HarleyTechTalk

DEUCE 2000 converted to brembo twin disc front  end has worked out well . brembo master ,stainless bango fittings & braided lines, home made Tee chromed,brembo caliphers, clutch brembo master , braided line,and fittings ,and gear box outer kit, is 30 % better for sure just have to do the SE spring , took more than a few hrs at each conversion, am i happy with it yes , the arlen ness rotors are very good bedding in evenly on both discs with lyndal pads gold , took alot of measure ments to get the spacers right , i have a thunder star wheel 21 inch on the front  feeler gauges worked well to get them even on both sides, one calipher had to be shimmed with stainless washers ,over all not a easy project, but very time consumming on the home work ,thanks to SE 04 Deuce for his help in getting alot of parts for me and sending them to Australia,he has a similar bike and has been great help ,any ways i recommend the conversion to every one,FSG has done one as well , DOT 4 brake fluid a must on my conversion for myself as all of what i used was brembo,are the brembos better than the old system ,yes by far, cheers to all Barny

 


Since you started with a single and went to duals, I expect that is where it helped most.. Did you use HD Brembos or the Ducati / European calipers?  The ain't much difference between the piston  and pad areas on the Brembos and the 2000-7 calipers. You can modify those to get a very nice feel.. Just drop the master piston 1/16 in and so to stainless lines.. Dropping the master gets you more pressure but you feel more flex in the system (less firm). The stainless lines get the firmness back.. I've stopped using Ts and run both line up to the master. While this means more volume of fluid to control it cuts the number of fittings.   I still use dot 5 since I can't keep from spilling brake fluid to safe my life.. 

Max

Barny
Sounds like a great conversion you just done changing to the brembo's, I bet its nice having brakes that work when you grab a handful. Does the hydraulic clutch still drag and cause a clunk going into 1st gear like the cable pull clutch.
I agree with Max we need a pics

  Barny,  Glad I could help.  At least you will not have the piston cleaning maintenance that goes along with keeping the OEM calipers functioning properly.  Brembo's are top drawer. 

  Just don't ask for any toilet parts ours swirl the other way.     Cheers,   Rick

Max i had the early 2000 to 07 twin disc set up . SE, on my bike then changed out to brembos , they are alot better than the early ones by far , the clutch great it still cluncks into 1st but up shifting and down shifting no clunks or restrictions pics max ill try this weekend , cheers Barny

QuoteMax i had the early 2000 to 07 twin disc set up . SE, on my bike then changed out to brembos , they are alot better than the early ones by far ,

Yah, know for me, this goes back to 1/2 turn versus 1 turn on the clutch adjuster.. Using Glide Pro or some other appendage. There is probably a solution that does not require new calipers. The early calipers are fine..  You can tweak the front brake system, to get the desired results.

The Brembo gold calipers do look good tho.. 

Max

Max having trouble posting some pics they are to big , as 560 kb each pic , they want 350 or less to post , not sure how to reduce them , the kids are out lol, Barny

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,157.0.html

Max

Not sure why the boring bar pics are in there but it looks like a nice piece of machinery
I'll let Barny talk about the mods.. Max

Barny how old is that front tyre?

I've a brake/clutch cylinder specialist nearby that does all the fixes for shops & custom guys that can never get MC bore to match Calipers.  He re sleeves MC's and machines pistons & seals, I'll check with him on Monday re reducing a 11/16 to 5/8 or taking a 9/16 out to 5/8.

Your upgrade looks nice.

Thanks max for the pics being reveiwed, as all will see in the pics its  very nice looking   , i do all my own lines , from all stainless bango fittings m10 1.0 for brembo, i fit to the curve of the line which comes rolled up to the line of the travel , swage one end first then fit to bike, turning the others to get rid of any twist ,, the brake tee , i made on the mill then tapped,chromed, in the pics you may see the tacko took 70 hrs to design and make , two welsh plugs top and bottom to hide all wiring and install, made from a copper reducer and straight pipe, then chromed, the front trye is new avon , when i did the conversion i did the wheel, tyre and spacers to suit , as to the boring bar pics, its the greatest bar, repco 100 12 inch stroke with repco stand to suit  ,notice the cylinder is upside down , from start to finish the cylinders dont move in relation to the bar as i take the cutting holder out at the bottom, take three cuts, to 4, take the entire assembly out for honning 280/500 the platau hone , all of 1hr 45 minites plus set up time  for two 30 minutes, i can do 3/4 of a V8 motor in that time so dont let me hear you have been ripped off on a boring job they go for 300$ here in Aus,for two pots 88 to 95 etc, FSG new avon , cheers Barny  re thanks to SE 04

  Looks good Barney.       Rick

Sorry had to modify this reply as I posted in the wrong thread...duh too many windows open for available brain power.

QuoteFSG new avon

hhmmmm  that date code looks like 1708, is that what it is?

I fitted the tryre before the conversion on the alloy rim awaiting for all parts ,taking off the spoke wheel, its a venom avon , only run about 200klm ,as to the date ill have a look , possible it would be around 18 months 2yrs , cheers Barny

FSG by the looks on the masters on the brembos they are diamond cut,5/8 im not saying the 11/16 will not work on brembos but you have to look at the way they are proportioned from 5/8 to the smaller pistons on the 4 spot brembos they are smaller than the other earlier ones , one works out brakes on tonnage per square  inch in the old style thinking  , think brembo have it right on this one though, as it leaves the master as its primary , to the slaves as the slaves being the secondary , caliphers, then it stops, hope that it meets equal pressure on both sides with the brake lines not being a resistance,ive worked on brakes most of my life on the early 4 wheel shoes to the early disc to now , all disc and so on , doesnt matter the system it has to work to proportion front to rear and so on , due to load valves etc , i know whem my brakes may favour one side ? is it a sticky calipher pin? ,i get 7k out of my tyres on rear about 8 on front wont belong before i change the front out again , but do like the Avon , cheers Barny

Quote.... , but do like the Avon , cheers Barny 

  just put an Avon Venom-X,  date code 0811, on a rim for the Dual Fatty

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,42272.msg436959.html#msg436959

Not sure why the boring bar pics are in there but it looks like a nice piece of machinery
I'll let Barny talk about the mods.. Max



900 series Van Norman.

id sent some brake pics   to Max, to see if he could post them for me, as the files were to big,also sent some of my boring bar , he has included these  as well ,yes it is like a van morman 900, repco copied the design, warren and brown, the table also made for it ,i should of set up another post for it ,,cheers Barny

Barny
I just built a 20 ton press and it has nothing on yours. How big ? 50 ton

FSG a few peopl have done what your doing resleeving or boring masters , if you look at the 9/16, 12 mill bango fitting masters the design is different on the end where the bango bolts , the 11/16, 10 mill bango , the must when doing the conversion is making sure the two holes for return of fluid are spot on , as the piston rubber can block it when its installed , or the rod is pressed in to far where the circlip goes ,or if the right locktight isnt used when the sleeve is pressed in there may be leakage between to two fits, ive always brough the right master to suit ,is the 5/8 brembo okay , perfect handle postion ,and handle moves slightly under pressure when applying brakes, fits the old chrome handle bar fittings to, but the master clamp has to be brembo has the holes are different ,wider, plus bangos 10 mill by 1.0 thread , as well as the caliphers 10 by 1.0 , cheers Barny

 question was asked ,I have two presses with different ton jacks , 6 ton, 12 ton, 20 ton 50 ton ,6and  12 fit the small press the 20 and 50 fit the one in the pic , found the 20 ton is to small to easy press ball joints with out heat, 50 its a dream , i made the press to suit both jacks with springs to retract the jack,and its on wheels to , cheers Barny

This is my home made 20 ton press

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

Oz glide im sure you can fit a 50 ton jack in there some how ,seems to be heavy enough for the pressure of 50 ton , might need to sus out one that has similar top and fit in the bottom, squat 50 ton jack two stage if they make one, cheers Barny

Some will wonder why i have my HD cylinders upside down for boring , reason i use a head gasket on the bottom torque plate , this simulates the boring job to whats on the bike , if i do it the other way with head gasket it may impede the bore trueness ,so upside down,is the way i go ,metal against metal with O ring on the bottom , does any one out there agree with this , found that the squish on the torque plate with out the gasket isnt clamping true on the top of the barrel alloy outer and cast inner sleeve, ? may be im right, may be wrong, but i make the boring the same as the bike and  the installation of the cylinders, im on the right track , as to trueness you can tell bye the 1 thou cuts if there has been a problem,are  the rods are true , you can tell if the big ends are gone , the rods are to much to one side ,twisted i mean , it goes on and on , ask what is the motor used for , two up, one rider ,altitude , are you a rev head , or baby it ,race track,etc, makes all the differnce between cast and forged , and clearance between bore and piston ,ive had bikes come in with the odd problem , with a bore gauge i can tell , from 12 oclock thrust side to piston pin at 3 oclock as to what has happened ,asked has the bike been locked up , yes once lol , bore gauge and  boring can  tell it all , crank out of alignment , side steps, the wear pattern , any ways this isnt here to bore you, just letting you know some  do the right thing as to solving first  problems, not just out there for a quick $ being a mechanic ,asking questions, brings you your next job, cheers to all Barny

I've found that the size of the jack is not as important as the stiffness of the frame.. I bought a harbor freight 20 to press 7-8 years ago, and it was a joke.. I later swapped it out for a 15 ton press that is much better.. While the tonnage is less the HF press it weighs about 350 LB compared to about a little over 100 for the 20 ton press. While the press does not have a high speed feature it uses a longer bar get leverage and I use a short bar for high speed plus it has a screw ram. Nice thing about this press is the stiffness and feedback when you are pressing things together..Heaver jack won't get you this.  Makes pressing in a bearing a snap.. They go in nice and straight and you can easily feel when things aren't.. The press has been around for years. It's ~ that's copy of a Japanese press built the the 60s/70s which is a copy of a Drake built in the 40s.. Uses square plates like OZglides but they have slots cot in them so they slide on the table without falling off. It uses cables to raise an lower the table so you don't have to remove the work to adjust the height and and the screw ram also helps with speedy height adjustment.  It also has a pressure gauge, big release valve knob and strong pullup springs..

I was looking at 35 and 50 to presses before I found this one.. It's pretty much an exact copy of the Japanese one we used in a shop back in the early 70s.   

For a bike shop they are perfect.. Unless you plan on doing HD cranks.. Not sure you find any other job close.. Maicos used to be about a 12 ton press fit on the cranks.. most other cranks were about 3-6 tons.

Osglides look pretty go tho.. The ram looks to use a linear bearing to keep the ram straight. One off the features that can keep a bearing going in straight.  Looks to have some good pullback springs.

Max