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Clutch basket

Started by Hooda, January 31, 2013, 05:11:21 PM

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Hooda

Still waiting for an after market alternator rotor for my 1988 sportster. Mine collided with the stator. So I want one with the magnets encapsulated in a steel liner. Problem is no one in the USA has one. Was told they are made over seas , so I have to wait. Does any one know of something different? Also was told that theses after market ones don't put out as much voltage. Anyone heard of this or experienced this?

andyxlh

Hi Hooda,
I don't have one of these, but would like one! The OEM charging system is no firebreather from new so a reduced output is not great, but I'd put up with it for 2 reasons:
1. it would almost certainly be higher than the generator output on the ironheads which ran electric start.
2. the consquences of stator rotor collision is so dire.
saying that, I do believe that the collision is not so much due to the magnets vibrating loose, but more due to an increase in 'slop' of the clutch basket as the clutch splines and the trap door bearing wears, which allows the slightest contact with the stator, tearing the magnets off. Certainly I'd go with the encapsulated one, but this alone on a set of worn splines and bearing will not solve the problem and as they are alloy they do wear, mine were really bad after about 120,000km.
probably the ultimate fix would be the zippers trapdoor with the double row bearing, as well as a new clutch hub and shaft. I did the hub and shaft alone, and it made a HUGE difference to the free play of the basket. Also fitted a auto primary tensioner too.
I had a new OEM basket on the shelf so was not keen on shelling out hundreds on an encapsuated one, so i filled the gaps in between the magnets with JB weld (after degreasing the lot) and this has so far held up very well (still on my web site I believe) So you could go down this route of there's no joy with the aftermarket item.
cheers
Andy
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a roll of Duck tape then you're in trouble

Hooda

Thanks. Like I stated on an earlier post I only had 200 miles on a rebuild engine when this happened. The cases were aftermarket from STD they came with an extra thick trap door with new bearing so that part should be ok. But the clutch shaft was out of the original tranny so it could have worn splines, and the clutch hub I think was new when we did the rebuild. If the splines are worn will it be noticible, because the splines on the clutch shaft dont look bad.

andyxlh

oh yes of course forgot you did say. The clutch shaft and hub are a 'wearing pair' so you might find that replacing one is only a very short term fix. you can just throw the old basket back together with the hub and plates and put it on the clutch shaft with no primary chain. give it a wobble - you will get a good idea of the problem if you have one. Unfortunately the tiniest bit of wear on the splines causes a very large amount of 'looseness' on the shaft. as you mate the shaft and hub together you can see if there is any wear where the fine teeth meet.
cheers
Andy
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a roll of Duck tape then you're in trouble

PC_Hater

http://www.cycleelectricinc.com
alternator kit CE-19S fits late 84 to 90 Sportster, 12 Amps at 1000rpm, 19 Amps @ 2500rpm
Stator only is CE-8590, rotor only is CE-8400, regulator only is CE-205
You might have to contact them to find a supplier, they don't sell direct but they do sell good stuff, I have their alternator and regulator on my FL.
1942 WLA45 chop, 1999 FLTR(not I), 2000 1200S

Hooda

Went out today and put hub back in clutch basket and slid back on clutch shaft. You were right I had a lot of wobble . Got new shaft, hub, and bearing coming. Still might hold out for the aftermarket rotor , but if I do go with the stock one it should ok for a lot of miles since all will be new. Thanks for input.

andyxlh

That's kinda where i'm at. Please post when you find a new rotor so i know where to get one too.
Gotta get a hub and shaft for the shelf in the shed, I reckon they last about 80,000 miles or so.
bearings are standard - i got mine from the local place a lot cheaper than HD. They have a unique number on the outer race. Can't remember which brand I got, but apparently it was 'one up' on the one which was in there (which they also had) in terms of loading and max rpm.
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a roll of Duck tape then you're in trouble

Hooda

Thank you Andy, as soon as I know where to get one I will post it.