HarleyTechTalk

When I did my 124" I had an issue of the Oil filter being to wide. It wouldn't Screw in because it interfered with the Jugs. Not sure if this is a normal issue but the solution I used was a PC Racing Flo filter. I've never been totally comfortable with a mesh filter VS Paper. They have relocation adapters. My question is what material for the lines should I use? I want to use metal lines flared. First is this the best application and second how large inside diameter should the lines be as to not drop pressure but also not increase. What would you do? Thanks

3/8" ID lines should be big enough to prevent restriction. There are passages in the engine much smaller.
There are commercially available units for inspiration.

DK custom makes a nice relocation kit,


https://www.dkcustomproducts.com/cool-n-clean-oil-filter-relocation-kit-for-softail-models-c650.htm

I have been using the Moore Sensible Products relocation kit since 2014.  It mounts under the left rear passenger foot board and uses a tad over 6' of 3/8" rubber hose under the engine and transmission.  For one, it adds a noticeable volume of oil and oil filter change / surviceing is wide open, a real breeze and never a drop of oil on the bike.  I wish I would have done a temp reading before and after but I am sure getting that filter body out from in front of the hot engine dead air and into the air flow has made a big difference in cooling too.

Moore recently had a life change, closed shop and moved.  No word on whether he will reopen but it should answer your oil flow question and some folks have pieced together a kit to make their own.  There's lots of info online with a search including discussions on HTT.  Like many others, I consider the relocation one of the best mods I have done.

Quote from: itsafatboy on February 11, 2025, 03:39:24 PMDK custom makes a nice relocation kit,


https://www.dkcustomproducts.com/cool-n-clean-oil-filter-relocation-kit-for-softail-models-c650.htm

Could this work on bike with ABS and an oil cooler radiator mounted on the left side frame up tube?

Ive looked at DK but really wanted to do it up nice with metal lines. Is there a issue with premature leaks using say 3/8 ID flared connections? I purchased twisted Choppers attachment but was going to make the lines from there to use a paper filter. Under the floorboards is a no go for a FLSTFBS as its already lowered and the lean angle is limited.

Moore sensible I hadn't heard of but am really liking the placement on it. Inspiration indeed. I wonder if they would be willing to sell just the bracket and filter connect or rear only setup?

Perfect! They have a universal bolt on kit real reasonable to. Just have to adapt off that. Trying to keep the front down tube's clear because I know I'm going to either tig up a Turbo or just flip for the Aero next off season. I should of just did it in the beginning and I would be ahead, but knowledge is worth money to.

I have a concern about steel lines if you have a rubber mounted engine. The engine movement may stress the lines if the filter is frame mounted.

QuoteI have been using the Moore Sensible Products relocation kit since 2014.

 Same here for about the same amount of time. No issues yet.

Just ordered the DK one for softail, now im trying to understand AN6 stuff want to use black braded lines and polished AN6 fittings , so is AN6 fuel line same as 3/8" lines

You need AN6 for oil lines.

https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,122761.msg1471687.html#msg1471687


I don't use steel braided or plastic braided line. They're about half the wall thickness as 3/8" transmission cooler line is. They'll dry rot faster from the outside due to being thin. They also can tear or burst easier if they get an impact from debris on the road.

  What Ohio said. 

Here's a good place to apply the KISS method.  using 3/8" transmission cooler lines (bulk) onto barbed fittings using fuel injection line clamps is neat, tidy, and easy to route. You can cover any hidden friction areas with a length of split hose from your bulk supply.  The solid strap of the FI clamps doesn't cut into the rubber lines and the clamping area is wider than most abusive gear clamps. 

If you really wanted the braided look you could buy the braid in a roll that will fit over the transmission oil hose and some clamp covers to suit, no links but I've seen that sort of thing advertised here and there.

Thanks OhioHD AN6 it is then. This is a solid mounted motor or softail. I need to get a good tool setup for AN6 either way for the future. Tell ya what, tools add up quick. I have tha ability to make pretty much anything but the time however is another story. Take for instance just the balancers. Jims has the probably 4-5 different tools to pull bearings, shafts alignment, Each is 100-300. They hold there value though as a used set is maybe 10-20% off. I love this site! The amount of information compiled for those willing to search is unmatched by any other site.  A true gem and worth the donations.

just because ....

well got the DK custom setup , i like the part that mounts the filter has a nice sized fittings , i don't like the part that goes to engine , 1/8" npt and just think it could be less restrictive i know there are smaller holes in engine but i want to have flow , so i got a blox plate for the engine part ya im anal , i would drill the dk but you can't because the hole is so offset it would cut into threads, and i think it gets more blocked by the filter threads when installed oh well blox wasn't that expensive and a nice piece billet, just have to go down from 8an to 6an for the hose 

Pictures? Been looking for the adapter that goes from the motor as the one I have isn't the greatest. Love the mount also. Looking at the blox but wondered if all the adaptersI was looking at woukd one fit HD applications and 2 My application. I can fab up anything I get and tig around to ultimately make anything work but it would be nice to get a good head start or buy something that just bolts up without interference. I have ABS and the Buds oil Cooler so alot going on in a small area. The best would be an adapter that  sends the oil straight out the left side like the original filter. When it starts sending it 90° It ultimately makes me have to undo that angle.

Ok here is what i did on this , the DK customs setup has a nice oil filter mount for the down tube
the BLOX kit universal for cars has a nice mount for the engine case, just needed 2 AN8 to AN6 fittings since i was going with the AN6 lines for mine.

Jegs has some nice black braided lines with fittings on like a 5 foot line, so i will cut it and add the other fittings when i measure it.im just waiting on the 2 an8 to an6 then i will put on bike. 

the BLOX kit has a nice filter mount its just not made for a round down tube if you were to mount say under the bas on rear of bike then a bracket could be made pretty easy , it comes with a L type bracket but would have to be modified, the blox filter plate has the fittings coming strait into the top so if mounting horizontal then it would be good.

now the BLOX is pretty reasonable priced for the universal kit and made from billet CNC parts are nice.

the DK is nice also but spendy and i just didnt like the 1/8npt from the engine plate to filter plate not sure why they didn't do the 3/8npt on engine like they did on the filter plate. and the hole is offset so would be hard to make bigger on your own, im sure 1/8NPT is probably big enough but wanted less restrictive so here are some pics of what i ended up with


 
   

Looks pretty decent to me, should be a good thing 👍

That looks great! Like the black also! Waiting to have everything back together to start buying and get a good idea as to what will or might work. I did notice the 2 1/4 NPT on the left case half by the oil filter reciever. I wondered if I could bypass an adapter and run it straight to a cooler radiator and back in? Haven't seen anyone talk about it or do it so I'm assuming there is a reason.

Quote from: Wookie3011 on March 11, 2025, 04:04:51 AMThat looks great! Like the black also! Waiting to have everything back together to start buying and get a good idea as to what will or might work. I did notice the 2 1/4 NPT on the left case half by the oil filter reciever. I wondered if I could bypass an adapter and run it straight to a cooler radiator and back in? Haven't seen anyone talk about it or do it so I'm assuming there is a reason.

Are you looking at machining holes used to drill case galleries through?

couldnt you go from the engine plate with the 2 fittings in and out to the oil cooler then to the filter plate then back to engine plate, i think thats what the instructions say

so on yours where do you plan to mount the actual oil filter part

Yes, that's what I was looking at and talking about. I still plan on using solid lines like KD wastalking about. Nice and Tidy no Rubber.