HarleyTechTalk

I'm thinking about getting a 2nd bike, and found one that seems reasonable. '07 Road King Classic.....Already has S&S 106" kit (no head work), with S&S 583 East Start cams,T-Max, and V&H True Duels. 16k on bike, 4k on upgrades. 16" apes, chrome, yada, yada, yada. Guy's bottom dollar is $12k. I don't think that's too bad.

My plan would be to dump the T-Max for TTS, and the duels for a Fatcat, or Supermeg. I don't know anything about those cams. So, my post is about the cams and what to do regarding head-work. I already have the 113" Softail, so I'm not going to look for a barn-burner in this one. Just a nice torquey tourer. Should I leave the cams, and just get a nice street port? Should I dump the cams, and go for a little nicer head work? Opinions appreciated, as always.

My guess is the big bore will put the compression in the sky with that short cam. Pinger!

Quote from: Deweysheads on November 26, 2010, 12:34:26 PM
My guess is the big bore will put the compression in the sky with that short cam. Pinger!

Ok Don, so what would you suggest?

Just do a 103" big bore (cast SE pistons) and use a Wood TW555.
Simple and easy as that. With a good tune and pipe it will be a great runner.

It already has the 106" kit and cams installed.  I was just looking to possibly add the head-work and utilize what already exists.

Sure by all means, and then figure out the corrected for cam compression and adjust the chambers to utilize that cam properly. Just finished a set very similar that required 90cc chambers up from 85cc

Quote from: Deweysheads on November 26, 2010, 02:10:32 PM
Sure by all means, and then figure out the corrected for cam compressiona dn adjust the chambers to utilize that cam properly. Just finished a set very similar that required 90cc chambers up from 85cc

That's the information that I was looking for.  As I mentioned, I don't know squat about the 583 cam.  I don't know if they're a low/ mid rpm cam, high end, etc.  I haven't read any posts from guys running them, and if/ how they like them.

The .583 has an intake close of 18°, along with stock heads(85-86cc chamber), assuming flat tops,  would send your cranking compression north of 210psi. ouch.
If the wallet allows, 1 suggestion would be, port the heads, set the heads for 10.0-10.2 static, S&S .570es, pipe, tune, should be a great runner.

Lucky you...

You know you're way around here and you answered your own question in your op. 

Spend some money on the heads (to include compression and squish optimization), get a better pipe, and tune the sh&t out of it. That thing should fly.

Quote from: Deweysheads on November 26, 2010, 01:18:48 PM
Just do a 103" big bore (cast SE pistons) and use a Wood TW555.
Simple and easy as that. With a good tune and pipe it will be a great runner.

We've done a few of these "triple nickels" and they work very well...par for Bobby Wood.
Bob

Quote from: Deye76 on November 26, 2010, 05:11:43 PM
The .583 has an intake close of 18°, along with stock heads(85-86cc chamber), assuming flat tops,  would send your cranking compression north of 210psi. ouch.
If the wallet allows, 1 suggestion would be, port the heads, set the heads for 10.0-10.2 static, S&S .570es, pipe, tune, should be a great runner.

Max

add
Ride it the way it is first, then maybe we can trade.. I take the TDs ( depends one the muffler) , give you a FC with quiet baffles ( will need to buy new ex bracket..) ..

Quote'07 Road King Classic.....Already has S&S 106" kit (no head work), with S&S 583 East Start cams

if those heads are @ 89cc's I would like the 200-205 ccp . 9.6 9.7:1 corrected compression.
like someone said, ride it and see what it feels like Beau. should be a tq. monster if the t-max dosent have it pinging.

Quote. should be a tq. monster if the t-max dosent have it pinging.

And make sure the guy didn't tune to stop the ping by adding fuel..

Also make sure you get the cable with the module..

You can get the SW and manual on line..

Max

QuoteAlso make sure you get the cable with the module..

cable horders....theres got to be a cure

Quotecable horders....theres got to be a cure

Nope but cables are part of the module and should stay with it.. Wouldn't surprise me if the cables are over 20-30 bucks.. Anyone can tune em,,,Heck even Mayor can do it... 

Max

I just built the 106 with 570 ES cams, the kit says comp is 10.2.1 out of the box, had the heads done by Bean, kept the same compression. Did add larger springs to ensure clearance. I am currently using a TMAT but will probably switch to a TTS or SEST. Have a BUB 2-1, first time using enything other than a Fatcat. Pipe sounds okay but keep thinking I might be giving up some low end. It is nice not having the MCR's to deal with, though the cam seems to come on in the mid range. This on my 09 Dyna.

Quote from: Deye76 on November 26, 2010, 05:11:43 PM
The .583 has an intake close of 18°, along with stock heads(85-86cc chamber), assuming flat tops,  would send your cranking compression north of 210psi. ouch.
If the wallet allows, 1 suggestion would be, port the heads, set the heads for 10.0-10.2 static, S&S .570es, pipe, tune, should be a great runner.

Quote from: FLTRI on November 26, 2010, 05:28:48 PM

Quote from: Deweysheads on November 26, 2010, 01:18:48 PM
Just do a 103" big bore (cast SE pistons) and use a Wood TW555.
Simple and easy as that. With a good tune and pipe it will be a great runner.

We've done a few of these "triple nickels" and they work very well...par for Bobby Wood.
Bob

With that CI, good heads, and that 555, the results we've seen here have been very good as well. 110/120 with OE t body, bagger duals and VERY little dyno time.
Scott

Quote from: Hillsidecyclecom on November 28, 2010, 05:06:48 AM
...and VERY little dyno time.
Scott

Scotty,
As you know, the key is not the amount of time spent tuning on a bike it is the base starting calibration and the tuner's experience and ability.

I've redone some bikes the customer says the last tuner? spent days on. With close base mapping most mild build bikes should only take 1-1/2hrs to get right.
Bob

Quote from: FLTRI on November 28, 2010, 02:49:36 PM

Quote from: Hillsidecyclecom on November 28, 2010, 05:06:48 AM
...and VERY little dyno time.
Scott

Scotty,
As you know, the key is not the amount of time spent tuning on a bike it is the base starting calibration and the tuner's experience and ability.

I've redone some bikes the customer says the last tuner? spent days on. With close base mapping most mild build bikes should only take 1-1/2hrs to get right.
Bob

Bob,
I was talking 12 pulls, to include a muffler swap. 
Scott

Thanks for the replies, guys.  Not going to happen......guy sold the bike before I could get over to look at it.