HarleyTechTalk

Quote from: Adam76 on July 17, 2020, 04:06:57 AM
When looking at the oil pump, what is the procedure? Just pull it off, have a good look inside for wear or chips on the gears and any debris and put it back together? I'm assuming I need new gaskets.

I'm going to inject some unsolicited opinion here. So take it for what it's worth...

I'll be the first to say that working on the oil pump with the engine in the frame is a total pain in the arse. Getting the C clips off, and back on, especially that outer one but also the inner, is a serious exercise in frustration. Yes, that drive gear looked a little odd, but did not look "shredded" to me. I would replace it "just because", but I don't think I'd bother with the oil pump. As far as you can recall, were there any oil pump related systems when the bike was running? I'm guessing no.

If there were a few small chips that came off that drive gear, they would have gotten sucked up by the scavenge pump and may or may not have scratched the cavity up a little as they passed through, and then ended up in the oil filter. A few small scratches are not going to affect the function of the pump to any degree to worry about. I've seen some pretty trashed oil pump cavities, and if the pump had not been taken apart, you would have never known anything was wrong.

Anyway, your call. If you decide to go for it, you won't enjoy it...

-JW

Quote from: JW113 on July 17, 2020, 08:29:05 AM

Quote from: Adam76 on July 17, 2020, 04:02:20 AM
I did have a quick look at that and one of the rods has a bit of play side to side... more than I would have expected. I'll have to measure it?

The front (knife) will be have more side to side than the rear (fork), that is normal. If the rear has much side to side wiggle, then measure it. But what I do for a quick check is to pull up on the rod with one hand, and pound the top of it with the other hand. If you can feel any movement (i.e. knocking against the crank pin) it might have too much roller clearance from wear. Usually you can feel no movement at all. But the reality is, these roller bottom ends, if not abused and maintained well, last a long, long time.

-JW

The way I check also... pull and smack... no "clunk" good to go...Tougher than a ten inch tiger turd!!!!

Quote from: Adam76 on July 17, 2020, 04:06:57 AM
When looking at the oil pump, what is the procedure? Just pull it off, have a good look inside for wear or chips on the gears and any debris and put it back together? I'm assuming I need new gaskets.
Thanks

Based on some other posts here I realise your engine is still in the frame...........my bad I thought you had pulled it out.
Oil pump in frame is quite a job and if you don't have good circlip pliers and a steady hand along with good eyesight that cam chest one is a real bitch to do.
You have to hold your tongue in just the right position as well.
Here is a photo that shows you just where it has to go and this is with a completely empty cam chest.
[attach=0,msg1355270]

When you replace the circlip Scotty has in the picture, be ABSOLUTLY sure that it isn't SPREAD so far that the key can fly out when running. Also installation is easier, if you remove the rear cover on the oil pump, and finesse the rod to the circlip.
John

Also do not install the pump drive gear on the crank until you have tightened the oil pump.
This way you can verify the oil pump stack is well aligned and the pump spins easily with your fingers.
If the pump won't spin easy with fingers, loosen the pump bolts and reposition the pump, retighten and retest.
Repeat until the pump spins freely.

Your pump will thank you....