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Inner primary removal question

Started by Leed, February 18, 2017, 11:36:06 AM

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Leed

Hello,

I'm at the point of removing the starter and ran into a seized rear bolt on the starter.   :banghead:  I've got it soaked in PB Blaster but if that doesn't work then I'm off to Lowes for some Dremel cutoff disks.

Is it possible to remove the inner primary with the starter still attached?  That would make life easier to remove that bolt.  It does look like the trans cover will get in the way but I wanted to see if anyone has done it.

Also I notice a wear mark in the primary that aligns with the start gear.  I reinstalled the clutch and don't see anything touching but maybe when the wheel and belt are on?  :scratch:


88b

Doubt you can get it off with the starter on . You don't say what model it on, if it's a Softail that rear bolt is a real pain. I think the manual says to remove the oil tank, ive always managed it by removing the splash guard in front of the rear tyre .

04 SE Deuce

#2
Can't remove the starter with the inner primary the trans case is in the way...loops up and sandwiched in that area.

Might replace the clutch hub bearing and check the chain alignment with the inner primary.  Just for GP check the trans shaft for straight.

Others will comment on the witness marks or do a search,  I've seen it discussed here before.

fbn ent

Check endplay in the mainshaft and put the clutch back on to check for play in the bearing there. What are the mainshaft/clutch hub splines like? Shouldn't be any rubbing on the inner.

Can't get the inner off with the started attached....interference with the transmission housing. You don't have to remove the starter I don't think but you do have to get the bolts out and pull it back a bit.
'02 FLTRI - 103" / '84 FLH - 88"<br />Hinton, Alberta

crazy joe

Might try using some/little heat    Propane or Map gas I think its called
Comes in a yellow  bottle

aussie123

Use this ,,, worked for me in these situations ....

Leed

Cool that's a great idea.  I'll give that a try before cutting the head off.  Thanks!

Quote from: aussie123 on February 18, 2017, 01:58:37 PM
Use this ,,, worked for me in these situations ....

Bikerscum

If you have room to get the tool on, these work great for getting out rounded head screws/bolts... https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Performance-Extractor-8-Piece-1859150/dp/B00LFRUN0O They saved me when I though all was lost.

I think I bought mine at Lowes.

fatboy

Quote from: Leed on February 18, 2017, 02:09:31 PM
Cool that's a great idea.  I'll give that a try before cutting the head off.  Thanks!

Quote from: aussie123 on February 18, 2017, 01:58:37 PM
Use this ,,, worked for me in these situations ....
To access the bolts on the starter, its real easy if you remove wheel and wheel splash shield.
Then remove bolts on the wiring panel and pull it a round like opening a door. Whole
starter is now exposed. Took me along time figure how easy it is too get to the starter bolts.   

04 SE Deuce

After a look I see that on 2007 and later the trans case isn't sandwiched between the starter and inner primary so might be possible to remove with starter...don't know.

Might want to state what year/model to get more accurate replies.

Leed

It's a 2009 EG.  I tried a search for the witness marks but didn't see anything related to that area of the primary.

Going to try the earlier suggestions later and see if I can't get that *&**&& bolt off.

Quote from: 04 SE DEUCE on February 18, 2017, 06:28:33 PM
After a look I see that on 2007 and later the trans case isn't sandwiched between the starter and inner primary so might be possible to remove with starter...don't know.

Might want to state what year/model to get more accurate replies.

No Cents

#11
 from the cam side of the bike...take the next size up torx bit (like was mentioned) and put that on a 12" long extension. Drive the torx bit into the starter bolt using the extension with the bit on it. It doesn't hurt to give it a few good whacks with the hammer once the bit is seated...it usually helps to loosen the stubborn bolt.

The mark on your inner primary is from your tranny shaft flexing in the bearings.

Ray
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

Leed

Had to go to Lowes anyway so I picked up the extractor kit.  One quick burst from my impact wrench and it was out!   :up:
Thank you sir!

Quote from: Rockout Rocker Products on February 18, 2017, 02:19:29 PM
If you have room to get the tool on, these work great for getting out rounded head screws/bolts... https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Performance-Extractor-8-Piece-1859150/dp/B00LFRUN0O They saved me when I though all was lost.

I think I bought mine at Lowes.

Leed

Thanks Ray.  So does that mean I have to get into the tranny too?

The noise is definitely coming from the pulley.  The shaft itself is quiet.  The splines on the main shaft are in good shape but in the clutch they're chewed up on the first 1/4".

I need to get the pulley off but man what size is that nut?


 
Quote from: No Cents on February 19, 2017, 10:51:13 AM
from the cam side of the bike...take the next size up torx bit (like was mentioned) and put that on a 12" long extension. Drive the torx bit into the starter bolt using the extension with the bit on it. It doesn't hurt to give it a few good whacks with the hammer once the bit is seated...it usually helps to loosen the stubborn bolt.

The mark on your inner primary is from your tranny shaft flexing in the bearings.

Ray

Bikerscum

Quote from: Leed on February 19, 2017, 01:19:34 PM
Had to go to Lowes anyway so I picked up the extractor kit.  One quick burst from my impact wrench and it was out!   :up:
Thank you sir!

Quote from: Rockout Rocker Products on February 18, 2017, 02:19:29 PM
If you have room to get the tool on, these work great for getting out rounded head screws/bolts... https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Performance-Extractor-8-Piece-1859150/dp/B00LFRUN0O They saved me when I though all was lost.

I think I bought mine at Lowes.

:up: They really are amazing. The more you'd think they'd slip, the more they bite and pull ONTO the bolt.

lqqk_out

Quote from: Leed on February 19, 2017, 01:33:05 PM
I need to get the pulley off but man what size is that nut?

Since I didn't see that you informed us the type of transmission, I'll assume it's a 6-speed due to the right hand thread.
2-1/4" nut.
http://www.heartlandproducts.net/tc96-mainshaft-sprocket-wrench-dyna-2006/
2011 FLHTCUI, 1993 FLSTF
2014 Aspen Sentry, 2001 Bushtec Turbo-II

No Cents

  The nut is 2 1/4" like stated above.  :up:
If your pulling the tranny pulley off you'll need to pull the race 1st. There is a tool for that also sold by Heartland Products...or if your careful you can take a dremel tool and score the race (front to back) and hit it with a chisel and they will usually pop apart enough so you can just slide it off. You just don't want to go too deep and get into the shaft if you use a dremel tool.
3guyz makes a very nice tranny sprocket locking nut.  :wink:  Once you get that tranny pulley off you need to spin that tranny shaft and check to see if the MDB is good. You'll know when you spin it if it's good or bad. There is a good chance that the grinding noise you are hearing is the MDB. If it is bad...then yes the tranny will have to come apart and you'll need a tool for installing a MDB.

[attach=0]

Ray
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

No Cents

#17
 I made my tool years ago to get that 2 1/4" nut off the tranny pulley.
Mine isn't purdy anymore...but it still does the job.
I took a socket and cut it in half and used some black iron gas pipe for the needed length. Welded a half on each end.
I think I got the socket at Auto Zone...or either Tractor Supply.

Ray

[attach=0]
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

Leed

Thanks Ray!

I'll either have to try making a tool or buying one.  I was really hoping not to have to dig in so far but here I am.

I have a feeling I'll be digging in the trans next once I remove the pulley.  All I can tell you is holding pulley and twisting the shaft it's quiet.  Hold the shaft and twist the pulley and it's noisy.  Also there seems to be a lot of slop rocking the pulley back and forth if it's in gear.

koko3052

"Also there seems to be a lot of slop rocking the pulley back and forth if it's in gear."
Don't be too concerned with that. Try your buddy's bike in first gear & see how far it rocks back & forth, or a new one in the show room. :wink:

fbn ent

This comes in handy too...
[attach=0]
'02 FLTRI - 103" / '84 FLH - 88"<br />Hinton, Alberta

koko3052

Yup, that works great Randy, but if you're cheap....'er handy, just clamp a 1/2 rod between 2 teeth & does the trick. :up:

fbn ent

Never tried it Bill but I bet it does  :up:.
'02 FLTRI - 103" / '84 FLH - 88"<br />Hinton, Alberta

Leed

Quote from: koko3052 on February 20, 2017, 12:43:59 PM
"Also there seems to be a lot of slop rocking the pulley back and forth if it's in gear."
Don't be too concerned with that. Try your buddy's bike in first gear & see how far it rocks back & forth, or a new one in the show room. :wink:

That's great to know.  :up:

No Cents

  Leed...you'll need a good heavy duty impact with some balls to it to get that nut loose on that tranny pulley.
They are on there good.
  Once you got the pulley off...give that tranny shaft a spin and tell us what it sounds like and feels like. It should be smooth and not make any grinding noises.

Ray
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae