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new frame

Started by stroker800, November 09, 2008, 11:48:27 AM

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stroker800

  I have scored a 4 speed frame...pre 69 . A friend has had it many years,,,,he was gonna hardtail it with a V twin piece. I have talked him into a swap..I have a softail frame(easy to hardtail)   Here ia where I start messin it up...I run a 5 speed with kicker...I don't want to invest more$$$$  So I'm gonna cut and lengthen the rear of the frame to accept the tranny, I only need 1",,,,I have done this before,,,no problems   But I want to keep runnin the belt drive,,,,,,thi is where it gets messy...I don't even know if the swingarm is wide enuff or if the belt will be to short????Biting off more tr
ouble for no reason.

dave

Pzokes

I'm curious, when you did the last 5-speed in a 4-speed frame did you use a Paughco 5/4 trans plate?

If you talk to Phil Ross, of Supermax Belt Drives, he'll let you know what you need for the conversion.  It does require a little grinding on the lower rear part of the early frame with a 4-speed belt drive transmission.  I'm not sure about the 5-speed, but I guess that your belt centerline should be the same.  BDL has a c/to/c belt length chart on their website. 
There's miles to go before I sleep.

stroker800

  Pzokes....the last time we stuffed a 5 speed into a 4 speed frame we used a Vulcan tranny plate, a offset tranny gear for a wider tire, dished rear pulley and a chain drive ,a BDL clutch ,a softail primary inner with an offset and we cut the frame behind the tranny mount and added 1" slugs to lengthen the frame.  So it was a matter of a long drive chain fit to size....I have also put a 4 speed into a softail frame, offset tranny plate, 1/2 spacers too lift the tranny free of the shocks,,,but un able too use a primary case,,,,So outer bearing support and a 3" open and a couple of fabbed heim joints and tabs to keep motor and tranny from movin....OH yea never hurts to know a guy with a mill...I need one myself.
Dave

chris haynes

Why not simply buy a 5 into 4 case and bolt it in.
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shovelmonster76

I put a fiver in a 1980 frame and had to cut the frame to make it work. You will have to weld on a tab for your front bolt or just run it without like I do. You will have a gap between seat and tank. I had to extend it to 1.5 inches, which after welding and spacing left me at about 1.75" but fairly easy and way cheaper than a new frame. I run a 150 rear and clear the tire by a half inch.
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