Speaking of batterys

[rbabos]

Not sure the vrsc spec is accurate with 02 and later. My 13 has 310 cca and the terminals swapped sides from the early ones.  Late models don't use compression releases so more cca is needed.
Ron

[FSG]

some additional information

that P on the label indicates that it is a Parts & Accessories Battery and so only has a 12 months warranty whereas the OE Battery has 24 months warranty.




notice there is no P on the battery Karl posted as it is OE in his Dyna and so has 24 months warranty.

[Hossamania]

Just picked up a Duracell from Batteries Plus for the Ultra. Did not let them load test it, on the Tender now before I fire it. Probably a Deka. We'll see how long it lasts.

[Hossamania]

Just picked up a Duracell from Batteries Plus for the Ultra. Did not let them load test it, on the Tender now before I fire it. Probably a Deka. We'll see how long it lasts.

Reviving this thread for an update.
Using a Battery Minder, this battery and another from the same time are still going.

[Hossamania]

You cannot see attachments on this board.

[kd]

    Extrapolate the $30 cost of a battery tender over what is easily the cost of 2 more batteries that you won't have to buy because you have properly maintained the one you have.  It even helps justify spending a little more for a more powerful version with the savings you will realize. You will then benefit with a higher level of performance that may come in handy one day.

[Finn]

Out of curiosity:

Do you guys see any difference between Harley and Deka batteries in how they last?

[snakeoil]

Just catching up on this discussion. Might be in the market for a new battery. Yuasa comes highly recommended. But their best series is only 5CCA higher than my 65989-97D. I guess the question is, do they last longer if properly cared for? I know the Yuasa name is the gold standard for bike batteries that are conventional LA or VRSLA type.

[Hossamania]

"Do they last longer if properly cared for?"
Yes. Keep them clean. Make sure the terminals are tight. An occasional trickle charge to top them.
I like to trickle charge, or rather a "maintainer" to charge a new battery before using, before load testing it. Do not run them down too low. Do not crank the starter excessively trying to start a vehicle, find the problem, or let them cool down, charge the battery, and try again. Your battery and starter will thank you. Try to keep them from vibrating excessively.
Recognize the symptoms of a battery that is getting weak, replace it then, don't push them too far, your starter does not appreciate that.

[jsachs1]

Just catching up on this discussion. Might be in the market for a new battery. Yuasa comes highly recommended. But their best series is only 5CCA higher than my 65989-97D. I guess the question is, do they last longer if properly cared for? I know the Yuasa name is the gold standard for bike batteries that are conventional LA or VRSLA type.

My take on batteries. Deka, I find is the best. Any battery with SOLID lead posts, are the ones I believe in. Especially if your bike has starting PMS. The ones with lead posts, that have a nut slipped in are the worst, if you have to crank a little more than normal, the posts will melt, battery becomes junk.
John

[Hossamania]

We had a battery post break off on a bike on a group run. I pulled a sheet metal screw out of a newspaper box, screwed it into the top of the terminal using a multi tool (not the ideal screwdriver for pushing on a slotted screw into solid lead!), and off we went!
Got a free drink out of that one.

[snakeoil]

Yeah, some of the battery posts leave a lot to be desired. I bought a NAPA battery when my HD initially gave up and it needed the dreaded spacers. My fix was to simply solder the spacers to the posts.

Never thought about this before, but as a bullet caster, I think you could probably improve on an iffy set of terminals with a simple mold made from sheet aluminum and then pour molten lead over the existing terminals. You could even cast a brass nut into the terminals in the process.

Found a review of batteries for HD and a number of no-names came up. The CCA rating for the top one was impressive. But it begs the question, "Is it true or more BS from Chinese vendors?".

I'm not a farkles guy so I don't have a big electrical load on the bike. Basically, it lights and ignition and of course starting the engine. So, having massive CCA is nice, but not a requirement. The HD currently in the bike is a Rev C with 315CCA shown on the case. I wonder if that is truly accurate, or like the old dyno numbers, a blip on the meter during a test. All the replacement batteries I've seen (did not look at Deka yet) show 310CCA with the exception of the GYZ type Yuasa which are 320CCA.

Looked at Deka. The terminal are identical to what was on that NAPA battery, complete with the brass spacers. That old NAPA battery is in my Ural. I need to see if it has any identifying marks that would confirm it was made by East Penn. Deka CCA is 310 like the others.

I think I'm starting to miss having a kick starter. My Knucklehead starts every time, dead battery or not.

[Hossamania]

Delete

[Deye76]

I got a Yuasa for my 110" RK in 2016, when the 2 year old OE quit. Yuasa still going, keep it on tender when not riding.

[Hossamania]

My next battery will probably be a Drag Specialties from my local Indy dealer. They've got them, and I'll need one in a hurry when it happens. If not, maybe an HD, or one from Batteries Plus again. Certainly can't complain about 6 years of use out of this one. I'm kind of stubborn, I'm sure I'll try to keep this one going for too long just to prove a point. Not sure what that point is, but I'll prove it, dammit!

[wfolarry]

Just catching up on this discussion. Might be in the market for a new battery. Yuasa comes highly recommended. But their best series is only 5CCA higher than my 65989-97D. I guess the question is, do they last longer if properly cared for? I know the Yuasa name is the gold standard for bike batteries that are conventional LA or VRSLA type.

My take on batteries. Deka, I find is the best. Any battery with SOLID lead posts, are the ones I believe in. Especially if your bike has starting PMS. The ones with lead posts, that have a nut slipped in are the worst, if you have to crank a little more than normal, the posts will melt, battery becomes junk.
John

When I changed my battery last time I did this. Major improvement. It's an Interstate battery & it's been the best one yet. 

[snakeoil]

Bought a generic 6v AGM from Interstate for my Indian 4 in 2014. Held up well. Had to replace it this spring. Starting  to think USA made, DEKA or Interstate is the way to go when the time comes.

[smoserx1]

Out of curiosity:

Do you guys see any difference between Harley and Deka batteries in how they last?

Pretty sure Deka, X-rated Big crank and Duracell are all the same, made by East Penn.  They all use those little brass spacers.  I had one Duracell and it lasted just fine, I replaced it when it was a little over 4 years old and it was getting pretty weak.  Now I have a Yuasa (the more expensive one).  It is doing fine, but IMO no better that the Duracell and it costs more.  No spacers required with it however, which is nice.

[vetteandharley]

  I'll be replacing the battery in my 2002 Heritage with another Odyssey.  Got 9 years out of the first one 8 years out of the second.  More expensive but with the longer life well worth it.  I should mention it's always kept on a tender.