The Antigravity ATX30-RS battery has two sets of terminals, so the battery can be used in different applications. Do they supply plastic covers for the two sets of terminals that you won't be using? Or do you have to fab something yourself?
(https://antigravitybatteries.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/lithium-restart-battery-4-terminal-design-antigravity.jpg)
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My ATX30-HD came with at least 2 (one ea. red and black) and a pair of protective rails that fit under the battery. If you need them I'll bet a phone call or email will do it. I can tell you that my extra posts are in use for charge and heated gear Jack's. They are a great addition to a touring bike.
I don't know your intention with the RS version is but you should be aware that your seat will have to be removed to access the restart button. It was initially intended to have a remote but production was delayed. For that reason, I chose to use the HD version. It has 970 CCA as compared to the RS at 880 CCA. The difference is the HD has a lower voltage protection and can be reset (turned back on) with enough cranking amps to restart by simply tickling the positive side anywhere (like the starter lug) with 12 volts. A small jump pac or a wire from another vehicle or battery will suffice. The HD is more tolerant to heavy draw with the lower protection point setting and is less likely to switch itself off. That's why AG recommends the HD over the restart for big high compression engines even though many say the RS has worked flawlessly for them.
Quote from: kd on September 19, 2021, 05:52:33 PM
My ATX30-HD came with at least 2 (one ea. red and black) and a pair of protective rails that fit under the battery. If you need them I'll bet a phone call or email will do it. I can tell you that my extra posts are in use for charge and heated gear Jack's. They are a great addition to a touring bike.
I don't know your intention with the RS version is but you should be aware that your seat will have to be removed to access the restart button. It was initially intended to have a remote but production was delayed. For that reason, I chose to use the HD version. It has 970 CCA as compared to the RS at 880 CCA. The difference is the HD has a lower voltage protection and can be reset (turned back on) with enough cranking amps to restart by simply tickling the positive side anywhere (like the starter lug) with 12 volts. A small jump pac or a wire from another vehicle or battery will suffice. The HD is more tolerant to heavy draw with the lower protection point setting and is less likely to switch itself off. That's why AG recommends the HD over the restart for big high compression engines even though many say the RS has worked flawlessly for them.
The restart feature is a great bonus for just in case. I spin over my 124" with 380 cca now. So the 880 cca will be more than enough. I need a new battery for the 124", so I may as well jump in with both feet, get one of these and a CTEK charger.
I was just curious about the additional terminals being exposed. A little Gorilla Tape will insure they stay there.
To AG's point, any accidental power draw like key on, lights, stereo, security etc can bite you and shut the battery down to protect it. It may just draw it down and when you try to start it the starter draw pulls (spikes) the voltage draw down to the protection point before the engine rolls and shuts it off. The HD allows it to spike much lower and reserves more because it has more.
I bet you'll put the extra terminals into service and won't use the caps. Your CTEC badger comes with a specially configured water proof jack and as said I added that and other jacks for my heated gear which double to reset the battery (which has never been required). The bottom of the seat is nylon or plastic and doesn't come close to contact and likely won't need them.
BTW, I also dropped $35 on the Battery Tracker so I could monitor all aspects of charging and cranking performance. It's a neat gadget and Bluetooth to my phone. It gave me a greater appreciation of what the battery is capable of. It has a memory and I even used it to see the exact time I started the bike to leave and reach destination points. :teeth:
The seat doesn't come close because the ECM and ECM/battery bracket are above the battery. I'll only use the CTEK when the bike sits a while. As far as gadgets, mehh, it's a motorcycle. I never even turn the radio on except for on a long ride when on open road and no traffic. I prefer to listen to the bike, it's part of the experience of riding them.
Do yourself a favor and call the company to discuss battery for your application. I bet they won't recommend the RS model.
Just trying to help based on real world experience.
Quote from: TN on September 20, 2021, 03:59:00 AM
Do yourself a favor and call the company to discuss battery for your application. I bet they won't recommend the RS model.
Just trying to help based on real world experience.
I suspect that you know something, so why not tell us?
Quote from: Ohio HD on September 20, 2021, 07:58:11 AM
Quote from: TN on September 20, 2021, 03:59:00 AM
Do yourself a favor and call the company to discuss battery for your application. I bet they won't recommend the RS model.
Just trying to help based on real world experience.
I suspect that you know something, so why not tell us?
He's just echoing what Kd posted...
They recommend the HD version, that has the lower voltage protection point, for larger displacement engines.
I sent them an email, asking why the restart battery is not recommended for my 124" engine. This was their reply..
Staff <info@antigravitybatteries.com>
To:
hattitudexxxxxx@yahoo.com
Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 2:35 PM
Hello Bernie,
Thank you for reaching out to us.
Those 103 ci and larger engines create a very high current draw, so they can trigger the Restart feature of the ATX30-RS.
In other words, the battery itself can handle that engine just fine, but its Restart parameters for the "sleep mode" are not set up for that kind of a draw.
Kind of like how some cars could easily reach 160 mph but are electronically limited to 140 mph.
For your bike we recommend the ATX30-HD. It doesn't come with the Restart feature, but still offers full BMS and all the protections, while packing even more cranking power and a higher capacity. This battery allows for a higher draw those engine create.
If you can fit Yuasa's YTX20 battery in your bike (6.89 x 3.4 x 5.12 in), then you can use the ATX20-HD, the YTX12-20, and the YTX12-24 as well.
I hope this helps, but please let me know if you have any additional questions.
Best Regards,
Sonny
I appreciate the info.
Quote from: Ohio HD on September 20, 2021, 07:58:11 AM
Quote from: TN on September 20, 2021, 03:59:00 AM
Do yourself a favor and call the company to discuss battery for your application. I bet they won't recommend the RS model.
Just trying to help based on real world experience.
I suspect that you know something, so why not tell us?
Using their search function on their website suggested my stock cvo 110 to use the RS model you listed, then if you look further there is statements not to use the RS model on such. After I had ordered one I caught that and called, I shipped the order back and they wouldn't refund my monies for shipping either way, left a bad taste in my mouth, tried to reach out to them and no response.
YMMV
I'm just a parts changer BTW, so wut the heck do I know. I can ride though. :SM:
Turboprop, what's your take on the restart battery?
Quote from: turboprop on July 07, 2020, 12:38:42 PM
I have not talked with anyone at AG. Ever. My history with these things is I was an early adopter of Lithium batteries. Loved the light weight, slow to non existent discharge, and incredible power. Early on there were nay sayers about about having to warm them up in cold temps. That turned out to be a non issue, but the real issue was letting the voltage get too low. Unlike a traditional AGM there is no bringing one of these back. I bricked a bunch lithium batteries from a bunch of different brands, including a pre-restart AG and a Twin Power unit. All of the brick-ings were my own fault. I left something on and walked away without knowing. When I saw the re-start video, it was like a light bulb had turned on. Whalla! The one in my red/white FXR with the TC124 with 12.9 compression is going on three years. That battery has gone into re-start mode a few times (my own fault), but every time I simply press the button and it fires up. Immediately. About that firing up, the voltage drop with this battery is negligible. Admittedly, the rest of the system is pretty robust, bordering somewhat on ridiculous. , but this engine fires (not cranks) immediately when the start button is pressed. No cranking, no waiting for the crankshaft to spin three times. Press the button, instant ignition. Always. A bunch of my friends bought into th Twin Power batteries when they came out. They worked great, but did not have any type of internal protection like re-start. Myself and everyone I know have bricked them. TP explained what we did wrong and even offered to comp me one. But i recognized it was my fault and bought a re-start battery. Best battery I have ever had. I have the same battery in both of my FXRs equipped with high compression TC124 engines.
Brian, just so you know, what I was saying and I am sure you get it, both the RS and HD have the protection (as pointed out by Hattitude) but the procedure to reactivate is different. Because the RS button is under the ECM it can be more hassle to reset than having a harness connector off the spare terminals that you can "tickle" from an external position with ease and no tools. Plus it has way more power and therefore reserve to the BCM cutout point.
Quote from: Ohio HD on September 20, 2021, 09:03:08 AM
Turboprop, what's your take on the restart battery?
Quote from: turboprop on July 07, 2020, 12:38:42 PM
I have not talked with anyone at AG. Ever. My history with these things is I was an early adopter of Lithium batteries. Loved the light weight, slow to non existent discharge, and incredible power. Early on there were nay sayers about about having to warm them up in cold temps. That turned out to be a non issue, but the real issue was letting the voltage get too low. Unlike a traditional AGM there is no bringing one of these back. I bricked a bunch lithium batteries from a bunch of different brands, including a pre-restart AG and a Twin Power unit. All of the brick-ings were my own fault. I left something on and walked away without knowing. When I saw the re-start video, it was like a light bulb had turned on. Whalla! The one in my red/white FXR with the TC124 with 12.9 compression is going on three years. That battery has gone into re-start mode a few times (my own fault), but every time I simply press the button and it fires up. Immediately. About that firing up, the voltage drop with this battery is negligible. Admittedly, the rest of the system is pretty robust, bordering somewhat on ridiculous. , but this engine fires (not cranks) immediately when the start button is pressed. No cranking, no waiting for the crankshaft to spin three times. Press the button, instant ignition. Always. A bunch of my friends bought into th Twin Power batteries when they came out. They worked great, but did not have any type of internal protection like re-start. Myself and everyone I know have bricked them. TP explained what we did wrong and even offered to comp me one. But i recognized it was my fault and bought a re-start battery. Best battery I have ever had. I have the same battery in both of my FXRs equipped with high compression TC124 engines.
I have the ATX-20 (680 Cranking Amps) in all three of my FXRs (w/TC124 engines). Love them. I cannot imagine ever using a different battery in my FXRs.
The re-start future has saved me several times. Not sure what the issue would be getting to the button on a bagger, but on my FXRs I can get under the seat, hit the button, and close the seat in under a minute. My bagger might take a little longer as I have to snake my hand under the tour pac to the thumb screw holding the seat down. But thats it, and it is not like this has to be done frequently.
I will add that my TC124s all crank at over 200 Lbs CCP. The red bike has a Cycle Tech 2.0kw starter and I have never heard the engine crank. It simply fires off the instant the start button is pushed. Warm, cold, freezing, doesn't make a difference. The other bikes have little 1.4kw starters. They crank, but not very long. Again, no issues with ambient air or engine temps.
On some touring bikes (2010-2014 for sure) there is a tray that is mounted above the battery. The ECM, security antenna and purge valve mount to that tray. There are also two bolts holding the tray down. So depending on where this reset button is, you may not be able to get to it without removing all that stuff.
That's my point Coyote. You need tools to access. I have the HD version in a 2011 and use a charger connector jack to allow a flash to turn it on again. Much easier. The 12V tickle has no amperage requirement so even a small jumpstart is plenty.
I don't know anything about c trek chargers,I'm using an Optimate 4s5A, works well. Their literature states they are recommended by various battery manufacturers and AG is listed. I'd put up a put up a screenshot but I'm not sure it's allowed.
Quote from: Coyote on September 20, 2021, 12:08:22 PM
On some touring bikes (2010-2014 for sure) there is a tray that is mounted above the battery. The ECM, security antenna and purge valve mount to that tray. There are also two bolts holding the tray down. So depending on where this reset button is, you may not be able to get to it without removing all that stuff.
My 2008 and 2009 are the same, the seat and the ECM and battery retainer have to come loose and lift up. In the event of a dead bike out on the road or parked where you don't have a charger. The restart would be really nice.
I'd have too look at my bikes and see if I could fab a rocker made from plastic that could be pulled to rest the battery. I don't know that there's room.
$400 is a good amount to pay for a battery, I can get it for $350, a little better. North of $550 for a battery, I'll use a Yuasa 500 cca AGM.
Quote from: kd on September 20, 2021, 01:37:37 PM
That's my point Coyote. You need tools to access. I have the HD version in a 2011 and use a charger connector jack to allow a flash to turn it on again. Much easier. The 12V tickle has no amperage requirement so even a small jumpstart is plenty.
All I have to do is have the charger and the time if I'm not at home with the bike. Kinda defeats the advantage of the lithium to me, the restart is the feature that attracts me to it. My 124" cranks over hot with 380 cca, even when heat soaked.
Quote from: turboprop on September 20, 2021, 12:02:56 PM
Quote from: Ohio HD on September 20, 2021, 09:03:08 AM
Turboprop, what's your take on the restart battery?
Quote from: turboprop on July 07, 2020, 12:38:42 PM
I have not talked with anyone at AG. Ever. My history with these things is I was an early adopter of Lithium batteries. Loved the light weight, slow to non existent discharge, and incredible power. Early on there were nay sayers about about having to warm them up in cold temps. That turned out to be a non issue, but the real issue was letting the voltage get too low. Unlike a traditional AGM there is no bringing one of these back. I bricked a bunch lithium batteries from a bunch of different brands, including a pre-restart AG and a Twin Power unit. All of the brick-ings were my own fault. I left something on and walked away without knowing. When I saw the re-start video, it was like a light bulb had turned on. Whalla! The one in my red/white FXR with the TC124 with 12.9 compression is going on three years. That battery has gone into re-start mode a few times (my own fault), but every time I simply press the button and it fires up. Immediately. About that firing up, the voltage drop with this battery is negligible. Admittedly, the rest of the system is pretty robust, bordering somewhat on ridiculous. , but this engine fires (not cranks) immediately when the start button is pressed. No cranking, no waiting for the crankshaft to spin three times. Press the button, instant ignition. Always. A bunch of my friends bought into th Twin Power batteries when they came out. They worked great, but did not have any type of internal protection like re-start. Myself and everyone I know have bricked them. TP explained what we did wrong and even offered to comp me one. But i recognized it was my fault and bought a re-start battery. Best battery I have ever had. I have the same battery in both of my FXRs equipped with high compression TC124 engines.
I have the ATX-20 (680 Cranking Amps) in all three of my FXRs (w/TC124 engines). Love them. I cannot imagine ever using a different battery in my FXRs.
The re-start future has saved me several times. Not sure what the issue would be getting to the button on a bagger, but on my FXRs I can get under the seat, hit the button, and close the seat in under a minute. My bagger might take a little longer as I have to snake my hand under the tour pac to the thumb screw holding the seat down. But thats it, and it is not like this has to be done frequently.
I will add that my TC124s all crank at over 200 Lbs CCP. The red bike has a Cycle Tech 2.0kw starter and I have never heard the engine crank. It simply fires off the instant the start button is pushed. Warm, cold, freezing, doesn't make a difference. The other bikes have little 1.4kw starters. They crank, but not very long. Again, no issues with ambient air or engine temps.
Thanks Ed, I figured your point of view hadn't changed, but wanted to ask. I'm just at 200ccp and use a 1.4kw starter, and always lights up with a jab at the button. I think I'll give the restart battery a shot. I'm in the habit of using a battery tender on an AGM when the bike will sit a week or so. I just may have to be more diligent with my efforts using the lithium charger. More than likely, if it doesn't start I'm home, but you never know.
I'll have to look at the bikes, but I may be able to just create an access hole or slot, what ever fits, in to the top of the ECM caddy.
I use an oversized chrome thumbscrew to retain the seat, so that's removable by hand. Then lift the ECM from the caddy, and if it all lines up, restart.
(https://i.imgur.com/hS7p4HB.jpg)
CTEK 56-926 charger that AG recommends is 92.99 at rcagarage.com
I also got a 56-564 Comfort indicator/charging port on sale for 7.99
Shipping was quick and free with $100 order.
On my FXDXI I ran a battery tender SAE harness up to the front of the gas tank and connected a water resistant SAE splitter/Y so I have 2 SAE plug-ins. One has the 56-564 which gives a general indication of the battery charge and allows the CTEK charger to plug in. The other SAE plug-in I use for a dual USB charging port. Both the Comfort indicator and the USB port are on flat top of the frame right at the front of the tank.
Quote from: Ohio HD on September 20, 2021, 07:34:38 PM
Quote from: turboprop on September 20, 2021, 12:02:56 PM
Quote from: Ohio HD on September 20, 2021, 09:03:08 AM
Turboprop, what's your take on the restart battery?
Quote from: turboprop on July 07, 2020, 12:38:42 PM
I have not talked with anyone at AG. Ever. My history with these things is I was an early adopter of Lithium batteries. Loved the light weight, slow to non existent discharge, and incredible power. Early on there were nay sayers about about having to warm them up in cold temps. That turned out to be a non issue, but the real issue was letting the voltage get too low. Unlike a traditional AGM there is no bringing one of these back. I bricked a bunch lithium batteries from a bunch of different brands, including a pre-restart AG and a Twin Power unit. All of the brick-ings were my own fault. I left something on and walked away without knowing. When I saw the re-start video, it was like a light bulb had turned on. Whalla! The one in my red/white FXR with the TC124 with 12.9 compression is going on three years. That battery has gone into re-start mode a few times (my own fault), but every time I simply press the button and it fires up. Immediately. About that firing up, the voltage drop with this battery is negligible. Admittedly, the rest of the system is pretty robust, bordering somewhat on ridiculous. , but this engine fires (not cranks) immediately when the start button is pressed. No cranking, no waiting for the crankshaft to spin three times. Press the button, instant ignition. Always. A bunch of my friends bought into th Twin Power batteries when they came out. They worked great, but did not have any type of internal protection like re-start. Myself and everyone I know have bricked them. TP explained what we did wrong and even offered to comp me one. But i recognized it was my fault and bought a re-start battery. Best battery I have ever had. I have the same battery in both of my FXRs equipped with high compression TC124 engines.
I have the ATX-20 (680 Cranking Amps) in all three of my FXRs (w/TC124 engines). Love them. I cannot imagine ever using a different battery in my FXRs.
The re-start future has saved me several times. Not sure what the issue would be getting to the button on a bagger, but on my FXRs I can get under the seat, hit the button, and close the seat in under a minute. My bagger might take a little longer as I have to snake my hand under the tour pac to the thumb screw holding the seat down. But thats it, and it is not like this has to be done frequently.
I will add that my TC124s all crank at over 200 Lbs CCP. The red bike has a Cycle Tech 2.0kw starter and I have never heard the engine crank. It simply fires off the instant the start button is pushed. Warm, cold, freezing, doesn't make a difference. The other bikes have little 1.4kw starters. They crank, but not very long. Again, no issues with ambient air or engine temps.
Thanks Ed, I figured your point of view hadn't changed, but wanted to ask. I'm just at 200ccp and use a 1.4kw starter, and always lights up with a jab at the button. I think I'll give the restart battery a shot. I'm in the habit of using a battery tender on an AGM when the bike will sit a week or so. I just may have to be more diligent with my efforts using the lithium charger. More than likely, if it doesn't start I'm home, but you never know.
I am not sure about the need for the tender with the RS battery. These batteries have very little, if any self discharge. Your newer TC probably has some current draw when it is parked. Experience tells us that it is enough to drain a battery in a relatively short period of time. With the RS tech, once the battery drains down to its limit of advance, the current draw stops. The rider can then simply hit the button, fire it up and go. I had this exact same experience with red this summer. Bike was down for a repair, I have a couple other bikes, it got pushed aside, etc. Made the repair, battery seemed to be bricked. Hit the RS button, it fired off instantly. I have specific tenders for them but rarely use them, and have only had to hit the button a couple of times. Usually because I left the ignition on. I think you will like the battery.
Quote from: turboprop on September 21, 2021, 01:43:58 AM
Quote from: Ohio HD on September 20, 2021, 07:34:38 PM
Quote from: turboprop on September 20, 2021, 12:02:56 PM
Quote from: Ohio HD on September 20, 2021, 09:03:08 AM
Turboprop, what's your take on the restart battery?
Quote from: turboprop on July 07, 2020, 12:38:42 PM
I have not talked with anyone at AG. Ever. My history with these things is I was an early adopter of Lithium batteries. Loved the light weight, slow to non existent discharge, and incredible power. Early on there were nay sayers about about having to warm them up in cold temps. That turned out to be a non issue, but the real issue was letting the voltage get too low. Unlike a traditional AGM there is no bringing one of these back. I bricked a bunch lithium batteries from a bunch of different brands, including a pre-restart AG and a Twin Power unit. All of the brick-ings were my own fault. I left something on and walked away without knowing. When I saw the re-start video, it was like a light bulb had turned on. Whalla! The one in my red/white FXR with the TC124 with 12.9 compression is going on three years. That battery has gone into re-start mode a few times (my own fault), but every time I simply press the button and it fires up. Immediately. About that firing up, the voltage drop with this battery is negligible. Admittedly, the rest of the system is pretty robust, bordering somewhat on ridiculous. , but this engine fires (not cranks) immediately when the start button is pressed. No cranking, no waiting for the crankshaft to spin three times. Press the button, instant ignition. Always. A bunch of my friends bought into th Twin Power batteries when they came out. They worked great, but did not have any type of internal protection like re-start. Myself and everyone I know have bricked them. TP explained what we did wrong and even offered to comp me one. But i recognized it was my fault and bought a re-start battery. Best battery I have ever had. I have the same battery in both of my FXRs equipped with high compression TC124 engines.
I have the ATX-20 (680 Cranking Amps) in all three of my FXRs (w/TC124 engines). Love them. I cannot imagine ever using a different battery in my FXRs.
The re-start future has saved me several times. Not sure what the issue would be getting to the button on a bagger, but on my FXRs I can get under the seat, hit the button, and close the seat in under a minute. My bagger might take a little longer as I have to snake my hand under the tour pac to the thumb screw holding the seat down. But thats it, and it is not like this has to be done frequently.
I will add that my TC124s all crank at over 200 Lbs CCP. The red bike has a Cycle Tech 2.0kw starter and I have never heard the engine crank. It simply fires off the instant the start button is pushed. Warm, cold, freezing, doesn't make a difference. The other bikes have little 1.4kw starters. They crank, but not very long. Again, no issues with ambient air or engine temps.
Thanks Ed, I figured your point of view hadn't changed, but wanted to ask. I'm just at 200ccp and use a 1.4kw starter, and always lights up with a jab at the button. I think I'll give the restart battery a shot. I'm in the habit of using a battery tender on an AGM when the bike will sit a week or so. I just may have to be more diligent with my efforts using the lithium charger. More than likely, if it doesn't start I'm home, but you never know.
I am not sure about the need for the tender with the RS battery. These batteries have very little, if any self discharge. Your newer TC probably has some current draw when it is parked. Experience tells us that it is enough to drain a battery in a relatively short period of time. With the RS tech, once the battery drains down to its limit of advance, the current draw stops. The rider can then simply hit the button, fire it up and go. I had this exact same experience with red this summer. Bike was down for a repair, I have a couple other bikes, it got pushed aside, etc. Made the repair, battery seemed to be bricked. Hit the RS button, it fired off instantly. I have specific tenders for them but rarely use them, and have only had to hit the button a couple of times. Usually because I left the ignition on. I think you will like the battery.
That makes sense, the shutdown I guess protects it from complete discharge. I'll still invest in the proper charger for long term sitting. As you said, the newer bikes have some constant draw, and both of mine have security, so that's always drawing juice.
turboprop has a good point with the tender and restart. I have monitored the charging cycle on the CTEC unit I have and it is very techie. There are 8 levels of charge rate that it proceeds through when hooked up. If the battery is low it starts at the bottom and progresses through all 8 windows. The final is float and it cycles as you would expect without steady feed. When it is adding to a low battery it has a very high rate and will even be felt in heat generated at / on the charger unit. I was able to follow it as it was recorded on my Battery Tracker device.
I have one more comment on the difference between the RS and HD batteries and then I will back away. Technically speaking, both units are in fact restart batteries by the nature of the way the BCM will cut out (put to sleep) both styles. One has a switch and circuit (RS) which takes up space in the case and reduces the available CCA, and the other (HD) has no physical restart mechanism installed which allows more room in the case and therefore allows a higher CCA. The HD however is woke up by a simple 12V signal spike touched to the battery. The HD has more CCA power and therefore does allow a lower state of discharge before it goes to sleep. It is therefore more tolerant of the amperage spike that can be encountered that will trigger the sleep mode on both types battery or if left on for any reason. On the RS you have to access the button. I never did ask if it could be reactivated by tickling it with 12V like the HD but it seems it may. The short explanation is both are restart capable batteries. One has the button and the other gets a 12V touch-up. :nix:
The SAE connector I have installed and is accessible at the seat is good for my heated gear or any other accessory (such as a phone etc) I care to power. I can carry a cigarette lighter plug and extension to excite the battery from another 12v source or use my XP-10 jumpstart pac that I carry to do everything including run my mini tire pump, lap top or chg my phone etc.. I felt if it failed I would be able to claim the longer warranty in good conscience as it is the recommended battery for my high compression 120 that also has security, a fob searching constantly, clock and LO-JAC tracking for theft recovery (not many bikes have this) constantly bearing down on it when not in use so I chose the HD. I have never had it go to sleep even when not in use for a month or maybe more.
I got the ATX20 - hd , for my 116" softail 11.0 comp , like the extra room , spins bike like its stock no probel at all , i did see i chose wrong but it was to late i suppose , it has 900 cca so not sure what was wrong about it , so far so good , i also have manual compression releases and always use them,
The battery showed up on Thursday. Got around to opening the boxes today and am putting a top off charge on it. Amazing how light these are.
The clips on the charging cable of the CTEK charger are really designed for a larger post or lug. I'll get some more appropriately sized clips and replace these for future use. They also sent the on board/bike charging harness for the battery for a large screw, maybe a 10.0mm. So I had to order another on bike harness for the 6.0mm sized screws. I bought it from Amazon and will have it Tuesday. I'll wait to put this in the bike, maybe next weekend.
[attach=0]
so do the lithium JR tenders work ok for these i have one and leave it one the bike all the time when im not using , or should you not keep these always charged not sure on these new batteries , thanks
A proper Lithium charger/tender senses the state of charge in the battery and shuts off the charge current when the battery is at peak. Then over time as the charge state decreases due to various parasitic devices on the bike the charger will sense this and turn the charge current back on.
Check with the manufacturer of the charger and/or battery to make sure your does this. Leaving a Lithium battery on active charge for too long (over charging) is as bad as discharging it too deeply. It can damage the cells and in worse cases cause a fire.
IMHO a bike with a lithium that's used at least once a week for at least 30 miles shouldn't need to be left on a tender. I have one of those booster batteries to jump cars with. It's made by AntiGrav. I top off the charge and put it on the shelf. I check it every 3 months or so and end up topping off the charge every 6 months unless it gets used. During the summer I use it for my RC Airplane flight box. It can also be used as a cell phone, laptop and tablet charger. Handy little battery that fits in a jacket pocket.
Ohio's CTEC charger does it all. It will show you what stage of 8 levels it is in and when it is in float for maintenance. It's real interesting to see the different charging levels it goes through. Some steps are at a rate much higher than common Lithium battery discussions would lead you to believe. I have confirmed that by monitoring it with my AG Bluetooth Battery Tracker.
BTW Brian, AG has all of the size harness eyes etc it most fail to realize what they need when ordering. Ask me how I know. 🤪
Charging my ATX30 this morning with the CTEK charger... couple things...
@100% charge* the charger is only at level 2, same level it started at @85%. The charger is uncomfortably hot.... 140f on my Fluke temp gun.
Charger probably going back to Amazon.
=edit=.... I have the BT battery tracker
I noticed the same thing about my CTEC. I immediately did some research and unbelievably it is normal. It is still one of the AG recommended chargers. Mine has been fine. Just builds more heat than I am accustomed to.
Quote from: kd on September 26, 2021, 05:29:37 AM
Ohio's CTEC charger does it all. It will show you what stage of 8 levels it is in and when it is in float for maintenance. It's real interesting to see the different charging levels it goes through. Some steps are at a rate much higher than common Lithium battery discussions would lead you to believe. I have confirmed that by monitoring it with my AG Bluetooth Battery Tracker.
BTW Brian, AG has all of the size harness eyes etc it most fail to realize what they need when ordering. Ask me how I know. 🤪
It's just easer to order the harness from the CTEK store on Amazon. I bought the CTEK charger from AG, ordered the ATX30 from Dennis Kirk as they have free shipping and it was $50 less than AG retail.
CTEK charger gets hot, one of my friend's does the same...normal.
Quote from: Rockout Rocker Products on September 26, 2021, 09:54:26 AM
Charging my ATX30 this morning with the CTEK charger... couple things...
@100% charge* the charger is only at level 2, same level it started at @85%. The charger is uncomfortably hot.... 140f on my Fluke temp gun.
Charger probably going back to Amazon.
=edit=.... I have the BT battery tracker
I'm new to lithium and this brand charger. But mine has been on now for almost 24 hours. It's barely warm on the back side of the charge. No where near 140°. As long as the charger is sized right, I don't know why it would get that hot. Probably needs to be sent back. When you bought that from Amazon, did you use the CTEK store? If so just send them a note through the CTEK support line on their web site.
Quote from: Ohio HD on September 26, 2021, 02:37:25 PM
Quote from: Rockout Rocker Products on September 26, 2021, 09:54:26 AM
Charging my ATX30 this morning with the CTEK charger... couple things...
@100% charge* the charger is only at level 2, same level it started at @85%. The charger is uncomfortably hot.... 140f on my Fluke temp gun.
Charger probably going back to Amazon.
=edit=.... I have the BT battery tracker
I'm new to lithium and this brand charger. But mine has been on now for almost 24 hours. It's barley warm on the back side of the charge. No where near 140°. As long as the charger is sized right, I don't know why it would get that hot. Probably needs to be sent back. When you bought that from Amazon, did you use the CTEK store? If so just send them a note through the CTEK support line on their web site.
It was from the CTEK store.... it's on it's way home.
I notice in your pic above the light is on stage 2, as mine was at full charge. Did yours ever progress through the stages? Could it have heated up then cooled down by the time you checked it?
Amazon uses (among other places) Kohl's dept. stores for returns. You don't even box it up... just present the item with your QR code. The return receipt was also a $5 Kohl's coupon so I used it on a belt I went there to also buy :up:
Quote from: Rockout Rocker Products on September 26, 2021, 04:04:48 PM
Quote from: Ohio HD on September 26, 2021, 02:37:25 PM
Quote from: Rockout Rocker Products on September 26, 2021, 09:54:26 AM
Charging my ATX30 this morning with the CTEK charger... couple things...
@100% charge* the charger is only at level 2, same level it started at @85%. The charger is uncomfortably hot.... 140f on my Fluke temp gun.
Charger probably going back to Amazon.
=edit=.... I have the BT battery tracker
I'm new to lithium and this brand charger. But mine has been on now for almost 24 hours. It's barley warm on the back side of the charge. No where near 140°. As long as the charger is sized right, I don't know why it would get that hot. Probably needs to be sent back. When you bought that from Amazon, did you use the CTEK store? If so just send them a note through the CTEK support line on their web site.
It was from the CTEK store.... it's on it's way home.
I notice in your pic above the light is on stage 2, as mine was at full charge. Did yours ever progress through the stages? Could it have heated up then cooled down by the time you checked it?
Amazon uses (among other places) Kohl's dept. stores for returns. You don't even box it up... just present the item with your QR code. The return receipt was also a $5 Kohl's coupon so I used it on a belt I went there to also buy :up:
It's at full right now, and isn't as hot as you described. Just a spot on the back of the charger has a warm feel.
I had forgotten about Kohls, I used that a few years ago. Sure was easy.
My Anti-Gravity is 2 years old. When not riding it's on a Battery Tender brand tender, that is designed to switch to Lithium or AGM. The temp in my garage is 69°, the temp on the tender is 72°, as is the other 2 Battery Tenders I have on AGM batteries. Checked the temp on the Anti-Gravity (the out side of the battery), same as the temp in the garage, 69°.
I am a huge Antigravity fan.
In 2015 I bought an ATX-20 for my 124" Roadking. It is still working as well as it did back then. It cranks over my HC 124 like the plugs are out. It starts before I can get my thumb off the button 99% of the time. It has started it when it was 40° in my garage. When it is parked in my garage, I plug it into an Optimate TM 291 lithium charger.
This year I bought an ATX 30 HD when they had a big sale. I figured it can't hurt to have a spare but I am in no great rush to install it as the old one is still working fine. I have it hooked to a Optimate TM 471 charger waiting for when I need it. I also have the bluetooth battery tracker to hook up at that time.
~John
If the 30 ever needs to be tickled to start, I always have a tiny jumpstart module that I figure I can tweak it through the tender pigtail.
~John
Quote from: Coyote on September 20, 2021, 12:08:22 PM
On some touring bikes (2010-2014 for sure) there is a tray that is mounted above the battery. The ECM, security antenna and purge valve mount to that tray. There are also two bolts holding the tray down. So depending on where this reset button is, you may not be able to get to it without removing all that stuff.
A 1/2 inch hole saw under the ECM in the right spot works great. Just unclip the ECM while leaving it plugged in and bam.
6 years on my Twin Power Lithium battery...and it still spins the old Duracell's 124 over with ease. I'm like John...I can't get my thumb off the starter button fast enough sometimes it seems.
I do throw their battery maintainer on it a few times thru out the summer riding season just to see how fast it says it's fully charged. Usually within 2- 3 seconds it says it's full charge. In the winter I leave the maintainer plugged in to the battery and I only take it off if I'm lucky enough to find a good riding day in the winter. It's the best damn battery I've ever had in this bike...by far. I would usually get two seasons out of an AGM battery.
Have the new replacement CTEK on the battery now for 1/2 hr.... 142f and only 2 dots lit. BT battery monitor shows 100% charge & 13.88v. :idunno:
Seems there is no reason for any electronic device to get that hot but I guess it's normal. Only thing I can think of is it regulates voltage by sinking it to ground like a VR on a bike, rather than cycling on & off.
WAIT!!!!! Another dot! :up:
They take much longer to get to full charge than a conventional battery. More when starting at a lower rate of charge. You may be surprised when you track the voltage during charging cycles. It can be quite high. I have mapped it out with my Battery Tracker and viewed it as a continuous graph.
Quote from: jmorton10 on September 28, 2021, 09:20:36 AM
I am a huge Antigravity fan.
In 2015 I bought an ATX-20 for my 124" Roadking. It is still working as well as it did back then. It cranks over my HC 124 like the plugs are out. It starts before I can get my thumb off the button 99% of the time. It has started it when it was 40° in my garage. When it is parked in my garage, I plug it into an Optimate TM 291 lithium charger.
This year I bought an ATX 30 HD when they had a big sale. I figured it can't hurt to have a spare but I am in no great rush to install it as the old one is still working fine. I have it hooked to a Optimate TM 471 charger waiting for when I need it. I also have the bluetooth battery tracker to hook up at that time.
~John
Quote from: jmorton10 on September 28, 2021, 09:50:08 AM
If the 30 ever needs to be tickled to start, I always have a tiny jumpstart module that I figure I can tweak it through the tender pigtail.
~John
John, you and I are singing out of the same Hymn book here.
That Battery Tracker has an adhesive pad for mounting and takes like 10 - 15 minutes to install (on the face of your rear fender behind the battery). You'll find it very interesting and useful. You will able to see exactly what time you started the bike, the cranking voltage drop, used voltage, the charging rate, when you shut it off and the actual charge at any time you are within 30 ft from the bike.
Quote from: kd on September 28, 2021, 07:02:00 PM
They take much longer to get to full charge than a conventional battery. More when starting at a lower rate of charge. You may be surprised when you track the voltage during charging cycles. It can be quite high. I have mapped it out with my Battery Tracker and viewed it as a continuous graph.
It's now up to 5 dots, unit is completely cool. Battery is at 14.1v
Really odd thing is that at 142 degrees it was putting .07 amps into the battery.
Finally got time to put the battery in... no drama. Well, some drama... disconnecting battery on a bike with the factory alarm system :bf:
Few minutes with a loose hacksaw blade & I have Philips screw access to the reset button...
[attach=0]
Hell, I'd be willing to bet that in a pinch I could yank the front of the seat from under it's "mount" and get to the button.
Monitor attached to the second set of terminals, slipped down the back of the battery.
:up:
Here's hoping you never have to press it! :beer:
Should have mentioned the Philips screw is the seat screw. :doh:
I use this, no tools needed.
(https://img.jpcycles.com/zoom/8200102_A_V1.jpg)
I'd have to weld the quarter to a long stick.... '15 Limited :wink:
I don't use the quarter. I tighten by hand, loosen by hand. 2009 Ultra.