Engine Guard-Mounted Fog Lamp 68000118 Installation - Electrical

Started by albertg, June 26, 2016, 09:54:34 AM

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albertg

Hey all -

I have a question regarding installation of the Engine Guard Mounted Fog Lamps (Part No. 68000118) and Front Turn Signals (Part No. 69577-06) on a 2014 Road King.  I plan to remove the "stock" lightbar/fog lamps/front turn signals, and use the above items instead.

In the 2014 Touring Models Service Manual, on page 7-20, Figure 7-16 shows the "Left Side Connectors: Road King".

Does anyone know if the Engine Guard Mounted Fog Lamps (Part No. 68000118) and Front Turn Signals (Part No. 69577-06) can be connected to Connectors #3 and #4 (Right and Left auxillary/fog/turn signal lamps) in Figure 7-16, and if so, will the fog lamps be operated manually using the corresponding stock left side auxillary lamp toggle switch on the back left side of the nacelle??

I am planning to remove the stock light bar/accessory lamps/front turn signals assembly altogether, and instead install the above fog lamps (Part No. 68000118), and front bullet turn signals (Part No 69577-06) kits, and am wondering if both the new fog lamps and new turn signals can be connected to the #3 and #4 Connectors in Figure 7-16?? I am assuming Connectors #3 and #4 would provide the appropriate power, grounding and switching needed, since I am removing the stock light bar (accessory fog lamp and front turn signals).

I've done a search on a few forums for installation instructions for these fog lamps. I did not find any info regarding using Connectors #3 and #4 in Figure 7-16 in this scenario.

Does anyone know, or can point me in the right direction??  I tried HD Tech Support...no help whatsoever.

Thanks all...






UltraNutZ

I'm pretty sure a relay is required to appropriately power the lights.
Politicians are like diapers.
They need to be changed for the same reasons

UltraNutZ

ok so I read into this a bit more, sorry for the short response above - was preoccupied yesterday.

so my first question is with turn signals already on the bike, why don't you simply connect your new bullet turn signals to the existing blk/brown/blue (right side) and blk/violet/blue (left side) and be done with that.  the signals will work just as they did previously.  Guess I'm not understanding why you'd want them to be able to be turned on and off with a switch when they're a legal requirement in most (if not all) states.  :scratch:

Now the fog lights; how exactly do you want them to operate?

       
  • do you want them on all the time the ignition is on? (*disclaimer* check with your local laws for this type of install)
  • do you want them to be on only when low beams are on (this is the way all HD wiring will dictate they be installed)
  • do you want them to simply be on a switch where you can turn them off and on regardless of position/function of your headlamp?

Let me know and we'll go from there.


Politicians are like diapers.
They need to be changed for the same reasons

albertg

Hey UltraNutZ,

Thanks for your reply.

To answer your questions, I want the new front turn signals to operate just like the stock turn signals.  I want the new engine guard fog lamps to operate manually just like the stock fog lamps by the switch on the left rear of the nacelle. 

Since I am planning to remove the stock lightbar/fog lamps/front turn signals, this leaves Connectors #3 and #4 (left side of frame neck) vacant.  These connectors are used for the stock right/left fog lamps, and front turn signals.  Please see 2014 Touring Models Service Manual, on page 7-20, Figure 7-16.

I assume I could wire the new fog lamps and new turn signals to Connectors #3 and #4 and keep the same function as the stock fog lamps and front turn signals.  The power requirements appear to be the same for the stock fogs/turn signals and the new fog/turn-signal kits I want to install.

The installation instructions for the Engine Guard Mounted Fog Lamps -Part No. 68000118 (too large to attach in this post) require tank and seat removal and connection of the new fog lamp harness to the data link connector under the left side cover (for power I assume).  I'm guessing I will not need to do this because I am removing the stock lightbar/fog lamps/turn signals, and that will leave Connectors #3 and #4 vacant/open for hook-up of the new fog lamps and new turn signals.  Can you confirm that I can use Connectors #3 and #4 for the power/switching requirements for the new fogs and turn signals?  If so, I won't need to run the new fog lamp harness back to the data link connector under the left side cover.

If I can use Connectors #3 and #4, I realize I will need to do some splicing of the 68000118 fog lamp harness and/or move some pin-wires around to make the appropriate hook-ups to Connectors #3 and #4.

In Figure 5 of the 68000118 fog lamps instructions, it looks like I can just re-route the wires from connector #11 of the fog lamp wiring harness to Connectors #3 or #4 on the bike.  I assume this hook-up to Connector #3 and #4, will also retain the function of the left rear nacelle switch to manually control the new fog lamps, and eliminate the need to install the fog lamp control switch included with the 68000118 kit harness (Figure 5, #12).

I hope this makes sense.  I turn some wrenches on my bike but don't have a lot of electrical knowledge for these circuits.  I sincerely appreciate your time and help to confirm use of Connectors #3 and #4 for this install.  I'm not getting to many replies on 3 different forums (HD Forums and V-Twin Forums). 

Thanks so much...

UltraNutZ

I'll make 2 suggestions to you from past experience.

Pop your headlight and leave it out for this exercise so it won't be in the way.

Here's your parts list from AutoZone.
(1) water protected fuse holder.  The type of fuse holder is up to you but I suggest this one because it's sealed to the elements.
(1) 20a atc fuse for above fuse holder
(15') 12/14 ga wire.  you won't need this much but better to have too much
(1) 30A Relay.  I suggest this one.
rubber or plastic snap in grommets for holes drilled in guard.  USE THEM to protect the wires
(1) small tube of non-acidic silicone or gasket sealant - can't remember the part # from autozone, just ask for it.  Acid will eat away at the chrome.






1. take an extra few minutes, to measure where you want your lights to mount precisely on the bar and wire them internally.  it looks SO much better. 
Drill a hole from the bottom up where the light mounts and a single hole from the top down at dead center of where the guard attaches to the neck with the 3/16" hex bolt.  Extend both the black and white wires on each lamp about 36" and run both your white and your black wires coming from each light into the bar and to the center hole.

2. the harness that comes with that light kit, leave it in the box and use it another day.


Run you a single fused 12ga or 14ga wire from the battery (fuse it AT THE BATTERY) and put a 20a fuse in it there and run wire into the nacelle. If you pop your tank off, you'll be able to run the wires in the wiring trough up to the nacelle for a clean install.  Don't install fuse until your are 100% done and ready to power everything up.  Installing fuse at battery protects your bike if anything were to short out.  You have another fuse on the grey/black wire on the nacelle switch that protects it from that side.


the black wire coming from both lamps, ground to the chassis (the 3/16" hex bolt is perfect location for this to keep it short and sweet)



pin 86 on relay goes to the grey/black wire on your existing switch that is controlling your passing lamps now
pin 87 on relay goes to both white wires coming from lamps
pin 85 on relay goes to a good solid ground (the same 3/16" bolt above is a good one)
ping 30 on relay goes to the wire you just ran from your battery




it's a little more work, but when you're done, you'll thank yourself for not having wires exposed.  Very clean looking install.


Politicians are like diapers.
They need to be changed for the same reasons

albertg

Hey UltraNutZ,

Thanks for the suggestions and write-up/links.  I appreciate your help.

Regards

UltraNutZ

sorry never did answer your question directly.

yes on both the connectors.  you'll have the appropriate wires in the turn signal connector for your new turn signals.  You'll also have the appropriate wires in the fog lamp connector although I don't think the power requirements are the same.  The engine guard mounted fog lamps draw about 10A I believe whereas the stock is more in the neighborhood of about 5A.  I would add the additional safety factor into it if you use the stock wiring for passing lamps to power your fog lamps by using the above instructions and using a fused relay to power them.
Politicians are like diapers.
They need to be changed for the same reasons