Fired up the 113

[Reddog74usa]

Just got he 113 fired up this eve. No leaks oil or fuel and great oil pressure 50 psi which I'm sure will be lower once the oil gets hot. I just ran it long enough to adjust the carb bout 2-3 min. The valve train was clacky for a bit but settled down and is quiet. Only problem so far is my pipes turned tan fairly quickly. I did set the timing statically according to the engine manufacturers instructions but have not had a chance to get the timing light on it yet. Are the pipes turning that fast normal on these engines or is the timing that far out? I know a bit of color is normal but for it to happen so fast doesn't seem right to me. There not a dark brown or purple, just a light to medium tan. The engine seems to run good and smooth from what i could tell in the short time I had it running.

[wfolarry]

Sometimes it's the chrome that does it or if the pipes were dirty. if it's just light tan you can get that out.

[Kevin]

Glad she's fired up RD!!! That is going to be a missile in your FXR....... SICK!!!!

[Reddog74usa]

I'll give it a try Lare. Kev thanks, You can be sure I'll be gettin er dialed in enough to ride it this weekend, i just have to get my face full of oil to do it. (set timming)

[1711tab]

Just got he 113 fired up this eve. No leaks oil or fuel and great oil pressure 50 psi which I'm sure will be lower once the oil gets hot. I just ran it long enough to adjust the carb bout 2-3 min. The valve train was clacky for a bit but settled down and is quiet. Only problem so far is my pipes turned tan fairly quickly. I did set the timing statically according to the engine manufacturers instructions but have not had a chance to get the timing light on it yet. Are the pipes turning that fast normal on these engines or is the timing that far out? I know a bit of color is normal but for it to happen so fast doesn't seem right to me. There not a dark brown or purple, just a light to medium tan. The engine seems to run good and smooth from what i could tell in the short time I had it running.

Congratulations... Once you have it dialed in it's going to be a handful... ENJOY...

[Admiral Akbar]

I'll give it a try Lare. Kev thanks, You can be sure I'll be gettin er dialed in enough to ride it this weekend, i just have to get my face full of oil to do it. (set timming)

Steve,

IIRC Ultima uses a Dyna ignition... If so set it statically depending on the compression, you'll want to place the T make in the middle or left (ret 3 deg). Do it by rotating the rear wheel and looking for the LED to go out with a mirror.. Plugs out of the heads  11 to 1, probably means curve 4 (middle)..  Adding a voes switch will help you keep from bluing the pipes during break in..

Max

[Reddog74usa]

The Ultima came with an ignition that had no dials on it so I bought a DTT. I am running a DTT on my 99 FLHR so i also got the cable which works with both the evo and TC ignitions. i set the static timing with the plugs out and the T just to the left of center then turned the ignition pick up in the nose cone till the red light on the DTT just goes out and locked it down. is it necessary to set the timing with a timing light after that or is say curve 4 a good start? i would think varifying where the timing is by timing light is the correct way to do it but I've never had one of these fancy do dad ignitions that set static timing with the led light before.

[Admiral Akbar]

I'm not sure what a good map would be with the DTT, but you don't need the light.. It's like checking if your computer is running right with a screwdriver..    Since the advance mechanism is all software (firmware), if the unit is working so is the advance.

Lock it down and check it with by turning the rear wheel like I said.. That way you know the plate didn't move..

Bruce

[Reddog74usa]

Got it. thanks

[Reddog74usa]

 I set the timing as per the earlier post and also marked the rotor and inner primary with the corresponding marks on the fly wheel so i could check timing with a light and not have to deal with the oil coming out of the timing plug hole. Total timing is in by 2500 but I checked it up to 4000 and it stayed steady at 28 degrees which is what I set it at for break in. Took it out for a 20 mile ride mostly back roads and 2 lane highways with one red light in town. Ran very smooth with good oil pressure. Also seemed to run reasonably cool as I have seen a new engine run hotter on a stock H-D. Oil temp stayed between 165-185 and I could hold my hand on the oil tank for as long as i wanted. When i got it home I let it cool down and pulled the plugs, they looked super clean, not white, tan or black just kind of like out of the box clean. I thought this was just a bit to lean so I replaced the 27.5 pilot jet with a 30 on the Mik 45. I also noticed the mark on the ground strap on the spark plug was past the bend and close to the ring of the plug. Is this ok or is it an indication that the timing is to far advanced? I took it out for another 20 mile ride. Engine ran very good and seemed to like the additional fuel. I called it a day and will pull the plugs tomorrow to see if there is any difference. 

[deathwish]

It is hard to read new plugs. Go with what is considered safe jetting and get some miles on the plugs and then jet runs and read them. To do it right you need to read your plugs by throttle opening runs and not just run them and shut the bike down like after a ride.

[Reddog74usa]

Thanks DW I know I'm not getting a full range reading doing it like this, I'm just making sure I don't stick a piston or burn anything up as it is a new engine with now only 40 miles on it. The manufacturer recommended a 25 pilot but with a 27.5 it seemed a bit lean so I upped it to a 30 to be safe till I get more miles on it. I will be sending a S&S "G" out to get bored and set up for this engine and until I get that back I just want to get some break in miles on it so I am not going to get to into tuning the mik 45 for peak performance as I just want to get it close.