HarleyTechTalk

Quote from: kd on Yesterday at 09:22:49 PMFor the above reasons (if it were me) I would stay on track and go one step at a time.  If you just tear it down it'll be hard to inspect everything with any real certainty of finding the demon that has appeared. I am confident you will find the issue if you use good order in your approach.  Either way I expect you will find some mechanical fault other than the ignition timing.

Thanks. That is all pretty much what I was thinking as well. Will open the cam chest and pull the head off tomorrow.

One spare pin, you only measure 4 spots in 90 degree increments.  Bob

Quote from: SixShooter14 on Yesterday at 08:29:48 PM

Quote from: kd on Yesterday at 01:56:55 PM. We'll you have to get the exhaust off anyway.   

alright, exhaust is off... 2 things noticed thus far.
#1 The ignition timing was pretty far off. I must have missed my mark because it was off by probably 8-10 degrees of rotation when I re-static timed it. (CCW if it matters)...

#2 the exhaust valve has shiny oil on it and the inside of the exhaust port is coated with shiny oil on top and dry sooty oil on bottom.... (I'm guessing the oil is misted up from the exhaust gas and it sticks to the top of the port rather than the bottom?)


anyway.... next step? pull head or open cam chest? (or both?)

I would continue the cam chest component confirmation before moving on. Finding the timing error is good but not likely the cause of the wet oil.  Remember the plug was black for some time.

IMO if the intake valve is dry when you view it through the port after the intake manifold is removed and you find the exhaust wet it could indicate an exhaust valve seal is damaged. If the intake valve is wet too, the intake valve seal may be the one that is damaged.  If you didn't use viton seals it can be more common to damage them.  The viton seals will withstand more severe service conditions.  A few things could cause that including lack of lubrication that day that you put some miles on it trying to get the oil pressure up or just heat (even from the timing issue) allowing the seal hat to release from the top of the valve guide and start to float under the valve spring retainer.  Oil on the top only will be unburned vapor and the soot will of course be combusted oil. (the mass of the oil vapor will cause it to fling high as the exhaust valve is open on the exhaust stroke)

Hopefully the wet unburned oil isn't from cylinder damage occurring during the aforementioned lack of oil flow period. Slight amounts of oil slinging off the flywheels into the cylinders is part of the big picture keeping the pistons, rings and barrels lubed. The rear cylinder gets the first portion and if there is none left the scraper between the rear and front cylinder will reduce the chance of any getting into the front barrel.  That can cause piston, ring or cylinder damage.  Now that you have oil flow the oil may be introduced through a bad ring / piston seal.

For the above reasons (if it were me) I would stay on track and go one step at a time.  If you just tear it down it'll be hard to inspect everything with any real certainty of finding the demon that has appeared.  I am confident you will find the issue if you use good order in your approach.  Either way I expect you will find some mechanical fault other than the ignition timing.

     

A 570 may be a better choice

Quote from: kd on Yesterday at 01:56:55 PM. We'll you have to get the exhaust off anyway.   

alright, exhaust is off... 2 things noticed thus far.
#1 The ignition timing was pretty far off. I must have missed my mark because it was off by probably 8-10 degrees of rotation when I re-static timed it. (CCW if it matters)...

#2 the exhaust valve has shiny oil on it and the inside of the exhaust port is coated with shiny oil on top and dry sooty oil on bottom.... (I'm guessing the oil is misted up from the exhaust gas and it sticks to the top of the port rather than the bottom?)


anyway.... next step? pull head or open cam chest? (or both?)

A manually operated switch . Or i have hooked into starter relay to power em .

Here are the photos from DH where they use the fixture to measure sprocket shaft runout. I really don't know why they supply five magnetic pins, it would make more sense to me to use six. The pins would be spaced out evenly. See my drawing below, five pins vs. six pins. I hope there's some instruction in the tool kit that speaks to their reasoning for five pins. Otherwise I'll be calling them.











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Thanks for the Input Hrdtail...   I'm definitely not a tuner...    the last maps I added into the TTS system were open loop....   the ecm for the 02 glide isn't set up to use the O2 sensors.  I think it was about ten or so years back when I first bought the glide... a buddy of mine bought a set of very loud RB Racing pipes, and he was very satisfied with them ...   I bought a set of much quieter baffled pipes from RB Racing, and got the TTS tuner , too... all a package deal...   and the guys on one of the other forums I was on pointed me in the right direction for downloading a tune from the TTS database...   Steve Cole was on that site and his recommended map was the one I went with.... 
When I had the bike in the shop to do the tensioners , cam chest and cams , and a few other maintenance issues, I went back to look for that site to see if I could find a map that would optimize the new cams....   That course of action didn't work out as planned....  I'm glad I found you guys on this thread...   I haven't added the O2 sensors , because of the ecm issue...   I wouldn't have known about that issue without you guy's input on this thread.... so I'm glad i found youse...   and I appreciate your input

At start up. Not every time. Just and only when you touch the start button, and only for that instant.

Quote from: sfmichael on Yesterday at 08:51:57 AMThat cam will make great power, I'm pretty sure you'll love it. At .585 lift you will be right at the safe limit for stock heads / valve springs. Have you considered having the heads freshened up while they are off?

This particular motor only has 15K miles on it and I'm wanting cams that will work best with stock heads, but I could probably stretch the budget to a simple valve job.

Are you recommending upgrading the springs? S&S say it's a "bolt in cam for 103".

Thanks