Wiring o2 sensors on an 06 ultra

[harleytq]

This is on an 06 ultra. Running the wiring for o2 sensors.
What is the best thing to do with the ground wires coming from the 02 sensors? The position #26 , that the TTS manual says to use in the ecm plug, is already used, do I splice into that wire, or can I just run the ground wires to the frame ground?

[Coyote]

You should take it back to the ECM.

[wolf_59]

This is on an 06 ultra. Running the wiring for o2 sensors.
What is the best thing to do with the ground wires coming from the 02 sensors? The position #26 , that the TTS manual says to use in the ecm plug, is already used, do I splice into that wire, or can I just run the ground wires to the frame ground?

On the conversion thread a few years back everyone was splicing into the ground wire #26 for the ECM, I have done 3 conversions since 2009 using the frame as ground without any issues so far ( hate the thought of using vampire clips to splice wires on a harness )

[harleytq]

On the conversion thread a few years back everyone was splicing into the ground wire #26 for the ECM, I have done 3 conversions since 2009 using the frame as ground without any issues so far ( hate the thought of using vampire clips to splice wires on a harness )
[/quote]
Yeah I would think its doing the same thing as long as the ground is good. I hate to cut into a wire like that either. Guess I will try the frame ground.
Thanks Tim

[Coyote]

The frame ground is dirty and can only add noise to the sensor voltage. Just not a good way to go IMO. The reason you take sensor grounds back to the ECM to prevent contamination of the signal will high current loads going through the frame ground.

[wolf_59]

The frame ground is dirty and can only add noise to the sensor voltage. Just not a good way to go IMO. The reason you take sensor grounds back to the ECM to prevent contamination of the signal will high current loads going through the frame ground.

but I have also verified my tunes by using my digital AFX afr meter after Vtuning and results showed it works with afr values +/- .1 of commanded afr

[harleytq]

The frame ground is dirty and can only add noise to the sensor voltage. Just not a good way to go IMO. The reason you take sensor grounds back to the ECM to prevent contamination of the signal will high current loads going through the frame ground.

What is a good way to splice into the #26 wire or are there other open positions in the plug that also are ground?

[glens]

The frame ground is dirty and can only add noise to the sensor voltage. Just not a good way to go IMO. The reason you take sensor grounds back to the ECM to prevent contamination of the signal will high current loads going through the frame ground.

What is a good way to splice into the #26 wire or are there other open positions in the plug that also are ground?

compression butt-splices with heat-shrink tubing overlay

[harleytq]

So i would need to cut the wire and crimp 2 wires in each side then? Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I'm not the greatest at wiring.
And where do i get a compression but connector?

[N-gin]

The frame ground is dirty and can only add noise to the sensor voltage. Just not a good way to go IMO. The reason you take sensor grounds back to the ECM to prevent contamination of the signal will high current loads going through the frame ground.

Don't know about the bike frame, but in the audio world we use frame grounds on the amplifiers to eliminate the noise on high powered amps.

[Coyote]

The frame ground is dirty and can only add noise to the sensor voltage. Just not a good way to go IMO. The reason you take sensor grounds back to the ECM to prevent contamination of the signal will high current loads going through the frame ground.

Don't know about the bike frame, but in the audio world we use frame grounds on the amplifiers to eliminate the noise on high powered amps.

While I would disagree with that logic as well, it really has no relevance to sensors. Your audio power amps today have a very high common mode rejection so they are much more tolerant of ripple on the power supply than single ended sensors are.

[Durwood]

Herko was one of the first to make this conversion, before it was ever in the TTS manual, you might shoot him a pm and see what he has to say about it.

[glens]

So i would need to cut the wire and crimp 2 wires in each side then? Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I'm not the greatest at wiring.
And where do i get a compression but connector?

This youtube video shows what I'm talking about.  (I should've used the term "crimp" instead of "compress", sorry.)

I don't have a preferred place to recommend getting them from, so try google and see what catches your eye.  Unless you're way out in the middle of nowhere, you should be able to find them at an auto parts store or electrical supply house just about anywhere.

You'll want one sized properly to accept the two wires together on the one end.  If that becomes too large for the single wire on the other (ECM end), you can carefully insert just enough bare wire alongside the single lead to properly fill the hole, but not long enough to protruded beyond the heat-shrink tubing.  No need or desire to have a bare wire end exposed as it'll oxidize and eventually corrode the connection inside.  Of course, if you're adding two leads that last bit is unnecessary, as the second lead will fill that role.

You could also use an automotive style connector similar to what's used elsewhere on the bike, but I don't think the added expense for that is warranted as this is a permanent modification (you'll not want to go back to open-loop-only operation once you get it up and running).

If that don't get you what you need to know, ask again

[glens]

The frame ground is dirty and can only add noise to the sensor voltage. Just not a good way to go IMO. The reason you take sensor grounds back to the ECM to prevent contamination of the signal will high current loads going through the frame ground.

Don't know about the bike frame, but in the audio world we use frame grounds on the amplifiers to eliminate the noise on high powered amps.

While I would disagree with that logic as well, it really has no relevance to sensors. Your audio power amps today have a very high common mode rejection so they are much more tolerant of ripple on the power supply than single ended sensors are.

It's been may years (decades, I suppose) since I've messed with automotive audio, but I do recall encountering induced hum from ground loops.  I agree, keep the signals clean.

[harleytq]

I sent TTS an email, Vickie wrote back saying "do not use the frame", connect into the #26 pin. So that is my plan then.
Thanks guys

[Coyote]

I sent TTS an email, Vickie wrote back saying "do not use the frame", connect into the #26 pin. So that is my plan then.
Thanks guys

Yeah, whoda thunk it. 

[harleytq]

One more question, do you guys think it would be better to solder the ground wires together or use a butt connector with heat shrink on it?

[Coyote]

Unless you have quality crimping tools (ratcheting type, prefer dual crimp) and good quality connectors (not those sold at auto stores), you are better off soldering them with heat shrink.

Here is a quality crimp tool. I prefer to use the Morris dual crimps which allows the conductor to be crimped at one level and the wire insulation to be crimped at a lesser level for strain relief.  If you go with crimp, you won't be able to crimp the insulation on the side that has two wires though.

[attach=0]

[Sunny Jim]

I have specialised in auto wiring for 40 years. 99.9% of vehicles across the board have crimped terminals throughout !!
,
But I still prefer solder and hear shrink. ( dual wall heat shrink)
Especially in adverse conditions.

[Coyote]

I have specialised in auto wiring for 40 years. 99.9% of vehicles across the board have crimped terminals throughout !!
,
But I still prefer solder and hear shrink. ( dual wall heat shrink)
Especially in adverse conditions.

   On my own bike, I always solder and shrink. The heavy shrink with the adhesive lining makes a good water proof joint.

[Sunny Jim]

  that's the one!!!!!

[krwson]

And don't use plumbing solder. ;-)

[harleytq]

Where can you get the heat shrink with the adhesive, do auto parts stores have it?

[Sunny Jim]

down under it is marketed as 'Dual wall heat shrink'