, with spring also but they had a regular nut on them only. Cotter keys laying on jack to be installed (had to adjust brake because of chain adjustment). Thanks for your observations and concerns. I did finally get it together Sunday for a short ride and I still had some chain rubbing. So back apart to look for another solution. Thanks again.

[Purple Pan Dan]

Nothing but RK or Tsubaki O-Ring for me. All you have to do is put the Master link to the inside and it will clear the inner primary!