Dyno shootout tips, tricks and tweaks.

[Quick_2s]

Thinking about putting the 114 in a local dealer dyno shootout, does anyone know any tips, tricks, or just some tweaks to get max readings. Stuff like tire pressure variations, plug change or settings, richer/leaner or set afr's @wot (TMAX), ignition timing changes, thinner oil, modified air intake, race gas, more/less baffle. This is the dealer that said that if I built it myself it would never be "right" and if I wanted good result I should not use aftermarket parts.

Oh, and here are the rules;
TC Mod 97+ cu in
No racing slicks
No Nitrous
Any Internal Mods
Unleaded fuel only.

[Scramjet]

Torque or HP?  I am no expert but if HP...

Tire pressure high
No air cleaner
Remove baffles
Raise rev limit
Advance timing
94 octane gasoline plus octane boost
Lowest viscosity syn oil you dare to run

Optional: throttle activated nitrous run from the saddlebag through the frame to the intake manifold under the gas tank.

B

[ToBeFrank]

After you decide on the AFRs for the tmax, make sure you run it down the road 3 times at WOT to have it dial in before you put it on the dyno.

[Quick_2s]

Not sure how they are judging it but I'm assuming hp, I'm thinking overriding to 13.2 on my afr @ wot unless anyone can give me a better option. I can get 110 octane at a local station near the raceway. I will be running a screened velocity stack for air. Rev limit will be jumped from 6400 to 7k because the motor has no balancers. The oil I'm unsure about but I already have the ProFlow oil filter to increase flow and the 30% Baisley spring. Tire will be at 42 which is recommended max. I have a coated Pro-pipe with modded baffle already so I could just take that out for the day. I'm at 11:1 on compression so I can't go but so aggressive with the timing. I have no place to hide nitrous because was a Duece, But it is painted black so maybe that will help. Anyone have anything else?

[Steve Cole]

If your plan is to run race gas you will need to tune for it ahead of time otherwise your going to waste your money on it. What the race gas will allow you to do is run a leaner mixture with more advance and that's what gets the power up. If you do not make the changes for the race gas it can cost you power in some applications. For a dyno shoot out a good starting spot would be ~ 13.5 AFR and as much timing as you can run without pinging. Also if you plan to remove exhaust baffles your going to need to tune that way! The Bosch cheap wide bands will read different as you increase and decrease the exhaust pressure and temperature. You will be both by removing baffles and adding race gas with tuning.

[Quick_2s]

The Tmax seems to adapt fairly quickly to the changes I make depending on what the weather does I'll see how it turns out. Thanks for all the input, any more tips are welcome.

[Steve Cole]

It may adapt for the fuel but does nothing for the timing side. That where you most likely will find more power from, so getting that ready is going to take the time.

[mayor]

Steve touched on this a little bit, but here it is again.  Do not run racing fuel or higher octane gas (or octane boost) in an attempt to post bigger dyno numbers.  Unless the engine is specifically set up for it, the higher octane gas will in all likelyhood produce lower results due to the affects of the increased octane. Octane is not a measurement of power capability, it's a measurement of how well a gas resists compression (or in other words prevent compression ignition). 

[Doc 1]

Steve touched on this a little bit, but here it is again.  Do not run racing fuel or higher octane gas (or octane boost) in an attempt to post bigger dyno numbers.  Unless the engine is specifically set up for it, the higher octane gas will in all likelyhood produce lower results due to the affects of the increased octane. Octane is not a measurement of power capability, it's a measurement of how well a gas resists compression (or in other words prevent compression ignition). 

Mayor is correct on the fuel...run 91 or 93

[Evo160K]

Will you run your bike on the dyno or will someone else do it?

[Quick_2s]

So from what I'm hearing if I run the race gas to enable me to jack the timing more with the Tmax and the 11:1 compression and lock my afr in @ 13.2 in theory I can squeeze a couple more points out without the baffles.

I understand that the race gas won't in itself give me anything just allow me to get more timing on top end without pre-detonation.

I'm assuming they will have the operator run the dyno but..... it sounds like you might know something more Evo.

[Steve Cole]

If the motor will make it, the fuel will allow it to be made, so the question becomes will the motor make it? I've had motors that have made all they can on 89 octane and adding race gas (105) and tuning gained nothing so you will not know until you try for sure.

[Quick_2s]

According to the math from flow/displacement its capable of a lot but we all know that doesn't always stand true I guess I will dot all my I's and cross my T's (and fingers) do the run's (weather permitting) and post the result. I feel like the timing will be the deciding factor on the last few points. My last run was 125.9h/131.5t uncorrected with cams retarded 4 and canned afr/timing map on 93 octane with breather on, so hopefully I can massage it over the 130 mark with no baffle, velocity stack and max tire pressure.... we'll see i guess. I just don't really trust the last dyno and operator I had it on, he was new (less than 2 weeks) and the dyno had been in storage for over a year.

[rigidthumper]

Make sure the bike is completely warmed up- cold cases/pri/trany will rob power.
Robin

[Evo160K]

When permitted, I run the bike.  I want the engine moving up toward 1800-2000 rpm running clear and clean, then "hit it".  With a carb I make sure the tank is full.  Good luck.