HarleyTechTalk

 2010 ultra. I want to take the auto adjuster out. Will a stock adjustable tensioner fit? Any other suggestions?

Set it and scribe a mark on it, remove and clean with brake cleaner reassemble to your marks on the bench clamp and weld it.  Did mine a couple of years ago its been fine since, being a 2010 your chain has done its stretching and the adjustment will last a long time.
I am sure others have done this has I got the idea right here.    Bob

Manual won't fit. If it really bothers you as designed, you can do as Bob suggested. Make sure the correct adjustment is there before scribing and welding.
Ron

Bikers Choice / Twin Power has a great manual adjuster for this, bolt in, no bs
#216094

baker attitude adjuster and be done with it.

Quote from: hardheaded on July 18, 2017, 11:11:32 AM
baker attitude adjuster and be done with it.

That's what I have in my 124" RK & it has worked fine for 2 years.

~John

I've bent 2 of the Bakers. Now running stock auto adjuster welded.

Quote from: FXDBI on July 17, 2017, 02:17:23 PM
Set it and scribe a mark on it, remove and clean with brake cleaner reassemble to your marks on the bench clamp and weld it.  Did mine a couple of years ago its been fine since, being a 2010 your chain has done its stretching and the adjustment will last a long time.
I am sure others have done this has I got the idea right here.    Bob

May be NoCents will chime in but I think that is what he does and I going to do the same thing if I ever go in there

Why not the Hayden unit?  I was looking at one of those.  Does anyone have a picture of a welded stock auto-adjuster?

I tried the Hayden once. It was a howler for sure. Pulled it after a thousand mi. Tried the Baker and it was pretty noisy still at a thousand miles so I pulled it and sold it. I welded my stocker after that and forgot about it.

Thanks for all the replies. I'm gonna weld it.

What's wrong with the stock unit?  The newer ones are more robust than the originals and they don't seem to tend to over-tighten.  My 2010 would flex and then over-tighten as a result.  I put the later Rev unit in and sold the motorcycle at 20,000 miles.  My 2013 has its original tensioner and it seems to be working fine with 40K miles on the clock.

Quote from: 92flhtcu on July 18, 2017, 04:24:30 AM
Bikers Choice / Twin Power has a great manual adjuster for this, bolt in, no bs
#216094

hadn't seen these before
look like a good unit but $195 ?

I have a Hayden
I was very impressed for about 10000 miles
now springs are broken
when I pulled it apart there were signs of fractures in the shoe
both common problems according to a lot of reviews I have since found

Quote from: ssls6 on July 18, 2017, 02:57:05 PMWhy not the Hayden unit?  I was looking at one of those.  Does anyone have a picture of a welded stock auto-adjuster?

A little 316 stainless TIG on both sides .  Bob

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  the guts of my primary consists of a welded stock tensioner, a 32 tooth Game Changer, and one of the initial CompensaVer's, along with an Evo Industries clutch basket, and a Bandit clutch.
  Make sure you scribe the tensioner after you get it set so you have 5/8" cold chain deflection measured at the top of the chain in the center.

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Quote from: Ken R on July 18, 2017, 04:21:55 PM
What's wrong with the stock unit?  The newer ones are more robust than the originals and they don't seem to tend to over-tighten.  My 2010 would flex and then over-tighten as a result.  I put the later Rev unit in and sold the motorcycle at 20,000 miles.  My 2013 has its original tensioner and it seems to be working fine with 40K miles on the clock.

My bike is a 2010. Just had crank serviced by darkhorse. It's perfect and I want to keep it that way. I don't like the idea that it can overtighten.

If it's good enuff for fxdbi and no cents, then it's gettin welded

Thanks for the pictures.  That seems the way to go.

Here's the way to go

Quote from: commander10 on July 19, 2017, 08:07:35 AM
Here's the way to go

Well, since those are my pics and tensioner, I can say that method will work but unlike the softail where adjustments can be made with tensioner in place, the bagger primary is too thick to access the bolt. Tensioner needs to be preset, checked for chain free play and then final bolt on. Stitch weld method is fine too and should down the road a new setting is needed those welds will grind off, slight tap and the joint will free itself.
Ron

What if you used a hex head?

Quote from: jmorton10 on July 18, 2017, 12:14:11 PM

Quote from: hardheaded on July 18, 2017, 11:11:32 AM
baker attitude adjuster and be done with it.

That's what I have in my 124" RK & it has worked fine for 2 years.

~John

X2
Works great

Quote from: koko3052 on July 19, 2017, 03:58:10 PM
What if you used a hex head?

It's tighter then the pic looks. I think I tried the hex but wrenching was a problem. Not impossible but a pain. Settled on a button head.
Ron

I have used the button head on the Softail and it is faster than getting out a welder. You set the adjuster where you want it, mark it, pull it back off, locktite everything and reassemble.
Done. Next time you need to readjust just repeat.

Quote from: Ken R on July 18, 2017, 04:21:55 PM
What's wrong with the stock unit?  The newer ones are more robust than the originals and they don't seem to tend to over-tighten.  My 2010 would flex and then over-tighten as a result.  I put the later Rev unit in and sold the motorcycle at 20,000 miles.  My 2013 has its original tensioner and it seems to be working fine with 40K miles on the clock.

No issues / related issues with the OE Tensioner in the '09 SERG, been flawless for almost 60k miles so far.
Minimal wear, appears to have plenty of service life remaining...

Bringing the drivetrain up to operating temperature before employing any engine braking seems to be the trick to preventing any over-adjusting,,, rev-matching on downshifts doesn't hurt either...