My daily dumb question....

[Big Dan]

Throttle and idle cables. Is there a certain procedure to adjusting them? If there is, I've never been able to find it or figure it out. I've always just adjusted 'em so that I know I get WOT, and then taken up the slack in the idle cable. That's always worked just fine on all my other bikes. My problem is, the throttle on this particular bike does not want to return. I've gotten it to return in the past by just messing with it and messing with it until I stumble upon what works, but I can't seem to find the magic formula this time around.

Cables are fairly new, well lubed and routed properly. The little spring at the end of the one cable is in place (I don't remember if it's the throttle or idle cable, but I know it's there). The cables aren't binding on anything. If you disconnect the cables, they (and the twist grip) operate smooth as silk. If you then open the throttle body by hand and release it, it snaps closed just like it ought to. But ya put the 2 together, and it just doesn't want to return. I don't get it. It worked before I took it apart for paint.

I had a bad little mishap because of it last year at just about this time, and to be perfectly honest, I'm just a little paranoid about it. If my hand comes off that grip for any reason, I want the freakin' throttle to close, just like it ought to. Unless I've got the cruise set, of course. So... what am I doing wrong?

As always, thanks for the help.

[Clintster]

Dan mine will do that from time to time if I spend to much time spraying bug meat off the mirrors without covering the throttle.  The grip sleeve will need a  little lube between it and the bar, seems I wash the freakin lube out of there. 

[road-dawgs1]

From the manual (non cruise control)

1. Slide rubber boot off throttle cable adjuster. See Figure
2-107. Holding cable adjuster with a 3/8 inch wrench,
loosen jam nut turning in a clockwise direction. Back jam
nut away from cable adjuster until it stops. Turn adjuster
clockwise until it contacts jam nut. Repeat procedure on
idle cable adjuster.
2. Point the front wheel straight ahead. Turn the throttle
control grip so that the throttle is wide open (fully counterclockwise)
and then hold in position. Now turn the
throttle cable adjuster counter-clockwise until the throttle
cam stop just touches the stop plate. See Figure 2-108.
Release the throttle control grip and then tighten the jam
nut against the throttle cable adjuster. Cover cable
adjuster mechanism with rubber boot.
3. Turn the front wheel full right. Turn the idle cable adjuster
counterclockwise until the cable housing just touches
the spring in the cable guide (as seen through slot).
Work the throttle grip to verify that the throttle cable
returns to the idle position when released. If the cable
does not return to idle, turn the adjuster clockwise
slightly until the correct response is achieved. Tighten
jam nut against the idle cable adjuster and cover cable
adjuster mechanism with rubber boot.

Cruise

CABLE ADJUSTMENT
NOTE
Always adjust the cables in the sequence presented below,
that is, throttle and then idle cable. The cruise cable only
requires adjustment if the cruise module or cruise cable are
removed or replaced, and then it must be adjusted last using
the CABLE LASH INITIALIZATION routine on the next page.

THROTTLE CABLE
1. With handlebar in straight ahead position, idle cable
adjusted to full slack and throttle control grip turned to
wide open throttle (WOT), adjust pull open cable to
obtain full throttle opening at carburetor/induction module
2. Twist throttle grip to full closed position. Check that idle
stop-screw is touching idle stop with handlebar in
straight ahead position, and while turning handlebar
from “lock-to-lock”.
NOTE
If idle stop-screw is not touching idle stop, adjust (loosen)
pull-open cable just enough so that contact is made through
full lock-to-lock handlebar movement. Also check that cruise
cable has slack and is not opening throttle. Loosen cruise
cable if required.
3. Rotate throttle grip to WOT and release. Throttle must
return to idle position freely. If it does not, check for
incorrect cable routing, damaged cables or binding in the
throttle grip.

IDLE CABLE
1. Remove left side saddlebag. See Section 2.25 SADDLEBAG,
REMOVAL.
2. Gently pull side cover from frame downtubes (no tools
required).
3. Lift the locking latch and remove the cruise module connector
[17]. With idle cable still adjusted to full slack position,
connect ohmmeter to violet/yellow and orange/
violet leads on connector [17A].
4. Ohmmeter must indicate infinity (switch contacts open).
If ohmmeter indicates continuity, the roll-off switch may
be shorted and entire cable must be replaced.
5. With handlebar in straight ahead position, adjust idle
cable until approximately 0.06 inch (1.5 mm) of freeplay
exists at the outside diameter (OD) of the throttle grip.
6. With light force, rotate the throttle grip toward the closed
position. The ohmmeter must indicate continuity. If it
does not, decrease freeplay at throttle grip by adjusting
the idle cable to obtain continuity while maintaining
some freeplay at the throttle grip.
7. While holding the throttle grip (with light force) in the
closed position, turn handlebar from “lock-to-lock”. Ohmmeter
must indicate continuity throughout handlebar
movement.
8. With handlebar in straight ahead position, rotate throttle
grip to WOT and release. Throttle must return to idle
position freely.
9. Repeat step 8 with handlebar at full left and right positions.
If throttle does not return to idle position freely,
loosen idle cable slightly and repeat steps 6-9.
10. Install cruise module connector [17] and engage locking
latch.
11. Align barbed studs in side cover with grommets in frame
downtubes and push firmly into place (no tools
required).
12. Install left side saddlebag.

[cig]

I know you probably know this, but make sure the whole assembly isn't on there too far bottoming the grip on the bar.

[Big Dan]

Hell, I never even thought of that, Don. I don't think it is, though. The bars are 1-1/4" so there's a step that only lets it go on so far. You can bet I'm headed out to the garage right now to take a look though.

[Ultraman]

LOL road-dawgs1 beat me to it... I was just scanning those pages out of the book 

[Big_Bulky_RK]

Yup, I did the same thing.  Followed the process by the book only to find out the problem wasn't a miss adjusted cable but the grip was pushed on to far and binding on the bar.  let us know your findings.

[Big Dan]

I started tearin' stuff apart, and found a lot of little problems. The little bearing in the IAC arm feels like it has sand in it. The pieces that slide over the throttle shaft just feel loose and sloppy compared to the same pieces on the Gerolamy TB that will be going on soon. The cables don't feel as smooth as I seem to remember them. So, everything gets cleaned and lubricated and goes back together in the morning. If necessary, I'll temporarily add a second throttle return spring of some type.

We leave on a trip in 10 days. When we get home, I'll order the IAC kit (it appears that's the only way to get the arm) and new cables. Hopefully I can scrounge up that arm somehweres without buying the kit. The kit is 68 bucks, and IAC motor works just fine. I'll install those pieces when I do the new TB. That time frame will be dictated by finances. I can't install the TB until I can afford to have the bike tuned. I'm also waiting for a 12mm adapter for my compression tester to arrive. I want to check CCP and possibly advance the cams 4 degrees when I do the throttle body job.

Thanks for all the suggestions.