2011 Road King with intermittent stumble

[les]

My 2011 Road King recently started doing the same thing.  When it gets warmed up it has the same "missing" or stumble at the same RPM range and throttle position.  I think I'll start out with the front head temperature sensor, as suggested.  The bike has 73K miles.

I tried Seafoam thinking it might be dirty injectors but that did not make any difference.

Question:  A while back, some bikes had problems with the injector wires wearing out.  I can't quite recall if this issue pertains to my year bike.

[les]

I had a Temp Sensor go bad on my 2012.  The bike ran okay until warmed up then started running rough, especially in low and mid range. I had a TTS tuner and the way it was found was to look at the computer readout of the temp.  It showed some bizarre low temps after running for a while and was loading too much fuel into injectors.  Look for erratic temps on computer to see if that is the issue.

Are you taking about the sensor that screws into the front head, or the TMAP?

[PoorUB]

Sensor in the front head.

[CndUltra88]

I have spent the better part of a few months chasing a effin ghost in my V-6 Blazer engine.
Dam thing would stumble at hwy speeds off the line at lights and a rough idle too.

Changed the cap and rotor along with plug wires too and still it would stumble.
So, not believing to check sparks plugs because they where new and installed by a highly regarded shop ...
Well, guess what, four outta six plugs where cracked...
Go Figure...my advice is look at your two spark plugs and wires too for signs of arcing or cracked ceramics...
Rob

[les]

As mentioned, for about the past month I've been noticing the same stumbling (occasional missing) as bodean46 describes.  I've got an H-D Code Master.  Today I cleared out all the codes and took a test ride.

Road 2 to 3 miles and pulled over and sampled codes:  (Didn't get stumbling during this ride.)

    P0132:  Front Oxygen Sensor High / Engine Rich
    P0154:  Rear Oxygen Sensor Open / Not Responding

I then cleared the codes.

Then I rode about 20 miles and pulled over and sampled codes again:  (I did get stumbling during this ride.)

    P0132:  Front Oxygen Sensor High / Engine Rich
    P0152:  Rear Oxygen Sensor High / Engine Rich
    P0154:  Rear Oxygen Sensor Open / Not Responding

Do you think I should go ahead and buy a front head temperature sensor and give that a try?

[les]

As mentioned, for about the past month I've been noticing the same stumbling (occasional missing) as bodean46 describes.  I've got an H-D Code Master.  Today I cleared out all the codes and took a test ride.

Road 2 to 3 miles and pulled over and sampled codes:  (Didn't get stumbling during this ride.)

    P0132:  Front Oxygen Sensor High / Engine Rich
    P0154:  Rear Oxygen Sensor Open / Not Responding

I then cleared the codes.

Then I rode about 20 miles and pulled over and sampled codes again:  (I did get stumbling during this ride.)

    P0132:  Front Oxygen Sensor High / Engine Rich
    P0152:  Rear Oxygen Sensor High / Engine Rich
    P0154:  Rear Oxygen Sensor Open / Not Responding

Do you think I should go ahead and buy a front head temperature sensor and give that a try?

Do you have a tuner you can use to see what the temp sensor is doing?   If it is bad, I do believe it could cause those codes by keeping the mixture rich and railing the O2 sensors.

Yes, I have a tuner but not real handy with it.  I know the SERT Pro Tuner has the ability to capture (record) data.  I'll read up on it and get some readings.

[les]

Here is my recording using the SERT Pro Tuner. 

100 - 122F
200 - 163F
300 - 181F
400 - 194F
500 - 210F
600 - 214F
700 - 225F
800 - 234F
900 - 234F

[les]

(bodean46, hopefully you don't mind me latching on to your thread and asking folks to help me too since I've got the same problem you do.  I'll back off if it's not right with you.)

I'm thinking my temp chart is looking normal.  Any suggestions on what I might track down next, and maybe how I might do that?

[les]

I'd look at the spark plugs. You should be running a bit smaller gap, I like .038 or smaller on my 10.75:1 98".  K.I.S.S.

I put new plugs in it; first thing I tried.  Thanks for the suggestion.

[les]

Is there any other data I can record with my SERT that I can share with you guys to help me find my problem?  I have the electronics diagnostics manual for my 2011 RK, but I don't have the breakout boxes to perform the tests in the error code sections of the manual.

[les]

This is very similar to when my rod bearings went out.  I couldn't find anyone who had experience with the situation to help advise me. 


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[les]

Since no one has any suggestions, I think I'll try a new set of injectors. 


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[harrr-bike]

A o2 stuck on high, is a extremely rich condition,the ECM will try to lean the system out. This. Is why you sometimes feel a hitch or a bit of a bog when you have a bad o2.im not sure what you have for live data, but Harley droid and rpm it up don't have any o2 data. When a o2 is operating correctly it should  switch between .1 to .9       .1 is lean and .9 is rich condition. You can unplug it and it will go to default on the ECM ( which is . 45 ) on go for a drive to see how it works. What usually happens is the o2 has a heater circuit and it shorts out ( the heater wire has a 5 volt reference voltage) this shorts out on the signal return wire, instead of running between . 1 to .9 it's running sometimes almost 5 volts and the ECM will do its job to lean it out to get the o2 to switch between lean and rich. You may try to back probe the signal return on the o2 in question with your multimeter to see if it is switching. Or ohm out the signal return wire to the ECM it should show infinity. If high ohms it could be shorted or ground Ed . And check short to ground . Hopefully this helps you

[les]

Thank you very much.  I'll look in this direction next. 


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[les]

harrr-bike, the SERT can record 15 minutes of data.  That's how I got the head temperature graph I posted earlier.  I was looking at the data values I can record and came across these two below.  Do you suggest I take a recording of these data items and post my charts so you can take a look?


O2 Sensor Voltage (Front & Rear cylinders) For Oxygen-sensor equipped vehicles,
the O2 sensor voltage is reported. This will be a value between 0 and 5100 mV.

O2 Integrator Value (Front & Rear cylinders) For Oxygen-sensor equipped vehicles,
the O2 Integrator indicates the deviation from the ideal fuel mixture over a few seconds time.
A 100% value means the AFR is exactly as expected, while higher values indicate the
mixture is Lean and lower values indicate the mixture is Rich.

[les]

harrr-bike, here is a chart I recorded on my SERT of the head temp, the front O2 sensor voltage, and the rear O2 sensor voltage.

The blue line is the head temp.  Do these voltage graphs look off?

[les]

Green is rear O2 sensor.
Red is front O2 sensor.

[les]

Another view with some markers.

[les]

bodean46, again sorry for merging into your thread, as I have the exact same problem you do and I was hoping that between us working through this, one of us would arrive at the answer.

I thought came to me about your situation.  You don't have O2 sensors, so you can't take a try at replacing them like I'm going to try with the ones I just picked up.  Also, you don't have a SERT to record and post data.  But maybe there is a cheap way to rule out your head temp sensor.  If you get a friend to let you try his on your bike, that might work.  They are so easy to take out and put in, that maybe someone you know would not mind and would let you use their temp sensor for a try.

Again, I was able to rule out my temp sensor by recording data with my SERT, which showed a normal graph.

[les]

For my situation, I would not think it would be an intake leak because the codes are saying my O2 sensors are reading rich, not lean.  I bought a new set of O2 sensors and took another recording.

Red:  Head Temp
Green:  Rear O2 sensor voltage
Blue:  Front O2 sensor voltage

[les]

I'm at a loss for what to do next, other than try a new set of injectors.  This is getting expensive.

[Hossamania]

Les, have you checked for intake leaks, in spite of the readings from the O2 sensors?

[les]

Les, have you checked for intake leaks, in spite of the readings from the O2 sensors?

Not yet.  I will tonight.  Thanks. 


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[les]

Les, have you checked for intake leaks, in spite of the readings from the O2 sensors?

I just started the bike on the lift and directed heavy doses of carb cleaner spray on all four sides of the intakes.  The engine didn't vary RPM's.  So, I think the intakes are good.  I always take great care seating the intake seals.

Please keep the suggestions coming.  Again, based on the codes I posted and the SERT recording charts, I'm thinking my only next (waste some more money) step is a set of new injectors. 

[86fxwg]

Les, have you checked for intake leaks, in spite of the readings from the O2 sensors?

I just started the bike on the lift and directed heavy doses of carb cleaner spray on all four sides of the intakes.  The engine didn't vary RPM's.  So, I think the intakes are good.  I always take great care seating the intake seals.

Please keep the suggestions coming.  Again, based on the codes I posted and the SERT recording charts, I'm thinking my only next (waste some more money) step is a set of new injectors.

Get it hot Les & ohm the injectors,12 on the low side 18 on the high side. 16 is what I bet u see. Anything Les than 12 is suspect.
These injectors are pretty bullet proof Les.
Ur head sensor graph is perfect,no drop outs.
Have u physicaly checked fuel pressure?

86