HarleyTechTalk

Leaking from the bottom of case. Looks like a stud. Read some other posts about this issue. I believe I'll remove stud, clean and check the threads and reinstall using blue locktite. Is this common. Should I do the ones that aren't leaking yet?You cannot view this attachment.

it looks like that bottom left stud hasn't been fully installed ....

I'd be removing and reinstalling all studs

I would use Loctite 243 as it has more resistance to an oily surface when using it. If you invert the transmission overnight and also clean the threads with brake clean, you should have a pretty clean thread surface.

I have removed them all and will clean and reinstall with loctite. I drained the trans and it's propped up on its side. Any reason not to use the gel loctite? That's what I have on hand.

I should heat the case?

Try double nutting the studs and apply 10 to 15 pounds of torque to remove them. Since the plate was slotted, I would suspect that the studs may have already been loctited before. If light torque doesn't move them, try heating the studs,then apply light removing torque again to see if it frees the loctite. If that doesn't work, then it would be time to heat the case. Alternately rap on the double nuts on the studs with a hammer, then apply torque, back and forth to try to get them to start to move. I have had the best luck by heating the studs.

The studs have been removed. It didn't take much to get them out. I wondered if I had to heat the case reinstalling them.

No need just red loctite 

I wouldn't use red Loctite on that old aluminum transmission case.

Quote from: Ohio HD on July 28, 2024, 07:55:10 PMI wouldn't use red Loctite on that old aluminum transmission case.

Why not Ohio . I used it on my kicker studs also. 

Quote from: JSD on July 28, 2024, 08:02:06 PM

Quote from: Ohio HD on July 28, 2024, 07:55:10 PMI wouldn't use red Loctite on that old aluminum transmission case.

Why not Ohio . I used it on my kicker studs also.

He needs to seal the threads, coating it with red Loctite is asking for trouble. 243 Loctite is the way to go with non pressure sealing and anti vibratory properties. Red likes to pull aluminum threads upon removal.

Ok . If I need to remove with red I heat the stud . Also those studs are  don't need replacing IMO much. 

Quote from: Ohio HD on July 28, 2024, 08:06:07 PM

Quote from: JSD on July 28, 2024, 08:02:06 PM

Quote from: Ohio HD on July 28, 2024, 07:55:10 PMI wouldn't use red Loctite on that old aluminum transmission case.

Why not Ohio . I used it on my kicker studs also.

He needs to seal the threads, coating it with red Loctite is asking for trouble. 243 Loctite is the way to go with non pressure sealing and anti vibratory properties. Red likes to pull aluminum threads upon removal.

I use the blue on every steel to aluminum connection. Only use red on steel to steel application and only when called for in the service manual other wise it still gets a drop of blue and min torque spec. Bob

So what happens if you loctite the nut to the stud . I find the stud comes with the nut out of the alloy housing when removing the nut. Been doing it my and might be wrong in your opinion but been doing pit my way for a long time. When I fit studs to Shovel heads for exhaust I use green 620. Fair enough I would not use red on a 5 or 6 box end cover or primary outer bolts ect . But we are talking about studs . That doesn't see much removal.

I wonder about using 545 hydraulic sealant for an application like this. I have used it on brake, oil and even fuel lines. Haven't seen a problem....... yet.

I used blue. I'll fill with light oil to check for leaks this afternoon. I really think it was more the studs were loose that was the issue. FSG noticed that one was not installed all the way. Actually, all 4 were not fully seated. I think removing the nuts helped to back the studs out a little. Hopefully, the blue prevents this when I reinstall.

I have not been able to run the bike due to inner primary issues, but it's full of fluid and has been sitting for awhile and no sign of any leaks. I've rotated the shaft by hand and with the rear wheel checking chain alignment several times.