May 04, 2024, 11:57:19 AM

News:


P3R Crankshafts

Started by FSG, February 04, 2017, 12:56:33 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Schex3x

The sprocket shaft looks like a polygon press fit.

[attach=0]

[attach=1]

turboprop

1. Interesting design.
2. Funny how the discussion on these occurs annually, in sync with the V-Twin Expo.
3. What is the capability gap that S&S & Darkhorse crankshafts are not meeting that justifies the additional expense of these?
'We' like this' - Said by the one man operation.

jmorton10

Quote from: turboprop on February 07, 2017, 04:49:24 AM

3. What is the capability gap that S&S & Darkhorse crankshafts are not meeting that justifies the additional expense of these?

That's my question too (although they are beautiful)

~John
HC 124", Dragula, Pingel air shift W/Dyna Shift Minder & onboard compressor, NOS

HD/Wrench

Just because you can is the simple answer . Same can be said for many things..

Buffalo

 They ask you to send in your flywheels, so does that mean they modify your existing wheels? If so, from 05 onward aren't you using inferior cast cranks,, not forged! For the price, I would think the entire unit would be made from the finest FORGED steel money could buy.
I'd stick with S&S and know they are good, at half the price. fwiw Buffalo

kd

KD

HD/Wrench

Quote from: Buffalo on February 08, 2017, 07:04:26 AM
They ask you to send in your flywheels, so does that mean they modify your existing wheels? If so, from 05 onward aren't you using inferior cast cranks,, not forged! For the price, I would think the entire unit would be made from the finest FORGED steel money could buy.
I'd stick with S&S and know they are good, at half the price. fwiw Buffalo

good question as if that is the case I would go S&S as the base material is stronger

KingofCubes

I go with R&R flywheels because the base material is even stronger and heat treated harder and balanced twice. The next week link determines weather to spend the extra guetos because the Timken bearing insert will only stand so much pounding. Waiting to see what these forced induction engines do to the lower end. 

build it

Quote from: KingofCubes on February 08, 2017, 12:00:30 PM
I go with R&R flywheels because the base material is even stronger and heat treated harder and balanced twice. The next week link determines weather to spend the extra guetos because the Timken bearing insert will only stand so much pounding. Waiting to see what these forced induction engines do to the lower end.

Stronger how? Balanced twice?

Didn't you build Ray Wheelers bottom end?
Get the principles down first, they'll never change.

Deye76

" base material is even stronger and heat treated harder"

In 48 years of improving the power output of my motors, never have I had a failure because of flywheel base material or heat treating not being adequate.  :scratch:
East Tenn.<br /> 2020 Lowrider S Touring, 2014 CVO RK,  1992 FXRP

KingofCubes

Quote from: build it on February 08, 2017, 06:34:26 PM
Quote from: KingofCubes on February 08, 2017, 12:00:30 PM
I go with R&R flywheels because the base material is even stronger and heat treated harder and balanced twice. The next week link determines weather to spend the extra guetos because the Timken bearing insert will only stand so much pounding. Waiting to see what these forced induction engines do to the lower end.

Stronger how? Balanced twice?

Didn't you build Ray Wheelers bottom end?
I did Ray's bottom end so long ago I can't remember what I did. His old flywheels were trash and were probably replaced with S&S forgings machined by R&R before they changed to their own forgings. R&R uses 4340 rather than 4130 treated to 10-15 clicks more Rockwell points over most others. The first go around is drilling for static check, then the whole assembly is 2-plane dynamic balanced.

build it

Quote from: KingofCubes on February 09, 2017, 02:25:55 PM
Quote from: build it on February 08, 2017, 06:34:26 PM
Quote from: KingofCubes on February 08, 2017, 12:00:30 PM
I go with R&R flywheels because the base material is even stronger and heat treated harder and balanced twice. The next week link determines weather to spend the extra guetos because the Timken bearing insert will only stand so much pounding. Waiting to see what these forced induction engines do to the lower end.

Stronger how? Balanced twice?

Didn't you build Ray Wheelers bottom end?
I did Ray's bottom end so long ago I can't remember what I did. His old flywheels were trash and were probably replaced with S&S forgings machined by R&R before they changed to their own forgings. R&R uses 4340 rather than 4130 treated to 10-15 clicks more Rockwell points over most others. The first go around is drilling for static check, then the whole assembly is 2-plane dynamic balanced.

Interesting process, thanks for sharing.
Get the principles down first, they'll never change.

FSG


kd

So the plug is simply machining access.  :up:
KD

Ohio HD

Plugs the oil galley, as well is the press to expand the pin into the flywheels.

kd

Actually I can see that the diameter of the hole is large enough that it probably could expand the pin for a tighter fit. Is that actually the case though? It would take a decent interference fit and a hard plug.
KD

Ohio HD

Sure, S&S and Darkhorse both use plugs to expand the crank pin into the flywheel.

Ohio HD

This is a DH crank, their plug system, and they weld as well.

[attach=0]

[attach=1]

FSG

and looking at this the P3R is a 5 piece crank

if there is a .009" interference on the crank pin I wonder what is on the sprocket shaft and pinion


Ohio HD

I wonder why even use a five piece pressed design? Seems like it just adds to complexity and cost.

build it

I agree on the 5 piece being less than ideal compared to a 3 piece; p3r has a modular setup, break one part and that alone can be replaced, there's something to be said about that. These cranks are only serviced in house at p3r, according to Dave Minton, the owner; this was a deal breaker for me.

The machining on that crankpin is nothing short of magnificent.
Get the principles down first, they'll never change.

Ohio HD

Quote from: build it on February 11, 2017, 08:27:22 AM
I agree on the 5 piece being less than ideal compared to a 3 piece; p3r has a modular setup, break one part and that alone can be replaced, there's something to be said about that. These cranks are only serviced in house at p3r, according to Dave Minton, the owner; this was a deal breaker for me.

The machining on that crankpin is nothing short of magnificent
.

I would have to agree 

kristian

yah got more hits on the other forum with the same topic.......chaching!!!
Kris

Ohio HD

This is responding to an old thread on the P3R flywheels. I was researching crankshafts a month or so back to see what may be new on the industry for the 124" Twin Cam I'm building. I came across a few sites that speak to problems that P3R had been experiencing. And it appears that they may have closed the doors on their crankshaft production. Their website is also no longer up.

I'm not going to post the other site links I found on this subject. Unfortunately it looks like not enough R&D went into their new design.


https://www.p3rflywheels.com/

jsachs1

I have used prolly 7 or 8 P3R flywheel sets in big inch S&S engines, some with power adders. [attach=0,msg1398891]  The last 2 sets I used had several improvements made in the pinion shaft area. No problems to speak of. Company went out of business for several reasons.
John