HarleyTechTalk

I have been running an Edelbrock performer kit on my TC 95 2001 FLSTF for the last 25,000 miles.  This motor, which consistently made 99/99 SAE (it made 100/101 once but I had to put a jockey whip to it on the dyno, giving new meaning to the term "tank slapper") developed a knocking noise in the bottom end which devolved into a grinding noise before I parked it Wednesday pending teardown.  

The motor as is (was?) consists of:

Edelbrock performer heads
Crane 296 cams with S&S gears (.619 lift, 46' intake close)
Feuling oil pump and tappets
JE forged flat-top pistons
Edelbrock 42MM carb
Cometic .030 head gaskets (quench .037)
CCP 170/175 (approx 7% leakdown)
Pro-pipe with standard baffle and two hose clamps
DTT ignition with custom map

The stethoscope says the noise likely is coming from the counterbalancer assembly.  Before commenting on the longevity of the build, please keep in mind that this motor was ridden extremely hard and serves as a test mule on the dyno for every idea (both good and bad, and there are plenty of bad ones) that crosses my mind.  In its next incarnation, the motor wll be ridden in a conservative and responsible manner.  NOT!!!

So, given the mandatory teardown, I feel like it would be a waste to miss out on an opportunity to increase displacement through stroke.

My present plan is to go with a 4 3/8 flywheel assy, with Wiseco 11.5cc reverse dome pistons, which should combine with the Edelbrock 72cc heads and quench set at .030 to give me a 10.5-1 static compression.

I am looking for ideas regarding the flywheel assy - the SE $699 version is far more sellable to my wife than the forged version.  Let's face it - the stocker flywheel on my bike survived an enormous pounding for 25k miles at essentially 100/100.  Can a "stock" 4 3/8 flywheel last 30k miles given a 110/110 motor ridden within reason?  Also, any other comments/suggestions will be appreciated (or laughed off, if appropriate).

It must be that time of the year. Mine let go last Saturday. Going back with a 4.5 stroke and a Timken bearing upgrade.

What ever ever crank you decide to go with have it welded. for you peace of mind and it will last a lot longer than the 30m miles your after.

Here's a forged crank that only had about 6000 miles before it was at .019 run out, and Falicon put it back just over .001 for 150.00


http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i160/roadglide65/Nacel/Picture115.jpg

Sounds like you know what you are doing but 9 times out of 10, it turns out this noise is as a result of the compensator needing to be tightened.

Let us know what the problem turned out to be.

S&S 43/8 crank. send it to hoban.
your a dealeer so you would get dealer pricing and it is well worth it.
http://www.darkhorsecrankworks.com/
G

Quote from: tomp on July 03, 2009, 08:04:57 PM
Sounds like you know what you are doing but 9 times out of 10, it turns out this noise is as a result of the compensator needing to be tightened.

I hope you are right...(and so does my wife)  but somehow, my luck usually runs along the other 10%.

Let's presume the primary will be removed prior to draining the gas tank.

Mine took out the cam gear. Broke 2 teeth off. I didn't even have to put a dial indicator to check runout i pulled the plugs and spun it over with the cam chest open and i could see it.

true and weld any of the pressed cranks and they should last thousands and thousands of miles.
i have yet to have a rod failure on any welded cranks  I don`t care what power was put to them.

2 days ago, my 100/100+ 95 started knocking and grinding from the bottom as you describe. I just pulled off the primary cover today and found my compensator nut to be loose. Easy fix!  Hopefully yours works out well also.

Hardy- Are you saying that if getting the crank welded, then you do not see a need to go with the more expensive forged crank?

I'm pulling the primary tomorrow AM I'll let you know what I find.

If it's been beat on as hard as you first post says..... I wouldn't bother pulling primary, I would pull the cam cover and check the run out first.... and if it more than .003.... you'll  get to check the compensator nut,when you take it apart for the new or reworked crank.    But that's... JMO

You can yank your own crank, just don't yank mine..    Max

Quote from: tomp on July 03, 2009, 08:04:57 PM
Sounds like you know what you are doing but 9 times out of 10, it turns out this noise is as a result of the compensator needing to be tightened.

Loose compensator usually makes noise when the engine is not under load such as idle or decel.
AP

When the comp. nut on my 05 FLHT got loose ...it made a bad, very loud noise you would not want to drive on...

BTW,

I'd probably stay with the stock stroke and build it to a 107. Already have a low miles 4 incher crank for if I twist the crank on the Road Toad.. Max

Good news and bad news.

Good news was that upon pulling the primary, I found that the compensating sprocket nut was backed out to the primary cover and loose.  That produced the knocking sound.  The grinding sound was likely produced by a piece of the primary chain tensioner shoe, which (coincidently or consequently) broke in two.  Fortunately, the other half of the shoe remained on the assembly, thereby keeping the chain tight enough to prevent further damage.  It appears that a new tensioner shoe and a new primary gasket/inspection cover gasket will be all that is required to get back on the road.

The bad news is that I really wanted to build the 103.  From the input on this discussion, it is safe to conclude that the crank should be trued and welded, regardless of make and stroke selected.  The possbility of an oversquare 107ci is an interesting alternative - given the higher RPM TQ curve of the 296s, it may make sense to keep piston speed down through a shorter stroke.  In any event, I'm starting a piggybank for this project. 

Glad to hear!  Good News,   That saves some $$$,      Hang on to the 296s   as they work well  upto 113  Apllications,

If you want to add about $30-$35 extra to the piggy bank, re-use your gaskets. I have had my primary cover off 3 or 4 times and still on the same gasket. Same with the inspection cover gasket. Never had a problem with leaks.

Check the splines on your rotor before you button it up, it's not uncommon for them to be wobbled out when the comp nut loosens.